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P.M.W./A.W.S.
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Discussion Starter #1
Question to anyone with an EG/DC chassis.

Currently doing a brake line tuck in an EG Chassis.

I'd like to know whether or not it matters how the brake lines are routed to the prop valve.

If you look at this pic below, it is routed one way (OEM I believe)



However, I went ahead and did some more research and noticed these are routed differently then above









My main concern are the four (4) lines coming into the prop valve. Two from the BMC and the two that go to the R/L brakes. Just want to make sure they can be routed either way or if it has to be done the same as OEM
 

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P.M.W./A.W.S.
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Discussion Starter #3
homework? eff that :fdat:

trying to make sure this thing is routed correctly before the dash goes on. Not dealing with this again. once its done, I hope its done
 

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P.M.W./A.W.S.
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Discussion Starter #5
I was thinking the same.

The lines are 90% completed, one more to go. But I have them routed differently then OEM. They're routed like the last three pictures above.

Looks like honda-tech it is, just to get confirmation.

Thanks
 

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duct tape and zip ties
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kev someone asked me about where the lines went and such so here is an illustration. Just if someone else had the question of how does the factory have them.... or least thats how it was on the hatch and verified with the teg prop valve.



ok I am going back to lurking.
 

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Premium Member
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Kev great topic of discussion. I will be doing my brake tuck soon. Can you post up what tools you used? Also how you routed each line? Trying to have a open discussion here rather than over on h-t or nwp.
 

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kev someone asked me about where the lines went and such so here is an illustration. Just if someone else had the question of how does the factory have them.... or least thats how it was on the hatch and verified with the teg prop valve.



ok I am going back to lurking.
This is how i have mine routed. That is the oem routing :up:
 

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duct tape and zip ties
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I did mine as oem as well. But I don't think it matters as long as you have the front going to the front and rear going rear. Left or right shouldn't matter since you are applying the same pressure to each wheel but front to rear is different.
your right chris.
 

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P.M.W./A.W.S.
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Discussion Starter #16
kev someone asked me about where the lines went and such so here is an illustration. Just if someone else had the question of how does the factory have them.... or least thats how it was on the hatch and verified with the teg prop valve.



ok I am going back to lurking.
screech!!!!

you're the man bro :worship: thanks
 

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P.M.W./A.W.S.
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Kev great topic of discussion. I will be doing my brake tuck soon. Can you post up what tools you used? Also how you routed each line? Trying to have a open discussion here rather than over on h-t or nwp.
June, no prob

1. Flare Tool

you can use either a bubble flare kit or a single flare (AN) kit, depends on what fittings you use

Double Flare Kit



Single Flare Kit (37* AN)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/?rtype=10



2. Tubing

3/16" tubing is what is to be used.

You can purchase them as straight line locally at your Autozone, NAPA, etc.

Can also be purchased as a 25ft or 50ft coil, depending on how much you need.

Coiled - Can be easily bent by hand however, the finishing product isnt beautiful as the lines do not easily straighten

Straight - recommended, as these allow for some nice bends.

3. Fittings

a. Inverted Flare Fittings - Used for the double flare kit. If you're on a budget and cant afford the AN fittings and would rather pick it up locally, best option to go with. They arent pretty but are similar/same to OEM

Note: These are meant for the BMC and Prop valve. if you plan on going through any part of your chassis, i recommed using bulkhead fittings with the required -an tube nuts and sleeves I listed below.

You can drill through and run the tubing as is, but this will be difficult. TRUST ME.



b. AN Fittings - You will need the following

3an Tube Nut
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220333-6B/?rtype=10


3an Tube Sleeve
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220334-6B/?rtype=10


Metric Adapter Fitting - 3an to M10x1.0
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-641431/?rtype=10


3an Banjo Fitting (BMC)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R4047C/?rtype=10


M10x1.0 banjo bolt
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R40506/?rtype=10


3an Bulkhead Fitting, Straight
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-661161/?rtype=10


3an Bulkhead Fitting, 90*
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-661231/


3an Bulkhead Nut
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-492403-BL/?rtype=10


PLEASE NOTE:
I did not list a quantity required for each fitting. This DEPENDS on you, the user/installer and how you prefer your lines to be routed.

4. Tools

a. Bending Tool

Tube bender you decide to use can allow for large radii or small radii bends.

I went to Harbor Freight and picked up this bad boy. This allowed for small bends in which I prefered.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-4-quarter-inch-tube-bender-94571.html


b. tube cutter

You can use the mini, which i preffered
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-1-8-eighth-inch-tubing-cutter-92878.html


or the normal type
http://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-cutter-40913.html



c. For double flare fitting, recommend using a flare nut wrench.

10-12mm to be exact






manufacturers i used in this example are subject to who you prefer. Can range from Fragola to Earl's to Aeroquip. Really depends on you.

Please let me know if there is anything else you guys would like to know or think I forgot to mention.
 
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