[Newt Gomez]

I tried doing something similar with my original pan and it wasn't successful in relation to the Unit2 pan solution. I don't know if I did it incorrectly, but putting a plate there didn't solve my issues.

 

[tunermt]

RTV I mean like Honda bond, can you recommend some glue?

I would personally NOT recommend gluing anything in place inside the pan/front cover or valve cover. Eventually the glue/adhesive will fail from oil/vibrations and then you'll have a loose baffle and small pieces of adhesive contaminating the oil. bolt in or weld (cast aluminum pans can of course be welded BUT the welded areas will fatigue over time, much better than glue but still not ideal).

I've had to circuit race a lot of K series engines over the years from DC5, FN2, FD2 and old civic swaps. This include British touring cars from Neil Brown as well as Japanese touring cars like Mugen FD2. Assuming NO dry sump oiling options are allowed for the race series ALL of them would have:

• baffles (as described above BUT please figure out a way to bolt them in or weld them in.)
• higher capacity (MORE oil, can be done with an extra 500-900ml on stock pans or better yet increase the pan size to hold 1-2L more oil).
• accusump (ecu controlled oil accumulator, 1-2 liters)
• mods to promote oil draining back to the pan. (the K oil pumps works so well that when the engine lives at 6k+ rpm during a circuit race it moves so much oil so quickly the pan starts to get low before the oil can drain back down. (this is why you increase capacity BUT also want to promote drain back to the pan.)

 

[Gossciu]

I would personally NOT recommend gluing anything in place inside the pan/front cover or valve cover. Eventually the glue/adhesive will fail from oil/vibrations and then you'll have a loose baffle and small pieces of adhesive contaminating the oil. bolt in or weld (cast aluminum pans can of course be welded BUT the welded areas will fatigue over time, much better than glue but still not ideal).

I've had to circuit race a lot of K series engines over the years from DC5, FN2, FD2 and old civic swaps. This include British touring cars from Neil Brown as well as Japanese touring cars like Mugen FD2. Assuming NO dry sump oiling options are allowed for the race series ALL of them would have:

• baffles (as described above BUT please figure out a way to bolt them in or weld them in.)
• higher capacity (MORE oil, can be done with an extra 500-900ml on stock pans or better yet increase the pan size to hold 1-2L more oil).
• accusump (ecu controlled oil accumulator, 1-2 liters)
• mods to promote oil draining back to the pan. (the K oil pumps works so well that when the engine lives at 6k+ rpm during a circuit race it moves so much oil so quickly the pan starts to get low before the oil can drain back down. (this is why you increase capacity BUT also want to promote drain back to the pan.)

Thanks bro, the glue doesnt sound great for me.

You can tell me, how dangerous in you opinion its drop to 4 bars? (60psi) For 2 seconds

You think i can overfill to 6 liters in stock k20z4? I have to try it on next time attack because i dont have 800 pounds for Fd2 pump kit now

 

[Lotus]

for me with the CPL sump baffle, some 4-5mm above the "full" mark were sufficient to maintain the 5.0 bar hot oil pressure I see on track. Being just on full, the pressure started to fluctuate on long left turns.
Overfilling is the cheapest option
I close my PCV hose to the plenum on track with a manual valve to avoid sucking in a lot of oil mist in the brake zones.
This reduced track oil consumption to near zero. Nothing you can do about evaporation and internal losses besides the oil type.

 

[Gossciu]

for me with the CPL sump baffle, some 4-5mm above the "full" mark were sufficient to maintain the 5.0 bar hot oil pressure I see on track. Being just on full, the pressure started to fluctuate on long left turns.
Overfilling is the cheapest option
I close my PCV hose to the plenum on track with a manual valve to avoid sucking in a lot of oil mist in the brake zones.
This reduced track oil consumption to near zero. Nothing you can do about evaporation and internal losses besides the oil type.

How you closing the PCV? Have you any photo?

 

[Lotus]

a simple plastic manual valve in the line.

 

[Gossciu]

a simple plastic manual valve in the line.

View attachment 123923

Before intake manifold?

 

[Lotus]

In between plenum and PCV valve

 

[mattkosem]

I have the Unit 2 baffled steel pan, and I noticed a couple oil pressure drop outs yesterday at Mid-Ohio around the keyhole (club circuit, with the chicane) toward the end of the day. The first dip immediately below under WOT is coming out of the chicane, but I can see that it dipped in the keyhole as well. I believe this was my second to last lap of my last session of the day. The dipstick read above the top dot when I entered the track, and showed 1/2qt low after this session...which does happen spuriously on track sometimes. 😞 I'm sometimes seeing up to 1.34g with my current tire setup, so this is actually a relatively tame section. I have to assume it's situational.

This graph mostly shows the tail end of pulling into the chicane, through the left-hander into the keyhole, and through the end of the keyhole (it's nice to have a Nexus ECU in this case):

Another lap, same spot, I had about 1bar more:

Inside turn 1 (also a left), no issue at all (6 seconds lifting to let a Miata by to follow it 🤣):

I don't overfill, but it sounds like I should. 3 seconds seems like an eternity to have only 2.5 bars of oil pressure (the figure above is in bar absolute - so 100 is atmospheric) at ~6000rpm.

 

[mrluke]

• mods to promote oil draining back to the pan. (the K oil pumps works so well that when the engine lives at 6k+ rpm during a circuit race it moves so much oil so quickly the pan starts to get low before the oil can drain back down. (this is why you increase capacity BUT also want to promote drain back to the pan.)

Can you share any detail and what was done or commonly done?


In my experience the clockwise baffles haven't been enough to prevent oil starvation. The Mugen sump looks to have solved it but we'll see when I get some better tyres!

The Ariel Atom club seemed to think Mugen would work to around 1.5g on track and more than that was looking at dry sump.

You have to be careful doing the sump mod diy, the tractuff option restricted that area also but appeared to cause failures as it was too restrictive.

 

[tunermt]

Can you share any detail and what was done or commonly done?


In my experience the clockwise baffles haven't been enough to prevent oil starvation. The Mugen sump looks to have solved it but we'll see when I get some better tyres!

The Ariel Atom club seemed to think Mugen would work to around 1.5g on track and more than that was looking at dry sump.

You have to be careful doing the sump mod diy, the tractuff option restricted that area also but appeared to cause failures as it was too restrictive.

yes the mugen baffles are a decent design. Good Baffles, oil draining back to pan, over fill and accusump all working together is pretty trust worthy.