If the crankshafts were a different size, is it possible to order a 1/2 inch shorter belt to achieve the same tension as person #3??

What yall' think

 

Ok, so I have done 3 different pulley setups for my own car, and 2 friends...
1. k20a jdm with the 507039 gates belt, and str alt pulley
2. k20a jdm with the 507039 gates belt, and aem pulley
3. k20a2 usdm with 507039 dayco belt and bdl pulley...

so, to get tension on the pulley on number 1 and 2 I had to use washers... last week my top bolt sheered off, and now I have to fix it.

My friend with the typeS usdm a2 dosent need to washer shim out his alternator??? It fits with correct tension flush to the water pump housing. Why is this?? It almost looks to me like the crankshaft pulley is a different size??? is it?? That could explain everything...
All the alternator pulleys are the same size fyi...

If anyone has input, post it up!

-Ryan

Thats interesting.. I have the a2 and I am using the BDL Pulley with a Gatorback Goodyear belt.. 4060390 ... I had to use 3 small washers on each bolt to make it work.. I have heard others not needing any washers with the a2... That is strange.

 

I played around with the 3 pulley setup as well and unless you have to, I would not go with it.

I also managed to put on the alternator and stretch the belt with no washers... using the 507039 belt and AEM pulley.. At first it seemed impossible to do, but I managed to do it by installing the alternator on a angle through one bolt and then skewing the alternator pulley to get the belt and then using the bolt force to straighten the alternator out.. It worked but I could have easily damaged the threading on my block...

When I tensioned the belt with washers on the alternator bolts, I used the washers that are used to secure the manifold...same size and for the top alternator bolt, I used a bigger washer... like the one that secure the header

 

K20a has the smallest crank pulley.
K20a2 has slightly larger crank pulley than k20a
K24a2 has the biggest crank pulley and by quite a bit margin. I would think the k24 crank pulley will be the pulley of choice for 3 pulley setup.

I have 2 K24a2 crank pulley that I'm willing to trade with k20a pulley.

I'll try to take pictures and dimension of all 3 pulleys. Unfortunately it won't be side by side, as the K20a2 pulley is installed on the car currently.

 

That explains it, the crank pulley is a diff size... Anyone have a part number for the dayco belt in 1/2 inch shorter? I may give this a try

 

ive got a k20a2 with aem pulley and whatever belt Nikos recomended to me back when i needed to get it.... Went on smooth with no washers and allthough ive only logged 100 miles on the car it seems to be doing its job very well.

 

Droppedcrxsi-happen to know the mileage of each of those set-ups? This may give us an idea of approximate lifespan.

My set up is-k20a2 usdm with 507039 dayco belt and AEM pulley
I have been running mine for 3000 miles of hard daily driving, holding up fine so far. Not to hard to get off and on either, about 5 min job.

 

i remember when i was researching the setup a dude told me he got about 20,000 miles out of his before it fell off or broke or something ... with that, i think i need to be getting myself a spare....... remember boys and girls... water pump is belt driven .... so keep an eye on that belt!

 

I would like to know more about works best too b/c I am about to put mine together and would like to see more.

 

Droppedcrxsi-happen to know the mileage of each of those set-ups? This may give us an idea of approximate lifespan.

My set up is-k20a2 usdm with 507039 dayco belt and AEM pulley
I have been running mine for 3000 miles of hard daily driving, holding up fine so far. Not to hard to get off and on either, about 5 min job.

miles...
1 chris's/crx barts dunno, 5-12K
2 mine, 10kish
3 zero miles so far

Im thinkin im just gunna measure it out, and buy a shorter belt that will act like im using a k20a2 crank pulley, this way I dont have to use washers and have the stress on the bolts.... oh, and im gunna get stronger bolts:up:

 

the part number would be 5070385 dayco...

the 3rd digit (7) is how many grooves. then the next numbers are how many inches ...for example... larger vehicles with 6 groove 110" belts would have the part number 5061100 if it were 112.5" it would be 5061125

again... 7 groove 38.5" belt... 5070385

 

k24?? pulley (not sure, got it off ebay as a k20a2 but it was quite a bit larger) on a k20a2, the Dayco 5070410 belt does NOT work, I'm guessing the deck height difference makes the belt to long. And the 507039 is to short, there was no in between belt at the time I was messing with my pulleys. I've been running the 507039 for about 4,000 miles no problems with a k20a2 stock pulley/aem no washers.

 

I originally had my K20A2 with the Dayco belt 5070390. But after about 6-7 months of daily driving my battery and alternator took a crap on me. About the best I figure the alternator was under-driven since there wasn't enough belt tension. Checked voltage @ idle and it was a little over 13v, which wasn't quite the 14-some volts that the RSX and EP3 put out at idle. Ended up having to use a couple washers on the top and bottom to space it out and get enough tension to reach the desired 14v at idle. I posted up about it here: http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12205

It's been almost a year now, still daily driven with no problems. For those that haven't put that much mileage on that belt setup yet, be cautiously aware :up:

 

sorry for asking this question...maybe people have asked it before in the past but i've yet to seek for it...but is there a reason why people are using the 3 pulley setup instead of just going with the ep3 idler pulley...is it possibly because it takes less effort to move it??? please fill me in on the info...

gold

 

If I recall some of the some of the aftermarket Fluid Dampers are available in different sizes too, may want to take this info into consideration if anyone is planning on purchasing one soon.

 

sorry for asking this question...maybe people have asked it before in the past but i've yet to seek for it...but is there a reason why people are using the 3 pulley setup instead of just going with the ep3 idler pulley...is it possibly because it takes less effort to move it??? please fill me in on the info...

gold

My K20A2 was taken off my totalled RSX-S(R.I.P. ). The power steering pulley mount was damaged, hence I thought it would better and easier to use the 3 pulley setup.

 

I did it, cuz the ep3 pulley wont fit under my crx hood:up:

 

I did it, cuz the ep3 pulley wont fit under my crx hood:up:

same here

 

thanks guys...

 

ETD Racing has that problem solved. We have been working on a part that will solve the pulley problem , I cant say much more but I am sure you guys will love it. We will post some pics soon.

Thanks
John

 

Congratulation on the magazine feature this month! Post some pics of the article!

 

Congratulation on the magazine feature this month! Post some pics of the article!

they are all here
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/features/0702_ht_honda_crx_si/photo_01.html

 

HCI Provided us with a .pdf of the magazine article that you can download from our site to have a peak at.

Click Here to Download 1.8MB .PDF. Righ Click, Save As or click to view in your browser window. You will need Adobe Reader to view this file.

You can also view the install online and download the file from here:Tech Install

 

Good job and congrats to both of you!

 

How's the reliability with the 3-pulley setup and electric water pump so far? Also, what alternator did you end up using? On a DD car, would a D-series alternator be perfectly capable or providing enough power?

-Jalal