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Discussion starter · #41 ·
LoWIQ said:
You said that EK's have more clearance, but would still have to cut their hood. Any chance that with a k20a2 and this new pulley an EK wouldn't have to cut the skeleton?

Thanks,
Ryan
It depends on what mounts you would go with, but maybe all EK mounts would work w/ this pulley. I know that k20a.org user k-dub has P/S in his EK w/ Hasport EKK1 mounts and he had to do some notching. If the notching he had done was strictly for pulley clearnaces, then you would be able to use the Jackson Pulley with no problems, as the Jackson pulley is smaller in diameter than the pump itself. However, if k-dub had to notch his hood for the pump, then no matter what pulley you go with, notching will still have to take place on EKK1 mounts. I will try to get him to comment on this. Hybrid-Racing's mounts position the engine similarly to the EKK1 kit, so it would probably follow suit; though, there still could be some differences between them which I am uncertain of.

RSXRudebwoy said:
Lets say you have the EKK2 mounts and wanna run P/S on a K20A2, seeing as how there is 2 settings could you put it on the bottom K24 setting , sacrifice oil pan clearance but not have to notch your hood, with the right belt/ pulley set up? Just a though.
I am actually thinking that an EK w/ EKK2 mounts and running a k20 in the lower position might work fine w/ the stock P/S pulley without any notching. The lower position on the EKK2 mounts will have the same ground clearance as what you would have on an EG w/ EGK1 mounts, and IMO, oil pan clearances are not that bad with those mounts. If I had an EK w/ a K20, I would run it this way since you would have a lower center of gravity as well!
 
Karcepts said:
It depends on what mounts you would go with, but maybe all EK mounts would work w/ this pulley. I know that k20a.org user k-dub has P/S in his EK w/ Hasport EKK1 mounts and he had to do some notching. If the notching he had done was strictly for pulley clearnaces, then you would be able to use the Jackson Pulley with no problems, as the Jackson pulley is smaller in diameter than the pump itself. However, if k-dub had to notch his hood for the pump, then no matter what pulley you go with, notching will still have to take place on EKK1 mounts. I will try to get him to comment on this. Hybrid-Racing's mounts position the engine similarly to the EKK1 kit, so it would probably follow suit; though, there still could be some differences between them which I am uncertain of.

Before I started to do the swap, my main priority was to use p\s. With the understanding of the Honda p/s system I was able to proceed. I remember searching and found a site of a ek coupe that had power steering, So that automatically let me know its is 100% possible. I kept the factory mounting position of the Ek's P/S Resevoir. I went to a local hydralic hose shop and had them find me the proper (oil compatible) hose to run the p/s pump feed line. I believe it was a 5/8" hose about 7 feet. Running the hose from stock location of the resevoir then down running across the core support then back up to the rsx pump feed. Can't remember if i used the whole 7 feet, but doesn't hurt to get extra. When hooking up the high pressure lines, I used both my original p/s high pressure hose and the high pressure hose from the rsx pump, and went to another hydralic hose shop to have them attached to each other. This was ran across the firewall, zip ties held them in place. As for the hood you will have to notch the hood's skeleton to clear the Pulley. I marked it by laying the hood down with the pump attached to the engine and used a marker to mark where I needed to cut. Be very care when you are cutting because you are very close to the outside skin of the hood. I've finished the swap over a year now with no problems or leaks with the p/s system. As always people remember to use Acura\Honda formulated p/s fluid, using any other will damage the system. I will attach as many pics as I can find taking during the procedure.
 

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The Dza said:
Brian, did you want to meet up so i can see if my ITR steering rack bolts up to a stock EG subframe? Let me know, i'd really be interested in seeing the results.
they should bolt right up; they have the same dimensions.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
k-dub said:
Before I started to do the swap, my main priority was to use p\s. With the understanding of the Honda p/s system I was able to proceed. I remember searching and found a site of a ek coupe that had power steering, So that automatically let me know its is 100% possible. I kept the factory mounting position of the Ek's P/S Resevoir. I went to a local hydralic hose shop and had them find me the proper (oil compatible) hose to run the p/s pump feed line. I believe it was a 5/8" hose about 7 feet. Running the hose from stock location of the resevoir then down running across the core support then back up to the rsx pump feed. Can't remember if i used the whole 7 feet, but doesn't hurt to get extra. When hooking up the high pressure lines, I used both my original p/s high pressure hose and the high pressure hose from the rsx pump, and went to another hydralic hose shop to have them attached to each other. This was ran across the firewall, zip ties held them in place. As for the hood you will have to notch the hood's skeleton to clear the Pulley. I marked it by laying the hood down with the pump attached to the engine and used a marker to mark where I needed to cut. Be very care when you are cutting because you are very close to the outside skin of the hood. I've finished the swap over a year now with no problems or leaks with the p/s system. As always people remember to use Acura\Honda formulated p/s fluid, using any other will damage the system. I will attach as many pics as I can find taking during the procedure.
Do you believe some of the notching was required to clear the pump itself? The major issue people are interested in is if going w/ the Jackson Pulley (smaller diameter and is smaller than the pump housing itself), will they still have to notch the hood w/ EKK1 mounts in order to clear the pump? With the amount removed on the right of your hood, it looks like they may have to do this, but maybe you just took a little extra off...

The Dza said:
Brian, did you want to meet up so i can see if my ITR steering rack bolts up to a stock EG subframe? Let me know, i'd really be interested in seeing the results.
I honestly don't have the time. What Dza is talking about is the fact that I had mentioned to him the observation that my ITR rack looked as if it would directly bolt up to the non-P/S EG crossmember. I was always under the assumption that you needed a P/S rack and crossmember combo, as I have read that the crossmembers were different between P/S and non-P/S. Maybe the myth began with info that may pertain to an EK, but not necessarily for an EG (or maybe I had read or assumed wrong). Since I obtained an ITR rack w/ crossmember, I was actually too lazy to test the theory out, but I did take some careful observations, and it looks like it just may work.

The bolt patterns for the racks look amazingly similar:
Image


Dza - I'd suggest just waiting until you do your swap to test it out if you would like to try it. If not, www.brandywineparts.com has tons of crossmembers to purchase or test out on in your area.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
98specR said:
they should bolt right up; they have the same dimensions.
This is what I read:
jon v said:
can I use an ITR P/S rack and an EG rear crossmember?
brian g said:
As long as the EG crossmember is for a PS rack. As a general rule use PS racks with PS crossmembers. And manual racks with manual crossmembers.
PS crossmembers can be used with manual racks with modification, but why bother.
brian g
What's the deal?

Dza - Just take your P/S rack to Brandywine and try to slap it on the many empty Civic engine bays! You can confirm this for us...
 
Karcepts said:
Do you believe some of the notching was required to clear the pump itself? The major issue people are interested in is if going w/ the Jackson Pulley (smaller diameter and is smaller than the pump housing itself), will they still have to notch the hood w/ EKK1 mounts in order to clear the pump? With the amount removed on the right of your hood, it looks like they may have to do this, but maybe you just took a little extra off...
I just looked. You will have to clear the pump physically. So getting away with using the jackson pulley may not work. Plus using a smaller pulley will speed up the pump making the pump and system work harder and kill more HP. So save you money from buying the smaller pulley and just notch it. Take you time great results will come. Hell, I was so dedicated to keeping P/S I was willing to cut a hole through the hood to clear the pulley if cutting the skeleton was not enough. But keep in mind that all cars are not perfect, even a wreck could change the geometry of the hoods, fenders, core support, frame, etc.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
k-dub said:
I just looked. You will have to clear the pump physically. So getting away with using the jackson pulley may not work. Plus using a smaller pulley will speed up the pump making the pump and system work harder and kill more HP. So save you money from buying the smaller pulley and just notch it. Take you time great results will come. Hell, I was so dedicated to keeping P/S I was willing to cut a hole through the hood to clear the pulley if cutting the skeleton was not enough. But keep in mind that all cars are not perfect, even a wreck could change the geometry of the hoods, fenders, core support, frame, etc.
Good info!

The Dza said:
Isn't brandywine in mechanicsville?
Upper Marlboro: http://www.brandywineparts.com/centralsmallcar.htm
 
k-dub said:
I just looked. You will have to clear the pump physically. So getting away with using the jackson pulley may not work. Plus using a smaller pulley will speed up the pump making the pump and system work harder and kill more HP. So save you money from buying the smaller pulley and just notch it. Take you time great results will come. Hell, I was so dedicated to keeping P/S I was willing to cut a hole through the hood to clear the pulley if cutting the skeleton was not enough. But keep in mind that all cars are not perfect, even a wreck could change the geometry of the hoods, fenders, core support, frame, etc.
I dunno I just figured if the EKK2 mounts position the motor more to the rear it would clear the hood on its k24 setting. Plus if I got in a wreck or front end collision, knock on wood, I wouldnt want my hood wrapped around my power steering, way not cool. I guess I will have to be a guinea pig, I dont start my swap till Nov though, damn Army.

BTW how much power is lose by going with AC and PS?
 
The Dza said:
Brian, did you want to meet up so i can see if my ITR steering rack bolts up to a stock EG subframe? Let me know, i'd really be interested in seeing the results.
itr and gsr use the same rack and quite a few people have swapped the gsr racks into the eg's in order to improve their steering ratio. However the eg p/s and non-p/s subframes are different. I do not know if you can put a ps rack on a non-p/s subframe.
 
kommon_sense said:
itr and gsr use the same rack and quite a few people have swapped the gsr racks into the eg's in order to improve their steering ratio. However the eg p/s and non-p/s subframes are different. I do not know if you can put a ps rack on a non-p/s subframe.
I believe the 2000 and 2001 ITR rack has a slightly faster turning rate than the GSR but yes, they bolt right into the EG, You can mount the rack to a non PS subframe if you slot the holes on the passenger side 'U' bracket. It will just fit. I know because I have a 2001 ITR rack on my CX.
 
92sleepr said:
I believe the 2000 and 2001 ITR rack has a slightly faster turning rate than the GSR but yes, they bolt right into the EG, You can mount the rack to a non PS subframe if you slot the holes on the passenger side 'U' bracket. It will just fit. I know because I have a 2001 ITR rack on my CX.

What do you mean "slot the holes" :confused:
 
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