I have a p0171 system too lean code and I'm not sure what is the cause. I have a deatschwerks 300 I haven't installed yet, do you think it would fix the problem?
system too lean
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phoenix5
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ecu got code for tps too low now but idle is consistent and there is no hesitation anywhere in the rpm band so i know all the issues with idle and hesitation are due to the tps. The ktuned sensor is ordered and shipped.
other stuff in the pipe as well, eps, type s dash, door panels, and center console, air conditioning
other stuff in the pipe as well, eps, type s dash, door panels, and center console, air conditioning
Joined
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111 Posts
Almost good to go. I just parted out a full RSX type S if your still looking for parts
I need the latch for the glove box and the radio bezel. Any panels that go on the underside of the dash. Seats if you can give em to me dirt cheap and they are black. Spare rim? Looking for one that matches the rims I have. Honestly though I have alot of projects to work on for my car at the moment and need to catch up before doing more. But let me know what you got. Sun visors maybe and the floor hooks for the drivers side mat
![Image]()
125.99 on ebay shipped.
Item#
301051672901
125.99 on ebay shipped.
Item#
301051672901
Well the tps is on there. I got stuck in some soft dirt and car died several times with my process of getting free, wore the clutch out some and killed the battery. Took a day before the battery went toast completely because same night I took her to every bit of 140 but I shifted to 6 before red line in 5th. She felt like she would have given a bit more had I stayed in fifth.
Next day battery was dead. Push started her. I had to drive with the battery shorting internally and basically ran off the alternator but it was like the electrical power kept going off and on like pulsing dc which I assumed was either due to running off the alternator or because the battery was shorting out internally. I had pc680 and replaced it with etx20l
I think the o2 relay couldve been toasted, maybe the o2 itself from the electrical pulsation. It threw several codes before I replaced the battery, p1166 p0141 heater circuit and I got the p0505 idle air code. No idea what to do about p0505. Damn hesitation crap is back. It was running good before I the battery went.
![Image]()
Next day battery was dead. Push started her. I had to drive with the battery shorting internally and basically ran off the alternator but it was like the electrical power kept going off and on like pulsing dc which I assumed was either due to running off the alternator or because the battery was shorting out internally. I had pc680 and replaced it with etx20l
I think the o2 relay couldve been toasted, maybe the o2 itself from the electrical pulsation. It threw several codes before I replaced the battery, p1166 p0141 heater circuit and I got the p0505 idle air code. No idea what to do about p0505. Damn hesitation crap is back. It was running good before I the battery went.
Not getting any tps codes but still getting p0505 and today I got the p1298 eld code. Actually there was one tps code for tps too low which I thought was bogus but I re calibrated it to .45 and scan tool reads about 3% throttle but ive read that it should read about 10% so considering setting it to .49 or .5, since it must be calibrated with ignition on I could watch the scan tool readout, just thought of that.
I went so far as to order a used iacv and cleaned it up good but didnt remove the motor which couldve been an error on my part in order to clean it even more.
I deleted the cold idle assist valve too.
Installed sun auto hyper ground wires.
Redid power and ground for eps, have gotten an actual ep3 rack but not yet installed it. Eps is off and on with current rack but improved when I redid the power and ground wiring.
I think my coolant is not bled properly but I dont have a lisle funnel.
However when I deleted the cold assist valve I installed a air compressor tank pressure relief valve to help bleed air since that spot is highest in the cooling system. It doesnt leak at all but im curious whether or not its working backwards and letting air into the system. If the motor is cold i can pull on the relief and air will hiss out of it, if the motor is warm coolant will squirt out when I pull it. If I relieve pressure when cold and wait a while I can pull it again and more air will hiss out, is it normal for air to build up in a cold motor?
I dont have any coolant leaks I can see or detect and my exhaust is not spewing any smoke, nothing visible to me anyway and she runs like a champ except the occasional hesitation from the ecu fucking around because of the idle air control issue.
I have a sniper motorsports plug from jegs to truely block off the cold assist port.
The coolant may be the cause of the idle issues but I really am not sure it would throw the p0505 code if the coolant level was off.
Ive considered replacing the pcv valve.
I will get more coolant into her tonight and do another idle learn procedure.
If that doesnt work I will replace the pcv valve and take the iacv motor off the mechanical part and clean the shit out of the whole thing this time and also lube it up but use 3-in-1 oil instead of spray lithium like I did on my old iacv.
Thoughts, Suggestions?
Freeze Frame Data
![Image]()
Last PID Values:
![Image]()
I went so far as to order a used iacv and cleaned it up good but didnt remove the motor which couldve been an error on my part in order to clean it even more.
I deleted the cold idle assist valve too.
Installed sun auto hyper ground wires.
Redid power and ground for eps, have gotten an actual ep3 rack but not yet installed it. Eps is off and on with current rack but improved when I redid the power and ground wiring.
I think my coolant is not bled properly but I dont have a lisle funnel.
However when I deleted the cold assist valve I installed a air compressor tank pressure relief valve to help bleed air since that spot is highest in the cooling system. It doesnt leak at all but im curious whether or not its working backwards and letting air into the system. If the motor is cold i can pull on the relief and air will hiss out of it, if the motor is warm coolant will squirt out when I pull it. If I relieve pressure when cold and wait a while I can pull it again and more air will hiss out, is it normal for air to build up in a cold motor?
I dont have any coolant leaks I can see or detect and my exhaust is not spewing any smoke, nothing visible to me anyway and she runs like a champ except the occasional hesitation from the ecu fucking around because of the idle air control issue.
I have a sniper motorsports plug from jegs to truely block off the cold assist port.
The coolant may be the cause of the idle issues but I really am not sure it would throw the p0505 code if the coolant level was off.
Ive considered replacing the pcv valve.
I will get more coolant into her tonight and do another idle learn procedure.
If that doesnt work I will replace the pcv valve and take the iacv motor off the mechanical part and clean the shit out of the whole thing this time and also lube it up but use 3-in-1 oil instead of spray lithium like I did on my old iacv.
Thoughts, Suggestions?
Freeze Frame Data
Last PID Values:
I have the exact same problem and idk where to start
Hello and welcome,
best to open a new thread with your specific problem. This thread is 10+ years old and 67# postings log.
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