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Sludge, gunk, oil cleaning.

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4.3K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  kaytwentyfo  
#1 ·
Hello racers,

Just joined K gang recently and pick up a jdm k24A with rbb3 head, which I believe it’s equivalent to the 04-05 tsx in USDM.

the engine has been sitting for quite a long time and the oil becomes very thick and sluggish.

my question is: do you guys have any recommendation to clean up the oil?
the engine is out of the car so I can’t you know make the engine run, and use any flushing liquid.
And also, I’m tearing the entire engine apart, and the oils oil is very dense, not sure if there is a way to heat up these oil, or any thing….
Any tips or recommendation would be highly appreciated.

Thanks,
 
#4 ·
the easiest solution is to put in a thin oil such as a 0W20 or 5W30, or any other cheap oil with the engine standing upright.
then remove the spark plugs and apply 12V to the starter motor and engine case with a jump cable. Then bridge with a wire from the 12V terminal on the starter to the contact of the starter motor switch on top of it. The engine will then crank. Let the engine crank for a minute or two, check the oil and repeat. The drain the oil.
if you are still unhappy, repeat.

It will help if you warm up the engine block with a heater fan as this reduces viscosity.

Do not under any circumstances put a degreaser or water into the engine. The water will corrode your crank and you can scrap the engine. It is ok to use on the outside. But even then you need to oil coat all external iron parts or they will rust in no time.
 
#5 ·
the easiest solution is to put in a thin oil such as a 0W20 or 5W30, or any other cheap oil with the engine standing upright.
then remove the spark plugs and apply 12V to the starter motor and engine case with a jump cable. Then bridge with a wire from the 12V terminal on the starter to the contact of the starter motor switch on top of it. The engine will then crank. Let the engine crank for a minute or two, check the oil and repeat. The drain the oil.
if you are still unhappy, repeat.

It will help if you warm up the engine block with a heater fan as this reduces viscosity.

Do not under any circumstances put a degreaser or water into the engine. The water will corrode your crank and you can scrap the engine. It is ok to use on the outside. But even then you need to oil coat all external iron parts or they will rust in no time.
I planned on just try to find my way to remove the head from engine first and try to clean it by itself.
The block I planed on removing the pistol and all that then send the whole thing to machine shop.
I already removed almost everything already. water pump, water pump housing, intake, tensioner, fuel rail, the only thing still attach is the header :(
 
#6 ·
Engine shops have professional engine cleaning bays akin to a washing maschine or enclosed cabinet. They also have hot tanks for the block before and after machining.
I'd roughly clean it and drain the oil and doze stuff off with brake cleaner. The shop will do the rest for little extra with their equipment. It has to be done anyhow.
 
#12 ·
Hi Lotus, quick question for you, actually:
I’m trying to identify the version of my block. I read and have many different identifications.

the block itself has k24A stamped on it. I thought it was the high performance block from Japan, which is the same as k24a2 in the USDM, I was told. But I did some more research and find out that Japan also have k24A eco version which had weaker crank shaft and rod pistol … I’m only interested in the crank shaft since the performance one has forged one and I’m replacing piston, rod…. Anyways so I’m not too worry about those.

they point is I’m just trying to figure out if my k24A block is performance block or eco block.

Here are some details about the block:
The block has giant RAA on the bottom block. From what I was reading I was told all k24a2 has this
Also it has RBB-3 HF stamped on it.
intake manifold has RAA-5 05 stamped on it.

I’ll probably tear down the block even more this weekend and find out more info but for the time of being, will you able to identify which k24A version is this?
And thanks for helping around the forum :) you’re awesome 👏