Some heavy duty degreaser, a plastic bristle brush, and pressure washer or just hose nozzle will get it clean

 

I have 2 out 3. Thank you

 

the easiest solution is to put in a thin oil such as a 0W20 or 5W30, or any other cheap oil with the engine standing upright.
then remove the spark plugs and apply 12V to the starter motor and engine case with a jump cable. Then bridge with a wire from the 12V terminal on the starter to the contact of the starter motor switch on top of it. The engine will then crank. Let the engine crank for a minute or two, check the oil and repeat. The drain the oil.
if you are still unhappy, repeat.

It will help if you warm up the engine block with a heater fan as this reduces viscosity.

Do not under any circumstances put a degreaser or water into the engine. The water will corrode your crank and you can scrap the engine. It is ok to use on the outside. But even then you need to oil coat all external iron parts or they will rust in no time.

 

the easiest solution is to put in a thin oil such as a 0W20 or 5W30, or any other cheap oil with the engine standing upright.
then remove the spark plugs and apply 12V to the starter motor and engine case with a jump cable. Then bridge with a wire from the 12V terminal on the starter to the contact of the starter motor switch on top of it. The engine will then crank. Let the engine crank for a minute or two, check the oil and repeat. The drain the oil.
if you are still unhappy, repeat.

It will help if you warm up the engine block with a heater fan as this reduces viscosity.

Do not under any circumstances put a degreaser or water into the engine. The water will corrode your crank and you can scrap the engine. It is ok to use on the outside. But even then you need to oil coat all external iron parts or they will rust in no time.

I planned on just try to find my way to remove the head from engine first and try to clean it by itself.
The block I planed on removing the pistol and all that then send the whole thing to machine shop.
I already removed almost everything already. water pump, water pump housing, intake, tensioner, fuel rail, the only thing still attach is the header

 

Engine shops have professional engine cleaning bays akin to a washing maschine or enclosed cabinet. They also have hot tanks for the block before and after machining.
I'd roughly clean it and drain the oil and doze stuff off with brake cleaner. The shop will do the rest for little extra with their equipment. It has to be done anyhow.

 

and make sure you oil the crank and other iron bits such as cams etc. before shelving it. They will rust in minutes under certain conditions fully degreased.

 

should i use wd 40 after washing? or use compressed air and coat parts with oil.

 

wd40 is a bit thin as it is mainly kerosine. I’d apply a light coat of oil or mix some WD40 with engine oil. or wipe it with oil.

 

Ok, thanks for your help

 

You're welcome.

 

Hi Lotus, quick question for you, actually:
I’m trying to identify the version of my block. I read and have many different identifications.

the block itself has k24A stamped on it. I thought it was the high performance block from Japan, which is the same as k24a2 in the USDM, I was told. But I did some more research and find out that Japan also have k24A eco version which had weaker crank shaft and rod pistol … I’m only interested in the crank shaft since the performance one has forged one and I’m replacing piston, rod…. Anyways so I’m not too worry about those.

they point is I’m just trying to figure out if my k24A block is performance block or eco block.

Here are some details about the block:
The block has giant RAA on the bottom block. From what I was reading I was told all k24a2 has this
Also it has RBB-3 HF stamped on it.
intake manifold has RAA-5 05 stamped on it.

I’ll probably tear down the block even more this weekend and find out more info but for the time of being, will you able to identify which k24A version is this?
And thanks for helping around the forum you’re awesome 👏

 

Since you're tearing it down, easiest way to identify performance version is if the camshafts have 3 lobes per cylinder on each side:

 

I don’t know to much about K24 variants, but all 200HP variants of the K-series have this 3-lobe cam system as posted above.

 

Omg, duh, i already have the cover open, I'll take a look tomorrow, thanks!

 

Just check, 3 lobes on both sides. Thanks for your help Lotus