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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Not even paying attention to the skunk2 ultra street...but how would an oem K20 manifold be an overkill on a K20 engine? It's sort of...designed specifically for it. :wwhat:
Exactly ChildStar.. I don't think this person knows what he's talking about.. I've met several people with the Skunk2 manifold and are producing good numbers
 
Not even paying attention to the skunk2 ultra street...but how would an oem K20 manifold be an overkill on a K20 engine? It's sort of...designed specifically for it. :wwhat:
I know what I am talking about. Properly retuned car on stock parts will not benefit from changing RRC/RBC into anything else. It is because on fully stock car intake manifold is not the restricting part. Intake is, but not the intake manifold. Header is, but not the manifold. If you change your intake to CAI, change your TB, change your header, then yes intake manifold could in some point become the restriction. Thas is why I wrote "overkill".

The same thing is with RBC/RSP heads. Despite they are designed for K20, as you CHILD wrote, they are an overkill for stock setup. They can manage soo much more flow that is needed for stock K20, that they become restriction when you have K24 frank or K20 with high comp pistins that revs to 9500 rpm.

This is the way Honda makes things. Their part just have so much space to push to the limits. And I think this is the main reason most people that tune cars love Honda for.
 
...If you change your intake to CAI, change your TB, change your header, then yes intake manifold could in some point become the restriction. Thas is why I wrote "overkill".
I agree with you deibral, the stock induction path is pretty killing ponies, we saw up to 11 ponies at peak power shifting from stock induction to a proper CAI system on an elsewhere complete stock K-series engine.

As you have said, once the obstacles are sorted out, e.g. like the stock induction, next steps are of great value. At Frankenstein engines, those 99 mm stroke engines need much more air volume flow to get the same VE = higher gas speed in the air path. Consequently next obstacles come up, here the intake manifold once the Frankenstein engine speed rises over stock and cams (aftermarket) open the valves much more longer to be able to power at those engine speeds than IM get a restriction like the head ports too...it is a step by step development necessary in accordance to the power/torque goal.

But yes, the last step doesn't make sense to be done at the beginning of that long road to more torque everywhere. I believe we all have the same view on that point and aboves discussion is just a misunderstanding.

This is the way Honda makes things. Their part just have so much space to push to the limits. And I think this is the main reason most people that tune cars love Honda for.
Yes :D.

Markus
 
I still dont see the stock intake manifold as "overkill".....i simply see it as it's not OPTIMIZED when all other parts are stock as well. Overkill, would mean the intake manifold is unfit to function properly. I see overkill as a part that would require internal modification to perform better than the oem counterpart.

I also think our depiction of "stock" engine was different. I was referring to the engine itself being internally stock and assuming the basic bolt on modifications are being used. I don't recall the last time I've seen a K series vehicle using 100% stock parts without the car being driven off the manufacturers lot.
 
Hey i needed some advice too so I have a 2006 rsx base with the k20a3 motor I just recently put new exhaust with Invidia Cat-backs with Dc sports race headers and I also swapped the throttle and intake manifold with the skunk2 intake manifold with 70mm everything went on perfectly except for 2 senors that were originally on old intake manifold the big ugly plastic intake and i dont know where to put the 2 senors or how to make the computer to stop reading those senors i believe they are IMRC senors or the IACV? Could really use some professional advice because every time i start my car now it always revs at 2000rpm and wont go down unless i slowly release the clutch which is bad because im basically riding the clutch just so it will not rev high
 
Hey i needed some advice too so I have a 2006 rsx base with the k20a3 motor I just recently put new exhaust with Invidia Cat-backs with Dc sports race headers and I also swapped the throttle and intake manifold with the skunk2 intake manifold with 70mm everything went on perfectly except for 2 senors that were originally on old intake manifold the big ugly plastic intake and i dont know where to put the 2 senors or how to make the computer to stop reading those senors i believe they are IMRC senors or the IACV? Could really use some professional advice because every time i start my car now it always revs at 2000rpm and wont go down unless i slowly release the clutch which is bad because im basically riding the clutch just so it will not rev high
do you have an engine management and what throttle body are you using
 
Welcome PakiRsx to the best K20 Forum :D.

...k20a3 motor...with Invidia Cat-backs with Dc sports race headers...skunk2 intake manifold with 70mm everything
Will you swap the A3 valvetrain for a K20A2 one or better for a A2 head? The A3 is the economic version valvetrain pendant, restricting your actual VE lift through IM and CAI almost to zero improvement.

...except for 2 senors that were originally on old intake manifold the big ugly plastic intake and i dont know where to put the 2 senors...
Do you have a picture of them?

Markus
 
Welcome PakiRsx to the best K20 Forum :D.

Will you swap the A3 valvetrain for a K20A2 one or better for a A2 head? The A3 is the economic version valvetrain pendant, restricting your actual VE lift through IM and CAI almost to zero improvement.

Do you have a picture of them?

Markus
I dont have a picture but your saying if change the cams and valves it will stop the high idling?
 
Welcome PakiRsx to the best K20 Forum :D.

Will you swap the A3 valvetrain for a K20A2 one or better for a A2 head? The A3 is the economic version valvetrain pendant, restricting your actual VE lift through IM and CAI almost to zero improvement.

Do you have a picture of them?

Markus
Ill take a picture and upload it here tomorrow and show you if anything
 
I dont have a picture but your saying if change the cams and valves it will stop the high idling?
No. Idle speed control need engine speed sensor information, MAP control via IACV over ECU, Ignition timing control via ECU. So it is very likely you did not mount (or not right) the IACV as you already guessed.

Did you plug the IACV correctly? Do you know what does it mean and how it should looks like?

Markus
 
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