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also dont forget to grab some scrap material to mock up your lines. i just used old coat hangers lol.
 

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What kind of flare is needed to go from 3/16 hard line to AN fitting?

What kind of flare is needed for the prop valve from the oem 3/16 hard line?
 

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What kind of flare is needed to go from 3/16 hard line to AN fitting?

What kind of flare is needed for the prop valve from the oem 3/16 hard line?
flare from 3/16 hard line to an fitting would require a 37 degree single flare with a tube nut/sleeve

flare on the prop valve requires an inverted 45 degree flare. or i use adapters that convert from 10x1.0 inverted flare to -3

if interested in any brake fittings i stock all of them and have everything you will need can make it as plug and play as possible.

if interested shoot me a pm.
 

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What kind of flare is needed to go from 3/16 hard line to AN fitting? single 37 degree flare to -an fittings

What kind of flare is needed for the prop valve from the oem 3/16 hard line?double 45 degree flare for oem lines
opps looks like someone already answered your question. but there you go
 

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im not interested in tucking anything. i want to redo my fuel hard lines (5/16 hard line to 6 AN) and redo a brake line (3/16 hard line) from the prop valve to the brake MC.

is there a tool that allows you to flare both 37 degree and 45 degree that you guys would recommend?
 

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im not interested in tucking anything. i want to redo my fuel hard lines (5/16 hard line to 6 AN) and redo a brake line (3/16 hard line) from the prop valve to the brake MC.

is there a tool that allows you to flare both 37 degree and 45 degree that you guys would recommend?
there is no 45 one. they are all 37 degrees. I asked the same question when I did the teal hatch bay.
 

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Just another area to place a prop valve at.


s2k brake master cylinder assembly. fittings route under the wiper motor, and to the prop valve.

:up:
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Just another area to place a prop valve at.


s2k brake master cylinder assembly. fittings route under the wiper motor, and to the prop valve.

:up:
your work screech?

Different but it seems like it would be more of a pain routing the lines to the rear wheels if the proportioning valve was under the cowl.
when there's a will, there's a way :eek:j:
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Here's a link to El father's old build thread

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32840

I then realized you were probably talking about using hard lines, as he used SS braided lines instead.

I'll take a look to see elsewhere, pretty sure this set up has been before however with someone keeping the wiper blades im not sure of
 

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Different but it seems like it would be more of a pain routing the lines to the rear wheels if the proportioning valve was under the cowl.
Not a pain really. Just went through exhaust tunnel, behind subframe, up through cabin and to the cowl.
Wiper motors work too, I secured the lines down to the bottom of the cowl area. :up:

kdes, yeah me and a friend did it. Friend has more patience and better tools for flaring.
 

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Not a pain really. Just went through exhaust tunnel, behind subframe, up through cabin and to the cowl.
Wiper motors work too, I secured the lines down to the bottom of the cowl area. :up:

kdes, yeah me and a friend did it. Friend has more patience and better tools for flaring.
Cool, good info man thanks :up:
 
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