small hose goes to the throttle body. its capped on my car!

 

Is it for the idle air control valve

 

If you are referring to the long metal tube...yes you can cap that off. But be aware that you will run into over heating issues because that pipe carries hot water from the cylinder head back to the thermostat which allows the thermostat to open when you first crank your car. Otherwise, your coolant will not circulate and the engine over heats.

If you delete that tube, you will either have to drill holes through the tstat or just delete the tstat all together...using a "low temp" t stat will not fix the problem because the t stat will not see hot enough temps to open without that flow circulating back from the head.

 

So then since I am not using my heater would I then just loop then.

 

So was I correct that you are wanting to delete the metal tube? If so, I don't know what you mean by loop it? It's not like a power steering rack.

You have hot water that leaves the cylinder head near the IACV and is then carried to the t stat to open it to allow coolant to circulate once the motor warms up.

I capped the heater pipe off and tapped the cylinder head for a water temp gauge. If this is a K24a2 or k20z3, you can use the new Hybrid Racing upper coolant neck for a really clean result.
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109368

 

K20z3

I meant leave the metal tube and then loop it at the end with the other hose that is supposed to go to the heater core. I will leave the other hose the way it is that goes to the underside of the intake manifold. I was just trying to get rid of that metal tube that goes all the way around to the back the black one in the picture

 

I am getting a tucked radiator with 16an fitting so I am going with the ktuned version with the optional filler neck, and then I will just loop the lines for the Iacv. The long metal tube just is kind of in the way of being clean so I figured it just went to the heater but I wasn't sure.

 

why can you not delete the metal line that goes to the heater core blackn decker? is'nt coolant recir. from the head via the rubber hose that goes from tstat housing to the intake manifold(k24a2/k20z3) and or the upper coolant housing(k20a2/z1). i know on my k20z1 i do not have the hardline. and my k24a2 has a rubber hose as well that connects to the head. k-tuned sells a bracket/cap for oem tstat housing to block it off. that metal coolant hardline does even connect to the head on my k24a2.

 

you can take the metal hard line off and plug the back of the head. you will not overheat. heep the rubber hose that goes from the intake manifold (z3) or the upper neck on a k20 that goes to the t stat


k tuned sell the head plug and the rubber plug to replace the hardline. it just comes out no cutting required

 

Ok thank you

 

Wow I was just about to ask this same question tonight as I cut and capped the hardline just past the first small barb for the iac as I need coolant to cool my Turbo .But I also wondered about the need for coolant to go back in to the cyl head at the back .Does anyone know where to get a plug , a "metal " plug to thread into the hole in the back of the cyl head ? I don't trust putting a rubber cap on it if I can find some sort of metal plug to thread in there .

 

thanks silver for pointing us in the right direction
http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Heater-Outlet-Plug-for-K20AA2Z1-cyl-Head_p_39.html

 

This is the heater hose delete I used:
https://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/mobile/OEM-Thermostat-Housing-Plug-Bracket_p_174.html

As I said earlier, my car would over heat within 5 minutes of cranking it. We filled the radiator under vacuum pressure so that wasn't an issue. The only thing that finally fixed my issue was removing the t-stat allowing the coolant to circulate. Everything on my motor was brand new...no old or used parts.

 

that part has been out for a long time and probably on 1000+ cars. 4 people close to me have had that plugged with no over heating issues

 

So how did you get your t stat to open after capping that port? I must have forgotten a step then...maybe there is another line/hose to route hot fluid to prime the t stat on start up?

Maybe this issue is more common on k20z3 and 06+ k24a2??

 

There is still the rubber line that brings coolant from the head to the t stat

 

Do the RBC and 06+ RBB heads also have that additional line? I used an 06 RSX t stat and the K-tuned upper coolant neck...never saw a place to run another line from my head

 

edit nm sicksilver answered it.

 

So I used this k-tuned upper coolant plate...I ran an AN plug and threaded a water temp sensor instead of the recirculating port and I capped both ports off the t stat. I guess this was the source of my failure of the t stat to open and circulate coolant

 

are you running a oem lower tstat housing? and a uncut intake manifold? if yes to both just run a rubber line off the hose barb on the tstat housing to the intake manifold.

 

I have that hose running from t stat to the manifold.

Car runs and idles fine currently with t stat deleted.

 

i have ran multiple cars without tstats and never had a issue, except no heat hardly in winter.

 

Good to know...I deleted all the heater and AC related components from my car.:up:

 

come to think of it my friends k20z3 is setup exactly like yours and has no overheating problems. it has the k tuned billet side neck and the thermo capped off for the heater line and still has the rubber line.

 

Lol...then I don't know what the fuck was wrong with it. The compression test was a little on the low side but still within normal. Motor only has 15,xxx miles.

 

are you running oem tstat housing or k tuned? i have k tuned lower t stat housing and was having issues with tstat. removed it and no overheating. there was a thread i saw where more than one person had issues with tstat in ktuned lower tstat housing. if oem have you tried a diff tstat?

 

I bought a brand new OEM RSX t stat housing. The t stat was also brand new....I hit the t stat with a torch and the spring mechanism was working fine. So I don't think the problem was with the t stat or coolant...just seems like the only other possibility was not enough heat getting to the t stat because the heater hose was deleted.

 

Whats the reasoning behind modding the housing/plumbing? I see there's a good handful of options available through K-Tuned.

 

i've seen this issue and yes, i'd drill the thermostat to cure it as well.

 

I knew I wasn't crazy:shades: