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Discussion Starter #22
No problem fellas

Screech's thread actually had everything listed in it already too lol

Fack it, more knowledge the better.
 

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Kdes how much quantity did u end up using? Are u running your rear lines back through the firewall and under or inside the cabin exiting through the floor board?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hey, sorry for the late reply.

Quantity used is solely up to you, it really depends on how you plan on routing them. I wouldnt want to give you a number and you end up having less than more.

In my EK, i didnt do a brake tuck, however, I recently helped out a friend with theirs.

The rear lines are personal preference, my friend i helped opted to have them exit through the exhaust tunnel and connect the new lines to the existing lines from there. here are some pics








 

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Discussion Starter #32
Wow, nice thread. All the little bits of hardware needed in one spot
Great write up. Thanks for taking out the time and helping others! God bless ya

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
no problem fellas

if i do any more future brake lines and come across something not mentioned, i'll make sure to post in here

puke :megusta:

joo da man

:up:
 

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THATOTHERSMAYLIVE
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i have an eg and ek prop valve, will either work great in the ej8? i'm really wanting to use the eg one, if it poses no issuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
i have an eg and ek prop valve, will either work great in the ej8? i'm really wanting to use the eg one, if it poses no issuses.
hey, i'd personally stick with the EK prop valve. The EM1 and EK hatchbacks are the same PV. if it's what came with your, use it. Personally i've never used an EG PV or seen/heard of someone using it in a different chassis

Looks sick.
the car its in is coming along beautifully, linked above my post.
 

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THATOTHERSMAYLIVE
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hey, i'd personally stick with the EK prop valve. The EM1 and EK hatchbacks are the same PV. if it's what came with your, use it. Personally i've never used an EG PV or seen/heard of someone using it in a different chassis



Thanks for the help man..
 

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I know this is an old thread but just to clarify some things

First of all the summit 37 degree flare tool is junk , Any ridgid or imperial flare tools will do the job right the first time without too much material being wasted because of shitty flares.

Second , it doesnt really matter which prop valve you use. I have both a em1 and a 91 DA and its mounted on a 00 ej8 with "big brakes" and track abused lol
 

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http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110543

shows detailed pics of my brake tuck
i can give anyone a run down of every fitting i have on my style if needed.
and could even purchase and ship as a kit as i get an excellent deal on the supplies

as for tools i used to do so everything is eastwood
the flaring tool costs a little over $200 but is well worth it especially when doing alot of this type of work.

can be found here:
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

gives perfect oem flares in less than 30 seconds doesn't leave any marks on sides of lines from crimping all around perfect tool a must have!

with mine all the supplies i used were converted to -3 with all tubenuts and sleeves rather than standard brake fittings

x4 straight -3 bulkheads with nuts
2 of them for master cylinder in bay through firewall
2 of them for fender wells from front calipers into cabin

x2 90 degree bulkheads with nuts
2 of them for rear lines to come up firewall and into cabin

x2 -3 male to -3 male unions to convert rear lines underneath the car so i could run stainless lines into the bay this step is personal preference

x24 total -3 tube nuts and sleeves
4 total 2 for each fender well
2 for rear lines at union
2 for rear lines in bay to the 90 bulkheads
4 total for brake master cylinder lines to firewall bulkheads
2 for inside cabin from fender wells
4 inside from both sets of firewall bulkheads
6 for all ports on proportion valve

x10 10x1.0 to -3 male to male conversion

x25 feet total of line (roughly)

i did stainless in the bay but all the others are copper lines much easier to work with and won't be seen,as far as bending flaring would be nearly impossible on stainless without the eastwood tool



i opted to use a 4040 prop valve from a 99 civic si
as they are flat and there isn't much clearance under integra hvac boxes
as i'm gonna be running heat and blower with my setup
this is the diagram of the lines to prop valve taken from alldatapro

if anybody has any questions about this stuff hit me up i've done several of them and have quite alot of pics of the processes


hope this is of some help to you guys
 
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