[K20yle]

What email address did you send your email to? I have not seen an email... if you dont mind re-sending it, please send it to duckiller01@gmail.com

Kyle already had a the water pump delete but its not necessary to switch over to an electric pump, you may see additional gains/ bennifits but thats only if you dont mind complicating things or spending a little more.

There is a picture in this album https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.261832067194291.67224.172934779417354&type=1&l=60daacdb7f (10th. one down) that shows how the pump would fit using an OEM water pump housing. The pump in the picture is not the same but it is similar and should give you an idea of how things sit.

Power steering is mounted up top and does not present any problems seeing how its out of the way and driven by a common belt as the water pump.

Thanks for clearing that up. For some reason i thought the pump mounted to the water pumps location but now that i think about it thats not possible cuz the delete plate uses the water pumps location.

 

[Scott@HPT]

9,000 is a high rpm but I'm aiming for 10,000. Definetly not with a stock k20a3 but the plan is to get a built engine once the oil system, methanol system, and all the other peripheral systems are working corectly.

Sounds like you're putting the cart in front of the horse a bit, but to each his own I guess. Looks cool and would be a good coversational piece when you pop the hood though. Good luck with your build. :up:

 

[K20yle]

Sounds like you're putting the cart in front of the horse a bit, but to each his own I guess. Looks cool and would be a good coversational piece when you pop the hood though. Good luck with your build. :up:

Haha yea, you could say that. But it seems to make more sense to do it this way. Everything im doing will bolt up to a built engine. Plus if i screw something up and seize or blow the engine, i would much rather do that to a $1000 stock engine than a $4000 built engine.

 

[HotelCalifornia]

That's how I am too. I prefer to get all the little knick knacks working before going all out. It makes trouble shooting a lot easier. You have everything working now, make one change at a time rather than 10 new changes.

Looking great so far.

 

[K20yle]

So i test fit the pump again, this time out of the car. Heres what i found.

With the ati damper installed the belt is too long to be tightened due to the damper's diameter being smaller than the stock k20a3.

the alternator runs out of space between its bottom and the top of the pump very easily while being adjusted.

the old spacers i made to get that belt to fit.

used some washers and nuts to figure out what size i needed the new spacers to be.

This is the amount of space between the alternator and pump with the belt tight with the new spacers.

 

[SovXietday]

Why are you worried about having the belt tight when it looks like you'll need to run an entirely new belt to compensate for the external oil pump pulley anyway? Or did I miss something?

This is a really cool install, interested to see more.

 

[Jojo_2.4]

So sick. Cant wait to see more.

 

[playasyougo]

Why are you worried about having the belt tight when it looks like you'll need to run an entirely new belt to compensate for the external oil pump pulley anyway? Or did I miss something?

This is a really cool install, interested to see more.

The oil pump pulley will run off another belt. This is driven from another pulley
that bolts to the ATI unit.

K20yle: Thanks for putting these pictures up. Interesting thread.

 

[RML-2.0]

this is sick. :up:

 

[K20yle]

Why are you worried about having the belt tight when it looks like you'll need to run an entirely new belt to compensate for the external oil pump pulley anyway? Or did I miss something?

This is a really cool install, interested to see more.

Play as you go is correct. The oil pump will be run by a cog/timeing belt style system which eliminates any chances of slipping. I havent posted pics yet of this pulley because i had some issues with the ati damper not haveing the correct mounting screws. I sent the damper, mandrel, and crank pulley bolt back to Robert so he can see the problem first hand. He already had solutions worked out but I offered to send the stuff so that he can be sure that future kits wont have the same problems.

 

[SovXietday]

Sweet, and that also answered my other lingering question regarding ensuring a belt that would have been looped like that was tight enough to not slip. Cool, interested to see more for sure.

 

[Ryan.J&DFabtech]

seems like a ton of work to me with No real world gains at all and alot more potential problems. But thats just my opinion. Ive never seen this done Im still wondering what the benefits are from this? please enlighten me

 

[eK24monster]

No real world gains? I think its best that you google the topic as the explanation is lengthy and will surely bring rise to a host of additional questions that will end up needing to be answered.

As for the questions surrounding the belt and how its driven... here is a picture of how it all looks installed. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...fbid=268558426521655&set=a.261832067194291.67224.172934779417354&type=3&theater

 

[K20yle]

seems like a ton of work to me with No real world gains at all and alot more potential problems. But thats just my opinion. Ive never seen this done Im still wondering what the benefits are from this? please enlighten me

Yea it is a ton of work, you are correct about that. But as far as there being no gains you are wrong. First off creating vacuum in the crankcase will seal the rings better to the pistons. This will have multiple benefits leading to higher hp. Secondly the dry sump oil pump will not cavitate untill +5000rpm. With a 2:1 ratio on the pulley this will give you a maximum rpm of 10,000rpm. Which can easily be raised simply by changeing the belt size and pulley (not that an engine can be built as easily but at least you wont have to worry about the oil pump). Theres a whole list of other reason why dry sumps are superior and i have done literally months of research to be sure that it wont be wasted time, effort, or money. The thing to realize is that not every single upgrade you do is going to make huge h.p. Gains (i am expecting to see a 20hp gain from this) but at the end of all this i will have a safer, stronger engine which is built to withstand more of a beating than i will be giveing it. And besides i enjoy doing the work.

 

[K20yle]

Todays project was to drill out and tap the hole the was used to bring oil from the stock oil pump to the various parts of the engine. It needs to be blocked off so that oil will not come pouring out now that its being fed from somewere else.

here you can see the hole that needs to be blocked off ( just left of the nearest crank bearing stud)

by sprayin wd40 into this hole after drilling and taping you will clean out any residual chips. I drilled and taped with the engine rite side up so chips would fall out of the hole rather than falling deeper in if i had rotated it 180 degrees on the engine stand.

this is a pic of how many chips the wd40 flushed out. Just shows how important it is to do.

heres the hole blocked off. It was drilled with a letter "g" drill and tapped M8x1.25 aproximately 1.375" deep.

this is were i stole that bolt from. It was from the bottom of the intake manifold support brace. I have a new one on order from honda to replace it.

More good stuff.

 

[nigel b]

Looking good
Do you have to alter the belt tension by using shims behind the pump
Dry sumps are great bits of kit but expensive to install and a pain to properly change oil,on my other engine everything was a custom install and works flawlessly

 

[K20yle]

Looking good
Do you have to alter the belt tension by using shims behind the pump
Dry sumps are great bits of kit but expensive to install and a pain to properly change oil,on my other engine everything was a custom install and works flawlessly

Yea. The pump uses shims to adjust the tension of the belt. Its not my favorite but it pretty much the standard for dry sumps with the exception of a few companies.

 

[K20yle]

New alternator spacers .825 diamter 1.15 long M11 hole thru

new spacers installed

new screws picked out for the oil pan.

new oil pan screws come from here. Ordered 16 from honda yesterday.

 

[rokwilder1]

Never actually seen this done by an individual, nice work man. Reliability and longevity are something always overlooked, this is an investment for the long haul not to mention the additional clearance factor which prob is not an issue for you being an em2.

On another note, i seem to remember a couple of k20 swapped em2's with ep3 electric power steering racks, white ones, one of which was for sale recently and a mag feature. I could be wrong but it you ever wanted that luxury in might be something to explore.

 

[K20yle]

Never actually seen this done by an individual, nice work man. Reliability and longevity are something always overlooked, this is an investment for the long haul not to mention the additional clearance factor which prob is not an issue for you being an em2.

On another note, i seem to remember a couple of k20 swapped em2's with ep3 electric power steering racks, white ones, one of which was for sale recently and a mag feature. I could be wrong but it you ever wanted that luxury in might be something to explore.

Na, my car has not been featured in any mags. Recently or ever. and if ur asking if the cars for sale, no it isnt but if you show up at my house with a 2012 lambo or farrari i might consider doing an even trade. Lol