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Old 03-14-2011, 11:06 AM   #1
screech
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Default brake tuck?

I must see something before I put it together, so I made this diagram.
Is this correct?
following advise from here: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2103425

It was old as dirt though, and I got sick of reading what is the part number for my... I really have read over and over and didnt see the perfect answer.
Eventually I will update this first post with what parts and part numbers, similar to the infamous parts swap thread frost had listed many moons ago.

All fittings are going to be steel or stainless steel. and the flares are 37 degrees before someone chimes in saying that it must be different- shut up.



the 12 x 1mm I know my master cylinder has a fitting that is just retarded larger than the others. 12x1mm is the size for the 1" master cylinders from what I read. "normally" you will have all 10x1mm fittings on the master cylinder.
A picture of a picture, I will not figure out my scanner to save my life. I nearly threw the printer out the window a couple days ago printing insurance cards.

If anyone has a way to save some bucks on the fittings hit it up.

For Quick stop shop for the fittings-
Quote:
Originally Posted by hawaiiteg View Post
if you are looking to buy all the fittings you need for the tuck here it is

http://downstarinc.com/Shop/index.ph...d&productId=54

all you need to buy is the brake lines i got 25ft of line at pepboys for 17bucks i did the full brake tuck for under 200 bucks
Price from Downstairinc.com is 140 for there v.1. and 150 for v.2.
found this off nwp
http://forums.nwp4life.com/zerothread?cmdrint&id=5244 it is the downstairinc.com explaniation of everything's placement, Which I believe is exactly what I have in the diagram besides the rear 1" master cylinder is a 12x1.0mm thread.


1=oem master cylinder front outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

2=oem master cylinder rear outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

3=engine bay to cabin front (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 straight bulkhead)

4=engine bay to cabin rear (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 straight bulkhead)

5rop valve front inlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

6rop valve rear inlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

7rop valve front left outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

8rop valve front right outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

9rop valve rear left outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

10rop valve rear right outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

11=engine bay to cabin rear left* (-3 tube nut/sleeve, 90 degree bulkhead)

12=engine bay to cabin rear right* (-3 tube nut/sleeve, 90 degree bulkhead)

13=cabin to front rear wheel well (-3 tube nut/sleeve, straight bulkhead)

14=cabin to front left wheel well (-3 tube nut/sleeve, straight bulkhead)

15=wheel well to front left oem line to caliper (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

16=wheel well to front right oem line to caliper (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)

FOR BRAIDED INTERIOR LINES OR WHATEVER....
-3AN HOSE
-3AN FITTINGS STAINLESS STAINLESS STEEL
-3AN FITTINGS STEEL


determine the area of cabin entrance for your fittings for the rear and the master cylinder lines.
drilling two holes large enough for your chosen bulkhead fittings (3an both sides with bulkhead nuts) ensure your bulkhead fittings are able to go through the hole. cant remember the side want to say somewhere in the 3/8-7/16" drill size. I just kinda eye balled and said ok lets do this. pilot hole first.
on the cabin side there is the chassis harness, I took my srs box and lifted the plastic out the way. thought enough, but still snagged it once. I see a few wires cut looks like I will have to remove the plastic liner and repair the wires. not a big deal since I want to remove the original wiring harness for the ecu leaving the 4 wires required for the conversion. -fuel, ecu, mil, and whatever other one there is think alternator charge light.
place the bulkhead fittings through.

place tap on the firewall over the fittings to hold them in place so you can just fingure it on. no need to tighten yet.
I took stiff house electrical wiring straightened a piece out, and routed the master cylinder to bulkhead fitting to my liking.
take the stiff wiring, grab your bending tool and brake line. bend to how you bent the electrical wiring. check each bend to fitment.
ta-da! mutha flucker you just got half part done.
The rear brake lines, cut to right below the fittings, its ok if your a little off they are giving. cut mine with a dremel cut off wheel.
next take your 3an sleeve and fitting place the fitting then the sleeve on the line.
double flare is easy- I had a retard moment and google it up: http://www.ehow.com/how_5002780_use-...ring-tool.html
double flare your fitting/ sleeve side
take your original master cylinder fitting, place on your new line with threads to the end. and double flare.
do the same for both master cylinder lines.
for the rears, I have bad knees, bad back, took me a little while between stretching but place the 3an sleeve and fittings on and double flare the rear brake lines.


just lightly install your brake lines on the bulkhead fittings for now. I just mock up everything so in the final step I place tephlon on all my fittings and tighten.
mock up the proportioning valve where you want to place it and....
I decided on placing the proportioining valve where the srs box normally sits. yerp I took out the spot welded in thing it sits on as well. for 2 reasons, so the valve can sit there, and also to just create a more open space feel if someone looks there.

I had to get some wire for this step though.
1" bend out from the firewall, then part that goes into the valve is about a 30 or 40 degree angle into the fittings.
I have wire mocked up for the rear lines, but dremel broke and couldnt cut anymore brake line. Will be doing that at work tomorrow.
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:48 AM   #2
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Default Re: brake tuck?

schreecho u are truly a artist
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:50 AM   #3
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Default Re: brake tuck?

I try paul. I can stick figure the shit out someone.
so guess the link of how to double flare is no longer good, here is my how to I suppose
in the double flare tool kit there are little adapters, size of line will determine your adapter size. in this case its 3/16 line so the 3/16 adapter is used.
put the line through the flaring tool, push it up high enough to be even with the adapter as such

place the dingy of the adapter in the line, clamp it down with the... thingy. go 1/4 of a turn tightening, 1/8 of a turn loose, this helps in creating a even flare and will not let the line crack. though cracking is more seen in aluminum lines.

you end up with this once adapter is removed

then clamp it with the clamp thingy, just to tighten and flare it

and you get this
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:29 PM   #4
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Default Re: brake tuck?

if you are looking to buy all the fittings you need for the tuck here it is

http://downstarinc.com/Shop/index.ph...d&productId=54

all you need to buy is the brake lines i got 25ft of line at pepboys for 17bucks i did the full brake tuck for under 200 bucks
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:41 PM   #5
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Default Re: brake tuck?

yeah, I mean I even thought about it more, and one could cut the cost more by using the stock fittings off the master cylinder, then use stock fittings on the proportioning valve.
I am shooting for 60 bucks, earlier I was like everyone says you have to use this to this, and I really wanted to, but in the end. It will look just fine to me to not have $15/ piece fittings.
Thanks for the link I will throw that on the first post.
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:49 PM   #6
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Default Re: brake tuck?

I checked at pep boys about 3 months ago when I re did the clutch line and they had 3 feet sections no longer.
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Old 03-14-2011, 08:29 PM   #7
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Default Re: brake tuck?

Get some wire hangers and get the shape you want first before doing this, is your motor out or still installed?
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:51 AM   #8
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Default Re: brake tuck?

motor is out... again. 3rd swap in 4 months hopefully the last for a while.
I was thinking of hangers earlier, then I have seen people use other wires, got me thinking about using some mig wire.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:44 AM   #9
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Default Re: brake tuck?

i have used oxy wire....worked great....
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:33 AM   #10
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Default Re: brake tuck?

What car you have?
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:09 PM   #11
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Default Re: brake tuck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidk20ek4 View Post
i have used oxy wire....worked great....
word, I have no clue what that is, but google is my friend.

I have a fox body.
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:13 PM   #12
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Default Re: brake tuck?

david, got ya. oxy wire same as mig wire from what I can tell according to google images.
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:52 PM   #13
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Default Re: brake tuck?

Yes sir same thing....it deff would be easier with a coat hanger....but whatever u have is key
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:27 PM   #14
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Default Re: brake tuck?

no pics or updates
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:34 AM   #15
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Default Re: brake tuck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinki07 View Post
no pics or updates
budddyyy
I am reusing the master cylinder fittings, and proprotioning valve fittings. got 25 feet of 3/16" stainless line,
4 3an straight through 3an bulkhead fittings, 2 90 degree bulkhead fittings
16 or so 3an tube sleeves and nuts. I been fixing my time towards the wiring, and engine for a bit.
I am contemplating where to run the lines through the firewall at as well.
when I get at it I will hook up the pics broseph
edit I am at 50 bucks. stainless fittings, sleeves and tube nuts.
the only double flare tool is a 45 degree, when you compress the line onto the fitting it will create a 37 degree flare. I searched with the hydraulic guys for an hour before calling up a older wiser knowledgeable shop owner and asking why there is only a 45 degree double flare tool kit we could find and explained it to me as such.
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Old 04-01-2011, 12:45 PM   #16
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Default Re: brake tuck?

i heard same, on -3 there's no 37 or 42deg. flare
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Old 04-01-2011, 01:09 PM   #17
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Default Re: brake tuck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by crip View Post
i heard same, on -3 there's no 37 or 42deg. flare
it becomes a 37 degree once compressed onto the fitting. it is a 45 degree coming off the flaring tool.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:26 PM   #18
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Default Re: brake tuck?

paul I updated the first post a little to where I am not now. minus the fittings install, ran out of phone camera memory.
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:01 PM   #19
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Default Re: brake tuck?

updated to inlet lines from master cylinder to proportioning valve.
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:14 PM   #20
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Default Re: brake tuck?

bump..
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