forgive me for the noobish question but what is the thrust washer?

i know
throw out bearing
pilot bushing

but not thrust washer

semi circular thrust bearings that reside on both sides of the #4 main journal in the upper half of the block. function is to keep the crank from scraping the block as the crank moves longitudinally.

basically the crank moves back and forth slightly as part of normal operation. the thrust bearing takes the resulting wear. thrust bearings should last a long time, but in this case, improper pedal adjustment causes the bearing to sustain unnecessary loads.

 

oh okay

how should i adjust mine? i just make the arm under the dash 90 degrees from the master cylinder right?

 

oh okay

how should i adjust mine? i just make the arm under the dash 90 degrees from the master cylinder right?

well, the key would be to adjust the clutch so that it releases at the bottom of the pedal's travel instead of at the top. That way you're not moving the clutch fork any more than necessary to release the clutch.

The twin disc clutches seem to require less fork travel. More importantly, they have room for less travel. If the fork moves 2" and the pressure plate "bottoms out" at 1" of travel, there is 1" of unused fork travel. If you push the pedal all the way, the first 1" of travel is normal, after that, the pressure plate bottoms out. The hydraulic pressure goes way up, and this pressure pushes the entire clutch/flywheel/crank against the thrust bearing with extreme pressure. So you have to adjust your clutch pedal to limit the travel, or get a stop block.

 

well i just have an act 6puck with the xpp

i should be good right?

 

well i just have an act 6puck with the xpp

i should be good right?

You should be good regarding the thrust washer having premature wear.
But you should take a look at Oside's thread about the ACT clutch.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=429429

 

yeah ive seen that and hopefully ill be one of the lucky ones it doesnt happen to

 

yeah ive seen that and hopefully ill be one of the lucky ones it doesnt happen to

Apparently part of the problem was that the ACT xtreme PP would bottom out if the pedal was adjusted too high. They re-designed it though. Just adjust your pedal pushrod so that the engagement is in the middle and you'll be good.

 

thanks raz


when it comes to nitty gritty stuff people cant remember verbatim you and doug are the go to guys

 

damm i was thinking of going with the twin disc clutch masters but now i dunno need more info on the stop block or pics... or maybe i should jus go with comp since ppl say there's no issue with them... dammit now im going be online for hours researching!

 

damm i was thinking of going with the twin disc clutch masters but now i dunno need more info on the stop block or pics... or maybe i should jus go with comp since ppl say there's no issue with them... dammit now im going be online for hours researching!

Mine's a competition clutch. The reason I went with CC was because people said there was no problems with it. They never seemed to say that you had to adjust the clutch. But I guess that adjusting the clutch is kinda common sense.

No matter what twin disk you get, if the engine seems to die or stall when you press the clutch pedal, you need to adjust the clutch.

There seems to be some people that just threw it on and it worked with no problems. But they have never said if they installed it or if they paid someone to do it. If they paid someone to do it, that person probably adjusted it and didn't mention anything to them because it's just simple maintance.

Or there's those that have a stop block on it. But nobody seems to have a pic of how it looks like or how to fabricate one or intall one.

 

Did anyone have to modify the factory throw out bearing when installing a Twin Disk?

I heard that is what you have to do with the B series one and its similiar to this one....

 

^^^Not that I know of.

 

If for some reason the fangs for the clutch fork is not in the throw out bearing when installed and in the car, do I have to take out the transmission to put it back in?

 

i thopught the fangs are just supposed to be pushed by the TOB not actually cliped into it

 

i thopught the fangs are just supposed to be pushed by the TOB not actually cliped into it

Oh no they arent...... Slave cylinder pushes fork, which pushes TOB on the teeth of Pressure plate..

 

Did anyone have to modify the factory throw out bearing when installing a Twin Disk?

I heard that is what you have to do with the B series one and its similiar to this one....

MY FX700 came with a new TB, but it looks just like the stock one, all I had to do was adjust the clutch engagement point.

 

Did anyone have to modify the factory throw out bearing when installing a Twin Disk?

I heard that is what you have to do with the B series one and its similiar to this one....

you have to do that with a tilton. i dont think you have to with any others...ahh the joy of tiltons.

 

Well I ended up using the B series TB instead and grinded down he middle... Works much better than the Factory one. Tilton didnt send a TB neither. I called them and it sounded like they didnt know what to do... He said the import guy was out of town so he didnt really know anything..

 

Well, I'm bringing this thread back from the dead because I just reinstalled my twin disk and I'm still having the same problems I had when I messed up my engine the first time.

When I press the clutch pedal, my engine dies. When I press the clutch pedal to start the engine, the engine struggles to turn on.

I adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal and I can't get it to work right.

This is starting to get to the point that I want to sell my twin disk so I can buy a stage 4 for my car.

Does anybody have any suggestions?

I am getting desperate.

 

Does anybody know what's wrong with my clutch or what I'm doing wrong?

 

To be honest no... I would say just go with a Tilton twin disc setup.. I dont have that problem and im sure others dont neither.. I know you dont feel like spending another $1,300-$1,400+ for an additional setup...... Dunno.. Jus trying to help.... I know the twin disc setup works....

 

Did you have to adjust anything on your car? Did you just install the twin disk and call it a day? Does your engine idle drop when you press the clutch pedal. Maybe this is normal and I'm just being a pussy and don't want to risk running it like that.

 

I'll probably just go with the CC stage 4 and call it a day. I don't want to ruin my engine again.

 

Thanks.

I'm gonna go and try to adjust it more see what happens.

 

Ok man... Let me know what happens

 

I adjusted the clutch pedal until I heard the clutch engage. From there I adjusted it until the gears would engage when the car was on.

When it's cold and it's idling high, the rpm's drop like 100 rpm's. When it's at regular idle at 800, if I push the clutch pedal quick all the way to the floor, the engine dies. If I push it slowly the rpm's drop to like 500. I'm begining to think it's my tune for some reason.