You will need one of the ECUs that Hondata states is K-pro compatible on their website.

No telling what they were doing with the PLM ecu, but it isn't the one you want.

You will also want to verify the wiring of the engine harness. If they got the motor to turn over with that ecu, they may have rewired some stuff to make it happen.

Welcome to the site

 

Actually, I just opened the ECU up and found (37820-PRC-023) on the white terminal housing, so my guess is that the installer used the PLM housing and put the PRC ecu inside it so he could mount the ECU in the factory EM2 location. Can anyone second this possibility?

 

Exactly what I was thinkin. The EM2/ES1 ECU cases are unique to how they mount IN the dashboard. So I guess he just put the PRC board in the case to maintain factory mounting location

 

here is what I found, no hondata though

 

Just the JDM ecu. It will run the engine, but it isn't the best option, as you can tell by reading your plugs. It is K-pro compatible, but the JDM ecus will not allow you to utilize the nitrous switches that the USDM ecus will.

 

But this should get me up and running while I save up for a k-pro and PRB ECU (02-04) correct? Also, when I took this swap out of the car, I noticed that one of the wires was jumped off one of the engine harness to the body harness. One of the thicker black wires on the ECU plug was jumped over to a green/yellow stripe wire on the EM2 body harness. What is this for?

 

More than likely for the fuel pump.

You can run it, but check your plugs, and put the highest octane you can get into it.

 

Well, currently my car has a JDM B18C, and its RHD 99 GSR Sedan. I just picked up a new Walbro pump for my car. I am slowly gathering all the swap parts. I plan on eventually doing a k24 bottom, but really, if I can squeeze a decent number out of the K20, I might just leave it alone. Lol, but knowing me, I couldn't leave it alone. LOL

 

The only recommended use of the PRC ecu is if the motor is left completely stock.

If you go with the K24, you will certainly need K-pro. If you plan on modding the K20 you will need K-pro as well.

 

As signal was saying, it will run the engine for you but more than likely at a less than optimal level due to the differences in fuel from Japan and the US.

Even with boltons and a tune, I'm sure you will find the torque of the k24 hard to resist and much better for DD duties. Best of luck to you on the swap, and getting everything in order.

 

Thanks everyone for the info, much appreciated. As I said, I am a newbie to these K-Series engines. I know a lot about B & D Series, but for me its frustrating to not know anything about these K's (just because its in my personality to know things, lol). I'm sure I will be learning a lot as I progress with my swap. And I don understand that there is some good information out there on the internet and that not everything you read is true.

 

No worries, this is a place to learn and share information.

See the link in my signature, there is a lot of great information compiled there from the members of this site. :up: