Nice! I'm looking forward to more info!

Good work so far! Keep it up!

 

Oil filter adapter came in today, its sold as part of the kit but was back-ordered

Got the engine out tonite. Wasnt planning on doing that till tommorow but i uad some help so the work went quick.

 

:up:

 

Nice... Em2 is the way to go

 

Nice but im wondering why this is being done is it just for looks , were you in need of as dry sump oil system. Seems like a ton of work and money for a oiling system that works just fine for the most part. Dont take this the wrong way Im just curious what the issues were with the k20 oil system? It looks pretty good I will say that. Where are you mounting the tank.

 

The reason i went with the dry sump is for higher rpm limit and for horsepower gain thanks to crank case vacuum. Also for looks (being able to cover up the dipstick and oil filler on the valve cover). Also I have never worked on a dry sump engine so i wanted to try something new.

nice dry sump, off topic but whats the jegs thing on driver side of bay? brake porportion valve? and is that TB a k20TB upside down? if so what purpose for it being upside down. thx

Yes the jegs thing is an adjustable prop. Valve which i added gauges to and yes its a stock k20a3 throttle body flipped 180 degrees i did that to hide the sensors and to move the throttle cable so it would run under the turbo rather than over. Haveing it upside down also makes it easier to get to the idle adjustment screw.

 

nice dry sump, off topic but whats the jegs thing on driver side of bay? brake porportion valve? and is that TB a k20TB upside down? if so what purpose for it being upside down. thx

 

stock oil pump

stock oil pump taken off

the studs for the stock oil pan are too short to be used with the new oil pan so they will need to be removed. Also i'll need to get longer screws for the new pan.

test fit the pan

#5 cam tower and rocker shafts ready to be shipped out for fifth cam tower oil upgrade

 

stock oil pump

stock oil pump taken off

the studs for the stock oil pan are too short to be used with the new oil pan so they will need to be removed. Also i'll need to get longer screws for the new pan.

test fit the pan

#5 cam tower and rocker shafts ready to be shipped out for fifth cam tower oil upgrade

Where are you sending that too and how much?

 

Oh I see its mainly for looks that's cool. An s2000 pump will flow oil over 9000 rpm that's what we use. I've never seen this setup done for a street car

 

9,000 is a high rpm but I'm aiming for 10,000. Definetly not with a stock k20a3 but the plan is to get a built engine once the oil system, methanol system, and all the other peripheral systems are working corectly.

 

Just out of curiosity if you don't mind me asking. How much was the Aviaid kit? Is the damper required? Whats the pn for the kit? Can't find much on it.

 

The kit is sold by blueprint, the damper is required bacause the drive pully bolts to it. The kit was 2796.99 and the pulley wat 386.99 it also requires the water pump delete plate which i already had. Bp3stgdsp is the kit p/n.

 

good stuff here man, looks nice:up:

I depth'd the oil pan bolts n got stuff from arp. Might as well go with the good stuff if you're at it. I cant remember what length I got, sorry dood.

what are you gonna do to the VC? I never thought of shaving/filling it like you mentioned, I was just gonna use a cap and a cut dipstick still. give no clues it had sump, but now you got me thinking.

you think about maybe using an rdx valve cover? its a lil different

 

I'm going to use the rsx VC just cuz I ike that it says "honda motor co." I'm going to machine some plates to fit over the dip stick and oil filler then weld them in and grind it down so it looks like nothing was ever there. It should look really clean. as for the bolts, I'm going to find some from somewere else on the engine or car that are the propper length then order enough to do the whole oil pan.

Good info so far on the thread.

I emailed Blueprint a couple of days ago about this kit as i just noticed it on their site. Need to wait until they are back and able to reply to emails though.

Do you have to delete the stock water pump?

I'm using power steering too. Do you know if i can retain this with their kit?

I'm looking for a dry sump kit for a K20A2 in an EG chassis and I've noticed that the Pace kit appears to offer better ground clearance as their sump is shallower than the Blueprint sump. This is the main reason for me going dry sump as i've already cracked one sump and never want that to happen again. The car is going lower soon on revised suspension setup so for me it seems that dry sump is the only way forward.

yes, the mechanical water pump needs to go. and I dont know if its possible to keep power steering If I remember correctly the power steering pump mounts to the water pump so its probably not possible... I agree that it looks like the Pace kit will let the car sit lower but i dont have any measurements to back that up... I can get some pics of the pump and pan mounted later.

 

Good info so far on the thread.

I emailed Blueprint a couple of days ago about this kit as i just noticed it on their site. Need to wait until they are back and able to reply to emails though.

Do you have to delete the stock water pump?

I'm using power steering too. Do you know if i can retain this with their kit?

I'm looking for a dry sump kit for a K20A2 in an EG chassis and I've noticed that the Pace kit appears to offer better ground clearance as their sump is shallower than the Blueprint sump. This is the main reason for me going dry sump as i've already cracked one sump and never want that to happen again. The car is going lower soon on revised suspension setup so for me it seems that dry sump is the only way forward.

 

What email address did you send your email to? I have not seen an email... if you dont mind re-sending it, please send it to duckiller01@gmail.com

Kyle already had a the water pump delete but its not necessary to switch over to an electric pump, you may see additional gains/ bennifits but thats only if you dont mind complicating things or spending a little more.

There is a picture in this album https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.261832067194291.67224.172934779417354&type=1&l=60daacdb7f (10th. one down) that shows how the pump would fit using an OEM water pump housing. The pump in the picture is not the same but it is similar and should give you an idea of how things sit.

Power steering is mounted up top and does not present any problems seeing how its out of the way and driven by a common belt as the water pump.

 

I plan on running the karcepts kit/mr2 electric PS pump with my setup for those worried about fitment issues with this stuff. Solves a lotta problems:up:

Good stuff Robert:up:

 

That's how I am too. I prefer to get all the little knick knacks working before going all out. It makes trouble shooting a lot easier. You have everything working now, make one change at a time rather than 10 new changes.

Looking great so far.

 

So i test fit the pump again, this time out of the car. Heres what i found.

With the ati damper installed the belt is too long to be tightened due to the damper's diameter being smaller than the stock k20a3.

the alternator runs out of space between its bottom and the top of the pump very easily while being adjusted.

the old spacers i made to get that belt to fit.

used some washers and nuts to figure out what size i needed the new spacers to be.

This is the amount of space between the alternator and pump with the belt tight with the new spacers.

 

Why are you worried about having the belt tight when it looks like you'll need to run an entirely new belt to compensate for the external oil pump pulley anyway? Or did I miss something?

This is a really cool install, interested to see more.

 

The oil pump pulley will run off another belt. This is driven from another pulley
that bolts to the ATI unit.

K20yle: Thanks for putting these pictures up. Interesting thread.

 

So sick. Cant wait to see more.

 

this is sick. :up:

 

Sweet, and that also answered my other lingering question regarding ensuring a belt that would have been looped like that was tight enough to not slip. Cool, interested to see more for sure.

 

seems like a ton of work to me with No real world gains at all and alot more potential problems. But thats just my opinion. Ive never seen this done Im still wondering what the benefits are from this? please enlighten me

 

Yea it is a ton of work, you are correct about that. But as far as there being no gains you are wrong. First off creating vacuum in the crankcase will seal the rings better to the pistons. This will have multiple benefits leading to higher hp. Secondly the dry sump oil pump will not cavitate untill +5000rpm. With a 2:1 ratio on the pulley this will give you a maximum rpm of 10,000rpm. Which can easily be raised simply by changeing the belt size and pulley (not that an engine can be built as easily but at least you wont have to worry about the oil pump). Theres a whole list of other reason why dry sumps are superior and i have done literally months of research to be sure that it wont be wasted time, effort, or money. The thing to realize is that not every single upgrade you do is going to make huge h.p. Gains (i am expecting to see a 20hp gain from this) but at the end of all this i will have a safer, stronger engine which is built to withstand more of a beating than i will be giveing it. And besides i enjoy doing the work.

 

No real world gains? I think its best that you google the topic as the explanation is lengthy and will surely bring rise to a host of additional questions that will end up needing to be answered.

As for the questions surrounding the belt and how its driven... here is a picture of how it all looks installed. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...fbid=268558426521655&set=a.261832067194291.67224.172934779417354&type=3&theater

 

Todays project was to drill out and tap the hole the was used to bring oil from the stock oil pump to the various parts of the engine. It needs to be blocked off so that oil will not come pouring out now that its being fed from somewere else.

here you can see the hole that needs to be blocked off ( just left of the nearest crank bearing stud)

by sprayin wd40 into this hole after drilling and taping you will clean out any residual chips. I drilled and taped with the engine rite side up so chips would fall out of the hole rather than falling deeper in if i had rotated it 180 degrees on the engine stand.

this is a pic of how many chips the wd40 flushed out. Just shows how important it is to do.

heres the hole blocked off. It was drilled with a letter "g" drill and tapped M8x1.25 aproximately 1.375" deep.

this is were i stole that bolt from. It was from the bottom of the intake manifold support brace. I have a new one on order from honda to replace it.

More good stuff.

 

Looking good
Do you have to alter the belt tension by using shims behind the pump
Dry sumps are great bits of kit but expensive to install and a pain to properly change oil,on my other engine everything was a custom install and works flawlessly

 

Yea. The pump uses shims to adjust the tension of the belt. Its not my favorite but it pretty much the standard for dry sumps with the exception of a few companies.

 

New alternator spacers .825 diamter 1.15 long M11 hole thru

new spacers installed

new screws picked out for the oil pan.

new oil pan screws come from here. Ordered 16 from honda yesterday.

 

Never actually seen this done by an individual, nice work man. Reliability and longevity are something always overlooked, this is an investment for the long haul not to mention the additional clearance factor which prob is not an issue for you being an em2.

On another note, i seem to remember a couple of k20 swapped em2's with ep3 electric power steering racks, white ones, one of which was for sale recently and a mag feature. I could be wrong but it you ever wanted that luxury in might be something to explore.

 

Na, my car has not been featured in any mags. Recently or ever. and if ur asking if the cars for sale, no it isnt but if you show up at my house with a 2012 lambo or farrari i might consider doing an even trade. Lol

 

Hey Kyle, I can really appreciate the detail you are putting in on this project... it will surely help us when we go to sell one in the future. Having said that and for the sake of information, I just wanted to let you know that the whole you plugged is not a pressurized oil galley, its a drain for the oil that goes into the tensioner.

Take a piece of wire or welding rod and you can stick it through the multiple passages to find out where they start/ end or intersect. For future reference... all oil from the oem pump goes straight to the oil filter.

Good work :up:

 

Oo ok, that makes much more sense. I thought the hole seemed a little small to feed the whole engine. Thanks for the corection :up: