Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum banner

Rbc vs skunk2 intake manifold

45K views 59 replies 22 participants last post by  flesh199  
#1 · (Edited)
Ok so i bought a bought a k20z3 motor and it came with both the Skunk2 and RBC Manifold. My question is for people that have had personal or know someone that has had personal experience with them. Which manifold is better? i dont want people saying that skunk2 manifold isnt worth the money.. i dont care i got both with my motor and im jsut undecided on which 1 to use.


Thanks -andrew
 
#2 ·
Skunk2 isn't worth the money.








Sorry, couldn't help it:). Why don't you ask the previous owner of the engine which manifold worked best on this motor? S2 will lose in the midrange but make more peak hp than RBC. Several dyno tests have shown this over the years...mostly on k24s. I think the midrange loss will be much worse on a k20.
 
#4 ·
Previous owner never got the car tuned. The only tests ive seen were on stock motors and if im not mistaken stock throttle body. What about with a cam and a bigger 70mm throttle body shouldn't the skunk2 manifold preform better since it can move more air and is a plenum stlye manifold ?
 
#16 ·
Not having the money and not wanting to throw away money is completely two different things..





RBC > *

It's the best manifold you can use for a stock or mostly stock motor. Street build? RBC.


What about with nitrous , SC or even turbo? would you still recommend the rbc over it? my plans for now are to keep the motor stock but who knows if i decide to bump up the compression the following year.




RRC (if you can get a hold of it)> all.:nod:

Threadstarter,

Since you have both take a look at the ports lol that will answer your question which one to use

Yeah.. the only thing is the skunk2 is the 1 thats on the motor already so if i take it ill probably just end up using the rbc lol.




More input welcomed !!
 
#22 ·
^lol, you want ppl's opinion but its just that, a opinion. nobody will be able to tell you which maifold will make most power on "your" motor. and btw you can dyno both. it takes all of 15min to swap that manifold out on the dyno and prob a extra 30min to a hour of dyno time(about $75hr around here). thats the only way to truely find out which of the two will make more power on your motor.
 
#30 ·
$75-100 a hour for dyno time, then whatever tuner is gonna charge you for tuning. there is only one dyno in Tallahasee and you bring tuner, unless its a domestic car as thats what the shop specialize in.
 
#29 ·
Seriously, get tuned with one of them, swap in the other and do a pull and see what the results are. If the A/F is off in places on the second pull, then put 15 minutes into tweaking that version of the tune for that manifold. It is not like you'll need to completely retune as the difference between these manifolds is not that huge.

So for the cost of 15 minutes on the dyno (at most), you could contribute real information to this site rather than basking in the glory of its collective opinion. The dyno link above was for a K24/K20 Frank, so you would be doing the community a service by trying it on your K20--and yourself as well.
 
#31 ·
Sounds kinda like you are leaning towards the Skunk2 anyway. If you plan on going past basic bolt ons, I'd say to stick with the Skunk2, I think it's shown to make a little bit more power up top which is what you want if you are racing the car, keeping it in the upper RPM range.
 
#35 ·
I'll give my opinion on the optimal set up for this manifold on a stock short block:
Overcam the motor with a stage 3 cam, open intake with velocity stack, and custom (aka ASP, SSR, Burns, etc) open header or short/straight 3" exhaust. Rev it to 9000-9500 rpm. I am certain you will make power over the RBC...but the midrange (2000-5000 rpm) will leave alot to be desired. Bumping the compression (Arias pistons 12.5:1 pistons would be a cheap upgrade) will help to fill in the midrange torque losses.

This is my educated guess predicated on a basic understanding of how/where these motors make power on various set ups. I have no personal experience with this manifold and my understanding may be biased or incorrect based on the available dyno charts circulating the web.
 
#36 ·
Would be retarded to overcam a motor and rev the piss out of it just to use a manifold unless it's strictly a drag motor which obv isn't the case here.

Buy a K24 block before you think of building a K20 high comp n/a block for simple street use unless the K20 is for boost.
 
#43 · (Edited)
K20A:
-2157 CC (F22 CRANK/87MM CP XF/CUSTOM RODS)
-TODA A3
-12.9/13 compr.
-76MM EXHAUST
-CUSTOM HEADER
-90MM CAI CUSTOM
-70mm t/b
-K-PRO

With ported rbc
Image

With skunk2 pro a
Image


PORTED RBC VS SKUNK 2 PRO.

Image



And one more test with s90 74mm t/b and the engine lost 20ps from 5000 to 9300rpm
For this setup 70mm it's the best choice