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drumnatural, I believe even the K20A3 pump is the same (edit: in base RSX, not EP3). I think the Z1 pump is the same. Just gotta compare part numbers.

ainokea_si, I think the baffles is just to prevent oil starvation in hard turns since the oil can't completely shift to one side. Can someone confirm?
 
drumnatural, I believe even the K20A3 pump is the same. I think the Z1 pump is the same. Just gotta compare part numbers.

ainokea_si, I think the baffles is just to prevent oil starvation in hard turns since the oil can't completely shift to one side. Can someone confirm?
i have no clue, i would like to save the 600 bucks but dont want to run into a nightmare. i can not seemed to get a good response from the hytech guy either. i want to do this setup and trying to find all of the parts is starting to get annoying
 
I'll buy it off you if you don't feel like keeping it. :)


talonxracer, what about a daily driver that sees the track once or twice a month? Stick with the K20Z3 oil pump?
i think i may be selling the pump because i just got off the phone with hytech and he said that the pump on the si is to big and the rod is place differently. the rsx pump that was used is great because it is smaller and can circulate the oil more. and also said that the pan is needed because it helps keep more oil moving. oil moving is what keeps you from blowing stuff
 
subscribed...excellent info Talon!

Just a quick question...
My curiosity is wondering if you can do an oil pump swap without having to pull the motor? or does a pump swap require the timing chain to be removed n' all that?

thanks..
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
That depends alot on the chassis. With the DC5 and EP3 chassis you will need to slightly drop the subframe to remove the pan. I am not sure about other chassis. But yes it is rather involved as the timing chain has to be removed first.

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Talon, what mods need to be done to the a2 pump for it to rev to 9500 rpm?

Would it be possible to use any of the parts from the z3 pump in an a2 pump in order to have more pressure at idle and low rpm? Could you swap the pump rotors to accomplish this?
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
I havnt modded any A2 oil pumps, but Hytech does this on a routine basis. They blend where the pump cavity makes the turn to exit the pump, it is a very acute angle and presents an obstruction to the flow. John said he carries them in stock.

The Z3 components will not fit in the A2 housing.
 
How do you think the K20Z3 oil pump would work in a K24 while retaining the K20Z3 balance shafts? What if the K24 had lightened rods, pistons and possibly crankshaft?
 
^ Yeah, you showed me that already. :) I have a K20A2 oil pump too but I just found out it's been sitting in oil and coolant for almost a year now. I wonder if it's still good. Coolant becomes acidic when mixed with oil.

I want to explore Talon's stuff just because balance shafts make the car nicer to daily drive. :)
 
I assure you that with my K24A2/K20A2 with cams that is untuned the motor is smooth as hell. There is no way you can feel vibrations from the motor over your motor mounts it's rediculous how people jump on a band wagon because one person tries to be different. My car is daily driven with a lightened flywheel and drives amazing. Do what you wish but I think you're wasting time. -J
 
Well, I know a K20A2 is pretty smooth. Had one in my RSX until it blew. But ever since I drove the TSX (yeah, I know it's got softer mounts) I've loved how smooth it felt.

Smooth is still pretty relative. Just like "fast" is relative. My RSX with ESMM shook like mad. Everything rattled. I can't say how it'd be with balance shafts but if I can reduce any of that, I will. I'm willing to sacrifice some HP for comfort.
 
The Energy Suspension motor mounts just carry any engine vibration into the cabin. Before I put them in, my RSX was super quiet on the inside. The stock rubber mounts absorb the vibes much easier. I'm just hoping this helps. If not, I still have a K20A2 pump laying around.
 
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