I see you're doing your homework.

 

homework? eff that :fdat:

trying to make sure this thing is routed correctly before the dash goes on. Not dealing with this again. once its done, I hope its done

 

I would just stick with running the lines the same as they route through the prop valve from the factory. Im sure there's a reason for it

 

I was thinking the same.

The lines are 90% completed, one more to go. But I have them routed differently then OEM. They're routed like the last three pictures above.

Looks like honda-tech it is, just to get confirmation.

Thanks

 

kev someone asked me about where the lines went and such so here is an illustration. Just if someone else had the question of how does the factory have them.... or least thats how it was on the hatch and verified with the teg prop valve.

ok I am going back to lurking.

 

This is how i have mine routed. That is the oem routing :up:

 

Kev great topic of discussion. I will be doing my brake tuck soon. Can you post up what tools you used? Also how you routed each line? Trying to have a open discussion here rather than over on h-t or nwp.

 

June, no prob

1. Flare Tool

you can use either a bubble flare kit or a single flare (AN) kit, depends on what fittings you use

Double Flare Kit

Single Flare Kit (37* AN)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/?rtype=10

2. Tubing

3/16" tubing is what is to be used.

You can purchase them as straight line locally at your Autozone, NAPA, etc.

Can also be purchased as a 25ft or 50ft coil, depending on how much you need.

Coiled - Can be easily bent by hand however, the finishing product isnt beautiful as the lines do not easily straighten

Straight - recommended, as these allow for some nice bends.

3. Fittings

a. Inverted Flare Fittings - Used for the double flare kit. If you're on a budget and cant afford the AN fittings and would rather pick it up locally, best option to go with. They arent pretty but are similar/same to OEM

Note: These are meant for the BMC and Prop valve. if you plan on going through any part of your chassis, i recommed using bulkhead fittings with the required -an tube nuts and sleeves I listed below.

You can drill through and run the tubing as is, but this will be difficult. TRUST ME.

b. AN Fittings - You will need the following

3an Tube Nut
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220333-6B/?rtype=10

3an Tube Sleeve
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220334-6B/?rtype=10

Metric Adapter Fitting - 3an to M10x1.0
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-641431/?rtype=10

3an Banjo Fitting (BMC)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R4047C/?rtype=10

M10x1.0 banjo bolt
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R40506/?rtype=10

3an Bulkhead Fitting, Straight
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-661161/?rtype=10

3an Bulkhead Fitting, 90*
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-661231/

3an Bulkhead Nut
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-492403-BL/?rtype=10

PLEASE NOTE:
I did not list a quantity required for each fitting. This DEPENDS on you, the user/installer and how you prefer your lines to be routed.

4. Tools

a. Bending Tool

Tube bender you decide to use can allow for large radii or small radii bends.

I went to Harbor Freight and picked up this bad boy. This allowed for small bends in which I prefered.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-4-quarter-inch-tube-bender-94571.html

b. tube cutter

You can use the mini, which i preffered
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-1-8-eighth-inch-tubing-cutter-92878.html

or the normal type
http://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-cutter-40913.html

c. For double flare fitting, recommend using a flare nut wrench.

10-12mm to be exact

manufacturers i used in this example are subject to who you prefer. Can range from Fragola to Earl's to Aeroquip. Really depends on you.

Please let me know if there is anything else you guys would like to know or think I forgot to mention.

 

Just dont be a retard like I did and put the lines so damn close to the pedal assembly.
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88466

 

LOL, I did this on my first one as well

 

does anyone hav the routing for the EK prop valve?

 

ek is a 50/50 would it matter how you do it?

 

I did mine as oem as well. But I don't think it matters as long as you have the front going to the front and rear going rear. Left or right shouldn't matter since you are applying the same pressure to each wheel but front to rear is different.

 

your right chris.

 

Lol

 

Kev... how would you like clean up my brake and fuel set ups :silly::heart:

seriously tho lol

 

Thanks Kev! :up:

 

kdes :up:

 

No problem fellas

Screech's thread actually had everything listed in it already too lol

Fack it, more knowledge the better.

 

Great write up. Thanks for taking out the time and helping others! God bless ya

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

 

I wish I had that bender when I was doing my lines, I had to use some of the OEM lines that had the 180degree bends. My tube bender was kinking the line. :-(

 

good post

 

Kdes how much quantity did u end up using? Are u running your rear lines back through the firewall and under or inside the cabin exiting through the floor board?

 

Hey, sorry for the late reply.

Quantity used is solely up to you, it really depends on how you plan on routing them. I wouldnt want to give you a number and you end up having less than more.

In my EK, i didnt do a brake tuck, however, I recently helped out a friend with theirs.

The rear lines are personal preference, my friend i helped opted to have them exit through the exhaust tunnel and connect the new lines to the existing lines from there. here are some pics

 

:notbad::devil:mg:

 

:hugs:

 

Wow, nice thread. All the little bits of hardware needed in one spot

 

Great write up. Thanks for taking out the time and helping others! God bless ya

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

no problem fellas

if i do any more future brake lines and come across something not mentioned, i'll make sure to post in here

Added to DIY|FAQ
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?p=603902#post603902

puke :megusta:

joo da man

:up:

 

Added to DIY|FAQ
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?p=603902#post603902

:up:

 

Looks sick.

 

i have an eg and ek prop valve, will either work great in the ej8? i'm really wanting to use the eg one, if it poses no issuses.

 

hey, i'd personally stick with the EK prop valve. The EM1 and EK hatchbacks are the same PV. if it's what came with your, use it. Personally i've never used an EG PV or seen/heard of someone using it in a different chassis

Looks sick.

the car its in is coming along beautifully, linked above my post.

 

Brake lines came from this build

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92731

opcorn: