Have you blocked up the rest of the frontal area around the other half? Any openings in the front that go into the engine bay will reduce you radiator efficiency.

 

Hello, I have my intercooler blocking the front of the radiator other than that I have nothing else that’s blocking any front portions of the car

 

you need to consider the entire air path from the front of the car all the way to the exit. Especially the front has areas of positive and areas of negative pressure.
Then as mentioned above, you need to guide that air where you want it to go.
Air does NOT want to go though radiators if there is even a 1/2" gap it can bypass the radiators.
Then you need to ensure that the air can also exit the engine bay at a negative pressure area, e.g. though the bottom.
if the bottom of the area between intercooler and radiator is open, you literally suck away your cooling air before it even passes the radiator.

 

here are some starting points

Conference paper: AERODYNAMIC ANALYSIS OF A CONCEPT CAR MODEL

Pressure distribution around a car.

 

Thank you I will watch these videos when I get out of work.

 

We've got a CSF full size and my temps are almost too cold. Fan never gets to kick on unless sitting for a while or on 100 degree days. Single spal fan. k24 turbo Ej8.
On my D series I had the standard triple core half size and it would over heat on hot days even with a shrouded spal, but also the manifold/tubes were right next to rad.

 

I was looking at a csf full radiator as well but was wondering what hose would go to the bottom inlet, what hose do you have? My thermostat is the style that points towards the drivers side not pointing down, also what size fan are you running? Do you have a fan shroud? Or no shroud? Thank you.

 

Triple core rads are flow restrictive for both air and coolant. They often only work well at speed.

 

especially with how small the half size radiator is already.. They work well for the D and B series engines stock but not for turbo setups, a custom fit tucked radiator pushed towards the bumper would work better.

 

@Lotus First of all, thanks for the links to the videos! Very informative and a really good place to start. I've been battling cooling issues on my EG since I built it the first time around. I've since then rebuilt the car from the ground up. Bumper off, cools wonderfully, bumper on however, it creeps to the point the fan is running constantly no matter the speed. Granted, it does eventually level out but I still don't think it's as efficient as it could and should be. I'm going to try to make some sort of ducting and see how that helps before I resort to cutting holes in the bumper to get more airflow. I am still unsure of how to go about ducting from a intercooler to a half-size radiator. I'm running B series, and If I duct that then the turbo, downpipe, and manifold get no air. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I've also thought of making an undertray so I at least have a low pressure zone behind the radiator for the time being until I get a splitter. I'm trying to get everything dialed in on the car before doing any aero and throwing more variables into the mix

Also, nice to see an active post, I haven't stumbled upon on in years.

 

 

If you can plan the path of air on the front end of your car, I'm sure it's possible to make some baffling or ducting to encourage the air to go the right way.

My case is far simpler, with a chase bays rad and no IC, but I built some baffling over the winter from fiberglass (nothing fancy, just basic CSM and dyed resin) and they have been great on the track so far!

Took a few hours in the garage to make, and they weigh about 5oz each so not adding much weight. Thermoformed some ABS over the frontend contours and used them as molds. I used clothing storage vacuum bags to get excess resin out, but you could honestly hand lay something like this if you don't mind a few extra ounces of weight.

--Matt

 

Besides the ducting, you may add an addition radiator in the number in front of the TC. With all the insulation, not much cooling happens anyhow. OEMs put a chimney around the exhaust header and TC to guide air around these and vent it off to the top. Example is the Opel Speedster build by Lotus at the time based on the Eluse, but with a GM 2l turbo engine mid mounted. TC is wedged between engine and fire wall to the interior.

 

The B series turbo stuff has always been terrible for cooling packaging. I had a difficult time with my evo 8 turbo'd B18B1 before I went to a K. A few thing to consider would be where there's space to out a cooler. A few spots I would think would be to move everything as far forward as possible. There's also two really good areas in front of the wheels that can fit auxiliary water and/or oil coolers if it came down to it. I realize the intercooler piping goes there, but it's something to consider. Stare at it long enough and I bet you can find a way. Most likely, you'll need a custom solution.

 

here are some starting points

Conference paper: AERODYNAMIC ANALYSIS OF A CONCEPT CAR MODEL

Pressure distribution around a car.

View attachment 117091

This link is dope. I can't wait to dive into it when I have time to read.

Besides the ducting, you may add an addition radiator in the number in front of the TC. With all the insulation, not much cooling happens anyhow. OEMs put a chimney around the exhaust header and TC to guide air around these and vent it off to the top. Example is the Opel Speedster build by Lotus at the time based on the Eluse, but with a GM 2l turbo engine mid mounted. TC is wedged between engine and fire wall to the interior.
View attachment 117165

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