amazing writeup brian!!! i'm glad to see everything worked out for you. looks great:up: .
have you gotten your motor dynoed since you put on the p/s?
have you gotten your motor dynoed since you put on the p/s?
P/S into K20 EG Writeup...
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Update: Scroll down for Option #2 - Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering!!!
If you plan to road race, autocross, or just enjoy parallel parking, I highly believe that you will absolutely love adding P/S into your vehicle; especially if you have a slow manual rack. Not only was I not able to turn my car fast enough in slaloms w/o P/S, but the effort required was unbearable (especially when running Hoosier's newest 275mm wide R compounds). The more traction you build into the car, the greater the demand will be for P/S. I basically had to drive slower because my hands/arms were not physically fast enough to turn the wheel quick enough in tight slaloms, even though the car itself was much more capable. I debated on trying out a Quaife gear set, which would definitely decrease the steering wheel revolutions for a set wheel output; however, I knew that would just add more difficulty with the steering as that gear set would create a mechanical disadvantage for the driver. Since I've added the P/S, my car is ridiculously easy to drive fast and in control when on the limits; and when just daily driving, the car seemed to transform into a luxury car. Additionally, you know how when you run a lot of camber (to have that ideal contact patch for your race setup), but then when daily driving your car darts all over from left to right due to slight road inconsistencies; well, I can't say that has completely gone away, but the P/S definitely dampens that effect GREATLY! Anyway, onto the install...
Remove the spline coupling from the old rack and drop the rack/crossmember out...
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No more rack/crossmember...
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Old rack/crossmember (top) compared to Integra rack/crossmember (bottom)
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Civic input spline on old rack...
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Integra input spline on new rack...
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Obviously, you will need an Integra spline coupling to connect your steering linkage to the Integra rack...
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My Integra rack lines were cut and beat up, so I replaced them with new ones...
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Lines and rear mount bolted up and ready to install...
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Get a friend, or use some jacks to help get the crossmember assembly into position to bolt up...
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Mounted...
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Rear mount connected...
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If you tried to install a stock P/S pump/pulley setup into an EG, you would have to cut a hole completely through your hood to get the pulley to fit. This is not the case on an EK or DC2, as there is enough hood clearance to just notch out the inner skeleton. After notching out my inner hood skeleton and realizing it wasn't going to happen, I started making plans to cut the hood. Luckily, a day before I planned on destroying the hood, I stumbled upon a pic of a Jackson Racing supercharger installed in an RSX. It was at that point when I realized something was up w/ the P/S pulley. It looked just slightly smaller in O.D., almost perfect for my application. So anyway, after ordering Jackson Racing P/N: 052-154 and checking it out, I was able to breathe a nice sigh of relief.
For a k20a2, you will want the belt shown below (52.2" long). I ran this belt initially on the k20a; but after some use, the belt has worn in and seated such that the tensioner is almost maxed out in its travel. For a k20a or k20z1 I would recommend going with the next shortest size which is a 52.0" long belt (to compensate for the smaller prc crank pulley).
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Jackson Racing pulley installed. P/N: 052-154
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For the fluid return, you could opt to go with a stock setup, but the cost of the parts just for a mediocre return did not seem to be worth it. I opted to get some 3/8" I.D. hose and utilize a $40 oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries. P/N: 1007
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It even mounted effortlessly in the vertical front bulkhead support.
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RSX P/S reservoir mounted w/ return hoses hooked up...
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Integra spline coupling connected..
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For the high pressure hose, an 02-04 RSX Base or Type-S will work nicely. Whatever you do, do not get an 05+ high pressure hose! The fitting to go into the Integra/Civic P/S rack will not work as Honda increased the fitting size in 05 and up RSX's.
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Bolt on the high pressure hose to the P/S pump.
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Done...
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Note: The one thing I didn't do, which can gain extra clearance, is to flip the plastic return connector on the pump upside-down. There is an existing hole in the pump that allows you to do this; but you need to tap it, such that you can thread in a screw to mount. This was an area where my hood would rub on, and over time I ended up cracking the carbon fiber hood because I did not address the issue quick enough. You may alternatively choose to do what k20a.org user kommon_sense has shared with us on Post #154.
Update: Option #2 - Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering!!!
EHPS Parts List:
Mechanical Components:
EHPS Pump - 91-95 Toyota MR2 Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering Pump - Qty=1
Karcepts P/N: KES01 – Karcepts EHPS Pump Mounting Bracket & Hardware Kit for EG/DC2 – Qty=1
Karcepts P/N: KES02 – Karcepts EHPS Pump Mounting Bracket & Hardware Kit for EK – Qty=1
Hydraulic Components:
Karcepts P/N: KES03 - Karcepts EHPS High Pressure Hose Assembly With Fittings
EAR-780610ERL - Earl's Hose, Super Stock, Rubber, Black, -10 AN, 6 ft. Length - Qty=1
EAR-781006ERL - Earl's Hose, Super Stock, Rubber, Black, -6 AN, 10 ft. Length - Qty=1
Electrical Components
V23232-A0001-X003 - Tyco 12V 75A SPST Power Relay With Diode Suppression (same as Bosch 0 332 002 156 ) - Qty=1
181100F 100A 12V - Auto-Reset Circuit Breaker - Qty=1
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Follow wiring schematic provided by: www.driveev.com
http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/photos/pg20pics/e10.png
Slight adjustments to the schematic were made to keep the wiring tidy:
1. 12V Battery + was picked up at the alternator
2. Pump 12V - was just grounded
The EHPS setups is the best yet! There are no hood interferences to worry about, you eliminate parasitic losses by removing the mechanical belt driven pump (approximately 5-8 WHP), the assist is always constant as it is not engine speed dependent, and the MR2 pump additionally has a pressure adjustment on it where you can control the amount of assist desired. If you desire a little more road feel, lower the assist to your liking with the adjustment screw; if you want Cadillac luxury, crank it up.
Enjoy!
If you plan to road race, autocross, or just enjoy parallel parking, I highly believe that you will absolutely love adding P/S into your vehicle; especially if you have a slow manual rack. Not only was I not able to turn my car fast enough in slaloms w/o P/S, but the effort required was unbearable (especially when running Hoosier's newest 275mm wide R compounds). The more traction you build into the car, the greater the demand will be for P/S. I basically had to drive slower because my hands/arms were not physically fast enough to turn the wheel quick enough in tight slaloms, even though the car itself was much more capable. I debated on trying out a Quaife gear set, which would definitely decrease the steering wheel revolutions for a set wheel output; however, I knew that would just add more difficulty with the steering as that gear set would create a mechanical disadvantage for the driver. Since I've added the P/S, my car is ridiculously easy to drive fast and in control when on the limits; and when just daily driving, the car seemed to transform into a luxury car. Additionally, you know how when you run a lot of camber (to have that ideal contact patch for your race setup), but then when daily driving your car darts all over from left to right due to slight road inconsistencies; well, I can't say that has completely gone away, but the P/S definitely dampens that effect GREATLY! Anyway, onto the install...
Remove the spline coupling from the old rack and drop the rack/crossmember out...
No more rack/crossmember...
Old rack/crossmember (top) compared to Integra rack/crossmember (bottom)
Civic input spline on old rack...
Integra input spline on new rack...
Obviously, you will need an Integra spline coupling to connect your steering linkage to the Integra rack...
My Integra rack lines were cut and beat up, so I replaced them with new ones...
Lines and rear mount bolted up and ready to install...
Get a friend, or use some jacks to help get the crossmember assembly into position to bolt up...
Mounted...
Rear mount connected...
If you tried to install a stock P/S pump/pulley setup into an EG, you would have to cut a hole completely through your hood to get the pulley to fit. This is not the case on an EK or DC2, as there is enough hood clearance to just notch out the inner skeleton. After notching out my inner hood skeleton and realizing it wasn't going to happen, I started making plans to cut the hood. Luckily, a day before I planned on destroying the hood, I stumbled upon a pic of a Jackson Racing supercharger installed in an RSX. It was at that point when I realized something was up w/ the P/S pulley. It looked just slightly smaller in O.D., almost perfect for my application. So anyway, after ordering Jackson Racing P/N: 052-154 and checking it out, I was able to breathe a nice sigh of relief.
For a k20a2, you will want the belt shown below (52.2" long). I ran this belt initially on the k20a; but after some use, the belt has worn in and seated such that the tensioner is almost maxed out in its travel. For a k20a or k20z1 I would recommend going with the next shortest size which is a 52.0" long belt (to compensate for the smaller prc crank pulley).
Jackson Racing pulley installed. P/N: 052-154
For the fluid return, you could opt to go with a stock setup, but the cost of the parts just for a mediocre return did not seem to be worth it. I opted to get some 3/8" I.D. hose and utilize a $40 oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries. P/N: 1007
It even mounted effortlessly in the vertical front bulkhead support.
RSX P/S reservoir mounted w/ return hoses hooked up...
Integra spline coupling connected..
For the high pressure hose, an 02-04 RSX Base or Type-S will work nicely. Whatever you do, do not get an 05+ high pressure hose! The fitting to go into the Integra/Civic P/S rack will not work as Honda increased the fitting size in 05 and up RSX's.
Bolt on the high pressure hose to the P/S pump.
Done...
Note: The one thing I didn't do, which can gain extra clearance, is to flip the plastic return connector on the pump upside-down. There is an existing hole in the pump that allows you to do this; but you need to tap it, such that you can thread in a screw to mount. This was an area where my hood would rub on, and over time I ended up cracking the carbon fiber hood because I did not address the issue quick enough. You may alternatively choose to do what k20a.org user kommon_sense has shared with us on Post #154.
Update: Option #2 - Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering!!!
EHPS Parts List:
Mechanical Components:
EHPS Pump - 91-95 Toyota MR2 Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering Pump - Qty=1
Karcepts P/N: KES01 – Karcepts EHPS Pump Mounting Bracket & Hardware Kit for EG/DC2 – Qty=1
Karcepts P/N: KES02 – Karcepts EHPS Pump Mounting Bracket & Hardware Kit for EK – Qty=1
Hydraulic Components:
Karcepts P/N: KES03 - Karcepts EHPS High Pressure Hose Assembly With Fittings
EAR-780610ERL - Earl's Hose, Super Stock, Rubber, Black, -10 AN, 6 ft. Length - Qty=1
EAR-781006ERL - Earl's Hose, Super Stock, Rubber, Black, -6 AN, 10 ft. Length - Qty=1
Electrical Components
V23232-A0001-X003 - Tyco 12V 75A SPST Power Relay With Diode Suppression (same as Bosch 0 332 002 156 ) - Qty=1
181100F 100A 12V - Auto-Reset Circuit Breaker - Qty=1
Follow wiring schematic provided by: www.driveev.com
http://www.driveev.com/jeepev/photos/pg20pics/e10.png
Slight adjustments to the schematic were made to keep the wiring tidy:
1. 12V Battery + was picked up at the alternator
2. Pump 12V - was just grounded
The EHPS setups is the best yet! There are no hood interferences to worry about, you eliminate parasitic losses by removing the mechanical belt driven pump (approximately 5-8 WHP), the assist is always constant as it is not engine speed dependent, and the MR2 pump additionally has a pressure adjustment on it where you can control the amount of assist desired. If you desire a little more road feel, lower the assist to your liking with the adjustment screw; if you want Cadillac luxury, crank it up.
Enjoy!
1 - 20 of 293 Posts
What about this plug thats not hooked up. WTF does it do...
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Pimp ass write BTW.
Pimp ass write BTW.
RIGHT ON!! I KNEW IT COULD BE DONE!! THANK YOU BRIAN FOR SETTING THE PACE!! :up: :up: K-SWAP EG WITH POWER STEERING!!!!! SWEET!!!Paul1985 said:
What is the diameter on the ITR front bar? Looks like 28m? :wow:
How obtainable are those ITR carriers that would be needed to run that phat bar? :up: :up
Thats the pressure switch. I believe is for the ELD (electrical load detector) It rises the rpm some when it sense you turning it so that it does bog down to much during idle. Its your choice to hook it up, but so far I haven't notice any major rpm drops and works fine for me without it hooked up. I believe k pro uses the p/s ELD pin on the ecu for something, correct me if i'm wrong on that peeps.Nevaeh Speed said:What about this plug thats not hooked up. WTF does it do...
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Pimp ass write BTW.
Brian, you ARE the MAN!!! The Man of Super 
With Mad :dance: Skills!!! Now I need to re-read them all over again? Jeez, I'm such a noob! Mind telling us why use the oil cooler?
With Mad :dance: Skills!!! Now I need to re-read them all over again? Jeez, I'm such a noob! Mind telling us why use the oil cooler?
Not until I slap on the R-Crew header, k-pro, and an exhaust bigger than 2.25". I probably won't compare the difference in power just by adding the P/S. I'm too cheap...98specR said:
A good notching still has to be done for the P/S pump itself on the EG hood. The DC2 hood has more clearance, but I don't know if it is enough to not have to notch anything. Even if you got the pulley, the pump will be your biggest concern. Since you probably have a pump, or since they are easy to obtain with all those who remove them, I'd recommend testing one of those out with the stock pulley removed. If you can clear the pump, the Jackson pulley will work out for you, as its diameter is smaller than the pump's.NtegraDryvr said:
Yep, that would be all you need!Paul1985 said:
There are a lot of parts required for the stock fluid return. You would have to research what you would need here: http://www.hondapartdeals.com/ or here: http://www.barancoacuraparts.com/baranco/jsp/home.jsp
If you went that route, it would be best to just use the stock reservoir, but then you would still need to run a return line to the pump. It just seemed like way too much B.S. to deal with.
You still might have to notch the hood for the P/S pump itself, but I'm not certain on that. The pulley is $80 from Jackson Racing.drhonda said:
K-Dub answered that, but just a comment: Because the Jackson Racing pulley is smaller in diameter, you are actually already spinning the pump faster for a given rpm. So when I'm trying to parallel park or whatever (at idle or low rpm), I can do that w/ my pinky finger as is. I could have wired it up, but I'm leaving it as is becasue of this fact.Nevaeh Speed said:
The bar is for a US ITR... 24mm. The parts are easily obtainable! Hit up S.W.A.P. (SOUTH COAST PERFORMANCE - ACURA DEALERSHIP), sponsor of this site!Cookie said:
Most P/S systems have some form of oil cooling. A stock Civic or Integra w/ P/S has just a long routing system to help cool the fluid, and most additionally have an oil cooler of a much cheesier form (a loop of hard piping that sits right in front of the radiator for cooling) than what I had used. There are many ill effects that may occur if not using a cooler (i.e. reaching the boiling point of the fluid, melting the rack seals, inconsistent steering feel...etc.).poyo said:Brian, you ARE the MAN!!! The Man of Super
1 - 20 of 293 Posts
