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EG/DC Prop Valve: Proper Brake Line Routing (Brake Tuck)
5
Question to anyone with an EG/DC chassis.
Currently doing a brake line tuck in an EG Chassis.
I'd like to know whether or not it matters how the brake lines are routed to the prop valve.
If you look at this pic below, it is routed one way (OEM I believe)
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However, I went ahead and did some more research and noticed these are routed differently then above
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My main concern are the four (4) lines coming into the prop valve. Two from the BMC and the two that go to the R/L brakes. Just want to make sure they can be routed either way or if it has to be done the same as OEM
Currently doing a brake line tuck in an EG Chassis.
I'd like to know whether or not it matters how the brake lines are routed to the prop valve.
If you look at this pic below, it is routed one way (OEM I believe)
However, I went ahead and did some more research and noticed these are routed differently then above
My main concern are the four (4) lines coming into the prop valve. Two from the BMC and the two that go to the R/L brakes. Just want to make sure they can be routed either way or if it has to be done the same as OEM
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kev someone asked me about where the lines went and such so here is an illustration. Just if someone else had the question of how does the factory have them.... or least thats how it was on the hatch and verified with the teg prop valve.
![]()
ok I am going back to lurking.
ok I am going back to lurking.
This is how i have mine routed. That is the oem routing :up:kev someone asked me about where the lines went and such so here is an illustration. Just if someone else had the question of how does the factory have them.... or least thats how it was on the hatch and verified with the teg prop valve.
![]()
ok I am going back to lurking.
screech!!!!kev someone asked me about where the lines went and such so here is an illustration. Just if someone else had the question of how does the factory have them.... or least thats how it was on the hatch and verified with the teg prop valve.
![]()
ok I am going back to lurking.
you're the man bro :worship: thanks
15
June, no prob
1. Flare Tool
you can use either a bubble flare kit or a single flare (AN) kit, depends on what fittings you use
Double Flare Kit
Single Flare Kit (37* AN)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/?rtype=10
2. Tubing
3/16" tubing is what is to be used.
You can purchase them as straight line locally at your Autozone, NAPA, etc.
Can also be purchased as a 25ft or 50ft coil, depending on how much you need.
Coiled - Can be easily bent by hand however, the finishing product isnt beautiful as the lines do not easily straighten
Straight - recommended, as these allow for some nice bends.
3. Fittings
a. Inverted Flare Fittings - Used for the double flare kit. If you're on a budget and cant afford the AN fittings and would rather pick it up locally, best option to go with. They arent pretty but are similar/same to OEM
Note: These are meant for the BMC and Prop valve. if you plan on going through any part of your chassis, i recommed using bulkhead fittings with the required -an tube nuts and sleeves I listed below.
You can drill through and run the tubing as is, but this will be difficult. TRUST ME.
b. AN Fittings - You will need the following
3an Tube Nut
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220333-6B/?rtype=10
3an Tube Sleeve
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220334-6B/?rtype=10
Metric Adapter Fitting - 3an to M10x1.0
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-641431/?rtype=10
3an Banjo Fitting (BMC)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R4047C/?rtype=10
M10x1.0 banjo bolt
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R40506/?rtype=10
3an Bulkhead Fitting, Straight
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-661161/?rtype=10
3an Bulkhead Fitting, 90*
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-661231/
3an Bulkhead Nut
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-492403-BL/?rtype=10
PLEASE NOTE:
I did not list a quantity required for each fitting. This DEPENDS on you, the user/installer and how you prefer your lines to be routed.
4. Tools
a. Bending Tool
Tube bender you decide to use can allow for large radii or small radii bends.
I went to Harbor Freight and picked up this bad boy. This allowed for small bends in which I prefered.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-4-quarter-inch-tube-bender-94571.html
b. tube cutter
You can use the mini, which i preffered
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-1-8-eighth-inch-tubing-cutter-92878.html
or the normal type
http://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-cutter-40913.html
c. For double flare fitting, recommend using a flare nut wrench.
10-12mm to be exact
manufacturers i used in this example are subject to who you prefer. Can range from Fragola to Earl's to Aeroquip. Really depends on you.
Please let me know if there is anything else you guys would like to know or think I forgot to mention.
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