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How-to: Use OEM Honda axles - save money! PROOF!

28K views 58 replies 17 participants last post by  BlaZeBDS  
#1 ·
Hey guys,
Continuing a little more with our C-speed How-to's this week, I figured we'd share some information on the on going axle debate.

Instead of continuing with the debate here, I will just go ahead and show how you can use OEM D-series passenger side axle with your K-swap in an EG with Hasport mounts.

The pics and measurements will show you that the single cam axle is the perfect length to use on the driver side.

Cliff notes:
92-95 SOHC D-series Passenger side axle WILL WORK on driverside with K-swap and Hasport mounts.

Here we go:
You'll notice that the required axle length on the driverside measured from the tranny axle seal to the outter hub is 19"
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Top: stock B-series passenger side axle
Middle: stock D-series passenger side axle
Bottom: Stock DC5R driverside axle

You'll notice that the stock B-series axle measures 18", which is too short by 1" (side note: in relaxed state, on the B-series axle the inner hub bearings are already 0.25" from the edge of the race in the hub and you can feel them through the boot, so it is actually 1.5" or so too short). The DC5R axle measures 20.5" which is too long by 1.5" (fully compressed, the DC5R axle is 19", so it would bind if you used it as is). The stock D-series axle measures 19.5" (bearings in the inner hub are in the middle of the hub in relaxed state) - perfect! Of course, this is measured from the outer edge of the hubs, NOT end to end.
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Here's the stock D-series axle installed:
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Here's the stock D-series axle as it sits in relaxed state:
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Here's the stock D-series axle fully compressed:
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So, as you can see, a stock single cam axle does work!

Here's how you make the D-series axle work. Simply swap the DC5 base, DC5S, DC5R, or B-series inner hub onto the D-series axle. The stock D-series outter hub is already 32mm.

So there you go. OEM axle for your K-swap with perfect length and easily attainable parts from your local auto parts store.

If anyone needs info on how to swap hubs, I will post a how-to on that as well.

Enjoy!


Side note: D-series axle shaft diameter is 0.990" whereas B and K axle diameter is 1.040". So the D-series axles are about 1/16" smaller in diameter, but shouldn't make a difference.


And for those that are interested, you can use an OEM B/D-series FPR on K-swaps too:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23271


C-speed FTW ;) NW Honda Challenge 2nd place 2006
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#5 ·
JDM96SpecCTR said:
u can also use a full b series axle on the passenger side with a k swap
No you cannot. The stock B-series driver side axle is about 1/2"-3/4" too short to use on the passenger side, it is slightly stretched. As I said in the first post, in the relaxed state, the bearings in the hub on a B-series axle are too close to the edge already to the point where you can feel them through the boot - so you definately do not want to stretch it more. I will post measurements and pics tomorrow.
 
#7 ·
Nice post! How do you guys feel about the "swap hubs" so that you can replace your stock hubs and run type-s axles? I have herd nothing but good things from the few people who have run them and ordered a set awhile back. I have pics on the last page of my swap thread. Thanks!
 
#8 ·
NtegraDryvr said:
Nice post! How do you guys feel about the "swap hubs" so that you can replace your stock hubs and run type-s axles? I have herd nothing but good things from the few people who have run them and ordered a set awhile back. I have pics on the last page of my swap thread. Thanks!
I'm not sure what you mean, but the problem with RSX-S axles is that they are not readily available at an inexpensive price like the B/D-series axles (which can be had from Napa for under $40-$70/ea). Also, in our specific situation, if on the off chance that we did break an axle at the track (and we didn't have any spares), we'd be able to goto the local parts store and pick up a standard axle that most auto parts stores almost ALWAYS have in stock.

Acura dealerships may not have RSX-S axles in stock, and if they did, have fun with your wallet. Aftermarket axles are expensive and if you had to order them, well... you'd get them at the soonest if you shipped them overnight. I'm sure you get the point...
 
#10 ·
C-speed said:
I'm not sure what you mean, but the problem with RSX-S axles is that they are not readily available at an inexpensive price like the B/D-series axles (which can be had from Napa for under $40-$70/ea). Also, in our specific situation, if on the off chance that we did break an axle at the track (and we didn't have any spares), we'd be able to goto the local parts store and pick up a standard axle that most auto parts stores almost ALWAYS have in stock.

Acura dealerships may not have RSX-S axles in stock, and if they did, have fun with your wallet. Aftermarket axles are expensive and if you had to order them, well... you'd get them at the soonest if you shipped them overnight. I'm sure you get the point...
The reason I went with the hubs is I figured a type-s axle would be stronger since I had herd of certain dss's breaking and that the oem's are real strong. I also figured I could just get the axles from salvage if I did need a new set for some reason. I was mainly concerned with length etc and wondering for those of us with the hubs if the type-s axles would pop out time to time and if you knew if the type-s axles were the right length.
 
#12 ·
I am curious as to why you would use axles that are from a SOHC rated for 150-160HP?? with a K swap..They look so tiny.. How long do you expect them to last? Its cheaper year, but I feel you will be changing axles a few times a week..
 
#14 ·
1320WhtRex said:
I am curious as to why you would use axles that are from a SOHC rated for 150-160HP?? with a K swap..They look so tiny.. How long do you expect them to last? Its cheaper year, but I feel you will be changing axles a few times a week..
They will hold up I'm sure. Axles usually break when people pop the clutch or slap all power instantly on the axles, rather than a "hard push".

Of course I'm referring to drag racing.

One of my good friends has an ls/vtec turbo 860 whp civic still running factory B series axles.
 
#15 ·
poison said:
They will hold up I'm sure. Axles usually break when people pop the clutch or slap all power instantly on the axles, rather than a "hard push".

Of course I'm referring to drag racing.

One of my good friends has an ls/vtec turbo 860 whp civic still running factory B series axles.
Well yeah.. They may hold up on the road just normal driving, but I guess im referring to taking to the track.. You wont be able to get a good launch from fear of axles.. B Series are thicker though so I can slightly understand using those axles.. I know of someone running 10's on OEM B series Axles though so I know its possible.
 
#16 ·
1320WhtRex said:
I am curious as to why you would use axles that are from a SOHC rated for 150-160HP?? with a K swap..They look so tiny.. How long do you expect them to last? Its cheaper year, but I feel you will be changing axles a few times a week..

Again, I didn't want to turn this thread into another debate as to which axles will work or not and which are stronger.

But to answer your question, the d-series pass. side axle is only 1/16" smaller in diameter than B/K-series axles (driverside - the long one; is the same diameter as B/K). The actual bosses that the hub bearings ride on, however are smaller in diameter on the D-series as compared to B and K. However! If you want stronger inner hub components, the B and K series bearing boss will fit on the D-series shaft splines! They are all interchangable.
 
#17 ·
TrePound said:
so what would i need to make a hybrid passenger side axle.

We are still working on a simple and inexpensive solution to this. However, I can assure you, that the stock B-series driverside axles is too short to use on the passengerside.

We currently use a DC5R passenger side axle on our race car. It works just fine, however if compared to the D-series on the driverside, the DC5R is about 1/4" shorter when you fully compress it back into the hub. Not bad, it works...but could be better. And again, DC5R axles are hard to come by and expensive. Keep in mind DC5R axles are about 10mm LONGER than the DC5 base and DC5S and IMO, are still about 1/4" short of "perfect".
 
#20 ·
#22 ·
C-speed said:
No, I haven't seen that... but again, K series axles are ungodly expensive from the dealer, and hard to come by from other sources.

Almost everyone has spare B/D series axles lying around and if not, they can be purchased for $40-$70 at your local auto store.
You can get a set of low mileage RSX-S axles right here on K20a.org for under $150. All you need then is some B-series outers and you have a perfect matching set. This is however good to know if I ever break and axle on my driver side as my stock D-series axles will simply be laying around doing nothing after the swap. :up:

Edit: Wait a second, You can put a RSX-S/R or RSX Base inner onto a D-series shaft? Does this mean I can use D-series(from a D16Z6) outers on my RSX-S axles?