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Well it doesn't seme to have been fixed now. Ive gotten the p1166 code to go away and its not stuck at 10.7:1 anymore, but I still have these AWFULLY high A/F ratios, which even adding 10% overall doesn't help! im like 28:1 at idle lol..

take a look.heres the log and kal
I have the same problem going on right now with my kpro although I don't have any codes. it will read 10.7:1 till the wideband sensor I assume gets warm enough then shoots up to 28:1 30:1 I add fuel to the map and none of the changes take effect.
ive replaced everything that could contribute to a lean condition. bought a brand new oxygen sensor(denso) aswell same shit.:coleman:
last thing I can assume to be bad is kpro and that's what path im headed into now.:fuuu:
 
I have the same problem going on right now with my kpro although I don't have any codes. it will read 10.7:1 till the wideband sensor I assume gets warm enough then shoots up to 28:1 30:1 I add fuel to the map and none of the changes take effect.
ive replaced everything that could contribute to a lean condition. bought a brand new oxygen sensor(denso) aswell same shit.:coleman:
last thing I can assume to be bad is kpro and that's what path im headed into now.:fuuu:
Having the same issue on my k swap...did you get this sorted? As a side note, my harness from hybrid was also pinned wrong at the Primary O2 sensor...hoping my ecu isn't fried because of it.
 
I have the same problem going on right now with my kpro although I don't have any codes. it will read 10.7:1 till the wideband sensor I assume gets warm enough then shoots up to 28:1 30:1 I add fuel to the map and none of the changes take effect.
ive replaced everything that could contribute to a lean condition. bought a brand new oxygen sensor(denso) aswell same shit.:coleman:
last thing I can assume to be bad is kpro and that's what path im headed into now.:fuuu:
I am having this exact issue. anything resolved?
 
I have the same problem going on right now with my kpro although I don't have any codes. it will read 10.7:1 till the wideband sensor I assume gets warm enough then shoots up to 28:1 30:1 I add fuel to the map and none of the changes take effect.

ive replaced everything that could contribute to a lean condition. bought a brand new oxygen sensor(denso) aswell same shit.:coleman:

last thing I can assume to be bad is kpro and that's what path im headed into now.:fuuu:


I'm not sure the exact circumstances with your issue, but my car is running crazy rich due to bad map readings. So rich the plugs fowl. When I did get it to start, the o2 was reading 10.7 then jumped to 29-30. Running very rough. No sensor codes though.
I must get the map setting corrected first.
However, I am wondering, if I my plugs fowl out and the fuel and the air is not burning, this unburnt oxygen could be picked up by the o2 causing it to read very high even though it is very rich. Does this make sense? Sound logical?
Anyone else have this experience?
 
OK guys, I see alot of questions and problems with Primary O2 wiring.
This thread will show you the correct info to check your conversion harness if you are having problems. This should help out several members. This little pic is the wire side of the primary O2 sensor plug. Clip is above the 1 & 2 positions. Pins & plug facing away. Wires coming out towards you.

Image


1 2

3 4

The 4 wires on the Primary O2 need to go to:

1 - Primary O2 Signal (+) (white / red on my harness)
Continuity to C101 pin 19, from there the wire goes back over to ecu A6 where it delivers signal info to the ecu.

2 - Primary O2 Ground (-) (green / blue on my harness)
Continuity to C101 pin 13, from there the wire goes over to ecu A16 which is a sensor ground.

3 - Primary O2 Heater Signal (+) (yellow / black on my harness)
Continuity to C101 pin 15 (from there the wire goes over to ecu A22)
*NOTE: This wire is also divided and is tied into a relay. I will add the relay information a little later.

4 - Primary O2 Heater Ground (-) (orange / blue on my harness)
Continuity to C101 pin 10 (from there the wire goes over to ecu pin A1)
However In some swap harnesses I have seen this wire pinned directly to K-series ecu pin E4. That also works as an appropriate heater ground.

*NOTE: 1 & 2 MUST be wired to the above correct locations for KPro to properly read and display the A/F readings.
*NOTE: 3 & 4 Can be reversed. The heater will still operate without any problem.
Just to confirm. This photo is the plug with the female pins (plug on swap harness)?
 
I'm not sure the exact circumstances with your issue, but my car is running crazy rich due to bad map readings. So rich the plugs fowl. When I did get it to start, the o2 was reading 10.7 then jumped to 29-30. Running very rough. No sensor codes though.
I must get the map setting corrected first.
However, I am wondering, if I my plugs fowl out and the fuel and the air is not burning, this unburnt oxygen could be picked up by the o2 causing it to read very high even though it is very rich. Does this make sense? Sound logical?
Anyone else have this experience?
whats your engine setup? curious about something...
 
K24a dc 3.2 cams, rbc, type s throttle body. Vtc pinned at 40 max

Also. Getting p0341 although I am very confident in my cam timing
ok was curious if you were using a Base RSX tb....those TB's are unique to the base rsx plastic intake manifold, mainly at the MAP sensor channeling on the backside of the TB (doesn't have the same vacuum channel as a Type-S/R, or EP3 throttlebody). I found this out first hand with a base RSX I'm borrowing.

Did you possibly mix up your TPS and MAP sensor wire harness plugs? if so, there's a good chance you blew out your MAP sensor (this is a common issue when accidentally cross plugging these 2 sensors). No DTC's will be thrown either if you do this mix up. The symptom is the engine will run like garbage or wont idle and rev up properly, or just have a hard time starting up (may not start up at all, will only hiccup like it wants to start). Its definitely an annoying issue if you've never experienced it before.

How does your car run? idle? rev up? and with respond with load (say on a drive) ?
 
ok was curious if you were using a Base RSX tb....those TB's are unique to the base rsx plastic intake manifold, mainly at the MAP sensor channeling on the backside of the TB (doesn't have the same vacuum channel as a Type-S/R, or EP3 throttlebody). I found this out first hand with a base RSX I'm borrowing.

Did you possibly mix up your TPS and MAP sensor wire harness plugs? if so, there's a good chance you blew out your MAP sensor (this is a common issue when accidentally cross plugging these 2 sensors). No DTC's will be thrown either if you do this mix up. The symptom is the engine will run like garbage or wont idle and rev up properly, or just have a hard time starting up (may not start up at all, will only hiccup like it wants to start). Its definitely an annoying issue if you've never experienced it before.

How does your car run? idle? rev up? and with respond with load (say on a drive) ?
TPS is new and calibrated.
MAP is new and tested in known working vehicle

Starts up perfect. idle at 2000. need to check TB is see if it is cracked open or if IAC is causing high idle.

Originally the o2 signal wires were wired backward and I got a code. Fixed that and code went away but now is really high afr.

I am going to try and put a wideband in the muffler to see if it gets the same readings.

Edit:
Tried external wideband and idle was at 13.2 where stock was reading 28-32

If I blip the throttle it drops a bit, but nowhere close to what external is getting
 
ah well that sucks.

I wonder if the 02 gets damaged with the backward wires. You try a different 02?

Are you running any kind of thermal gasket either at the manifold or on the tb? if you're running on on the TB, try going back to a stock gasket and seeing if the idle fixes itself.

On a side note, I've been running a Rywire K-swap engine + adapter harness for the last several years and the wideband has never fkng worked. I even went to visit Ryan to have him check out why its not working (probed it) but says its all correct. He may have built my harness (and maybe others) based off the incorrect Helms wideband schematic mentioned in this thread. I also tried some known working used wideband's and I get 'no activity' DTC after driving for a bit no matter what. After reading up on this thread I was worried my Kpro's wideband got possibly damaged from the possible wrong wiring my harness may have, but I confirmed it is not damaged by plugging the kpro (v4) into a coworker's bone stock 04' RSX-S. In live mode it thankfully gets AFR readings once the car is warmed up as does the primary 02 shows fluctuating voltage readings based on throttle response. I should toss these 'known working' 02's on my coworkers car next and see if they're broken or try his 02 in my car.
 
ah well that sucks.
I wonder if the 02 gets damaged with the backwards wires. You try a different 02?

Are you running any kind of thermal gasket either at the manifold or on the tb? if you're running on on the TB, try going back to a stock gasket and seeing if the idle fixes itself.


I got it fixed. Wires were swapped. Long story but after being told the wiring was correct I hesitantly switched them to the way that is outlined in this thread and it worked.
 
Thanks for reply, after some googling I have found this drawing - how to wire o2 narrowband (K20a2) sensor to PRA ecu. Maybe some euro guys i will find this usefull.
Image
So was it a success wiring up the narrow band? What engine harness you used and swap harness?

I am doing an k20a2 of an EDM ep3 2004, and the harness with a ktuned ek kswap harness. I want to run a wideband o2 of an rsx-s. What issues will i run in to?

thanks
 
For those who keep asking about the orientation of the plug in the initial picture that was posted by mike. That is not the plug on the o2 sensor. That is the plug on the opposing side, meaning, the wires from this plug will run into the cabin and to the ecu/e101 connector.

I had to figure this out yesterday as I had the same p1166. I replaced my sensor thinking it was bad. the new a/f sensor was reading from high 25-32 all the time which was weird. I took it for a little drive and got the p1166 code again.

I got that code because I followed xproductionz wiring guide of the o2 which was incorrect as it did not specifically state which direction you should be looking at the plug from. So I had to depin the harness and swap 1-->2 and 3-->4.

Also the service manual has photos that lets you know that you should watch the Plug in which the o2 sensor is attached to from infront where the pins are and not behind where the wires are. If you do this it will line up as mike stated in the intial post
1-2
3-4

Luckily when I swapped the wires my cel disappeared and the o2 functioned as intended. I had already did continuity testing on all the sensor wires as I didn't want to wire it incorrectly so swapping the wires to their correct location was an easy fix. Big thanks to mike.
 
OK guys, I see alot of questions and problems with Primary O2 wiring.
This thread will show you the correct info to check your conversion harness if you are having problems. This should help out several members. This little pic is the wire side of the primary O2 sensor plug. Clip is above the 1 & 2 positions. Pins & plug facing away. Wires coming out towards you.

Image


1 2

3 4

The 4 wires on the Primary O2 need to go to:

1 - Primary O2 Signal (+) (white / red on my harness)
Continuity to C101 pin 19, from there the wire goes back over to ecu A6 where it delivers signal info to the ecu.

2 - Primary O2 Ground (-) (green / blue on my harness)
Continuity to C101 pin 13, from there the wire goes over to ecu A16 which is a sensor ground.

3 - Primary O2 Heater Signal (+) (yellow / black on my harness)
Continuity to C101 pin 15 (from there the wire goes over to ecu A22)
*NOTE: This wire is also divided and is tied into a relay. I will add the relay information a little later.

4 - Primary O2 Heater Ground (-) (orange / blue on my harness)
Continuity to C101 pin 10 (from there the Advantages of Modular goes over to ecu pin A1) However In some swap harnesses I have seen this wire pinned directly to K-series ecu pin E4. That also works as an appropriate heater ground.

*NOTE: 1 & 2 MUST be wired to the above correct locations for KPro to properly read and display the A/F readings.
*NOTE: 3 & 4 Can be reversed. The heater will still operate without any problem.
Hello
Thank for the information , it will help me .
 
i've got this issue right now and i'm in the process of trying to fix it. i checked continuity and the #1 wire is going to pin 18 on the c101 connector, and wire #2 is going to pin 12. so basically they're one pin over from being in the correct spot. problem is there's already wires connected to both pin 13 and 19. do i just switch pins 12 with 13 and 18 with 20? i'd greatly appreciate any help i could get. thanks
 
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