Awesome!!! I did this on a B I built back in the day, and I intend on doing it to my K as well. I will be running an oil cooler though, is the only difference. Keep the thread updated to the end, I'd like to see the finished product.

 

Wouldnt have been that much harder to figured in for the oil cooler line but for drag racing I really dont need it. There is a guy that I talked to that auto crosses and removed his oil cooler.

 

why would you wan't to take out the stock water pump? is it not effiecient enough?

 

why would you wan't to take out the stock water pump? is it not effiecient enough?

Well the more accesories the motor is turning the more horsepower your losing. So, since its a drag car, I removed the a/c, p/s, water pump, alt, belt tensioner, of course the belt and the crank pulley. Now the motor will be putting out as much HP to the wheels as possible without losing some HP to run accesories. Add in an electric water pump to circulate the water without the loss of HP.

 

Not to mention the bit of weight saved as well by removing all the accessories.

 

very good idea, would like to see a dyno of a k20 swapped car with the general setup, water pump, alt belt and the ep3 idler pulley and then all that removed to see what kind of gain can be reached.

 

very good idea, would like to see a dyno of a k20 swapped car with the general setup, water pump, alt belt and the ep3 idler pulley and then all that removed to see what kind of gain can be reached.

It is a good idea, I was looking into it and found out that Norris had beat me to it. I heard that you gain around 5-7HP for every accessory removed, dont know how true the numbers are but it is a fact you gain HP.

 

A lot of people beat Norris to it to... lol. This has been something that is done for a long time now. Especially on an A/M car, the more power you can free up, the better. If you are running a battery, and it only has to last with juice for -maybe-1 minute worth of running, then you can drive a lot of things with an electric motor, and pay no penalty, other than the weight of the motor and battery... that, and needing to charge it up between rounds and stuff... hehe.

I'm doing a plate fairly similar to this as well. It definitely is a smart thing to do.

 

A lot of people beat Norris to it to... lol. This has been something that is done for a long time now. Especially on an A/M car, the more power you can free up, the better. If you are running a battery, and it only has to last with juice for -maybe-1 minute worth of running, then you can drive a lot of things with an electric motor, and pay no penalty, other than the weight of the motor and battery... that, and needing to charge it up between rounds and stuff... hehe.

I'm doing a plate fairly similar to this as well. It definitely is a smart thing to do.

You are right, people have been doing this for a long time on other motors but when I was first thinking about this Norris was the only person that I had heard of doing this with a K motor other than Skunk2.

 

Wouldnt have been that much harder to figured in for the oil cooler line but for drag racing I really dont need it. There is a guy that I talked to that auto crosses and removed his oil cooler.

Well, it is certainly not necessary, but to be honest the more you can reduce as well as stabilize oil temperatures, the less viscosity you can run in order to properly lubricate the motor (as well as passively cool the motor). Running the thinnest viscosity possible is increased power within itself.

Not necessarily required for drag, but for road racing I wouldn't run without it.

Now that you freed up all that parasitic loss you should work to create some crankcase vacuum and reduce those pumping losses within the block.

 

Well the more accesories the motor is turning the more horsepower your losing. So, since its a drag car, I removed the a/c, p/s, water pump, alt, belt tensioner, of course the belt and the crank pulley. Now the motor will be putting out as much HP to the wheels as possible without losing some HP to run accesories. Add in an electric water pump to circulate the water without the loss of HP.

Do you think you will have a good seal right there where the new block off plate is and you mentioned removing crank pulley, wouldn't that throw off the balance of the bottom end slightly?

 

Do you think you will have a good seal right there where the new block off plate is and you mentioned removing crank pulley, wouldn't that throw off the balance of the bottom end slightly?

There is a groove machined on the back of the plate for a rubber O-ring like on the original piece. Then all you have to do is use some sealant to seal the rest just like from the factory. I was thinking about that, but the K motor is internally balanced such as the crank, pistons, and rods. So unless someone has facts that running without the crank pulley would hurt the motor I still plan on it.

 

What water pump are you going to use?

Steve

 

There is a groove machined on the back of the plate for a rubber O-ring like on the original piece. Then all you have to do is use some sealant to seal the rest just like from the factory. I was thinking about that, but the K motor is internally balanced such as the crank, pistons, and rods. So unless someone has facts that running without the crank pulley would hurt the motor I still plan on it.

Nice! Did you make the plate and if so are they being made for others (to buy)?

 

Not sure about what water pump I'll be using. Looking into it now.

 

Yes, the plate was made at our shop. I posted on crsx that I would sell them for $110 shipped in the US. I still need to weld on a AN fitting for the water pump. The plate is still under construction. I threw a price out there to test the waters but once the prototype is completely done I will post pics and then sell if anyone is interested. More less just looking for opinions and ideas out there.

 

Yes, the plate was made at our shop. I posted on crsx that I would sell them for $110 shipped in the US. I still need to weld on a AN fitting for the water pump. The plate is still under construction. I threw a price out there to test the waters but once the prototype is completely done I will post pics and then sell if anyone is interested. More less just looking for opinions and ideas out there.

Overall the design looks great, The AN fitting what size? #8 I'm assuming or maybe that is too small. I am interested in one of the plates when done.

I think it will do great as long as the seals are good. You will have to come up with your own torque specs as well I assume or you'll probably leave it too stock torque specs which ever I would like to know.

Steve

 

The hole in the plate is 1 1/2 in. I'm not sure of the sizes of the water pumps. May have to make an adapter for the AN fitting. I havent taken a look at any water pumps. I made the hole that size because thats the size of the hole in the block and on the original piece. #8 how big is that?

 

The hole in the plate is 1 1/2 in. I'm not sure of the sizes of the water pumps. May have to make an adapter for the AN fitting. I havent taken a look at any water pumps. I made the hole that size because thats the size of the hole in the block and on the original piece. #8 how big is that?

#8 AN fitting.

 

#8 AN fitting.

Your saying a #8 AN fitting but what diameter is that. What diameters will water pumps fit?

 

-8 fitting is waaaaaaaaaaaaay too small to block that hole. you'll need at least -12 if not a touch bigger like -16.

[edit] a -8 AN fitting is a 3/8" tube diameter roughly.

 

As a matter of fact, i decided to look it up.... to have a 1.5" hole in the center of an AN fitting, it'll require a -24 AN fitting.

a -16 is a nice balance, and should more thna work. Thats what i welded onto a customers car for his water fittings in his race car..

 

Nice, I'll look into this. I just looked at Jegs and they got a Meziere pump for Honda/Acura and it comes with some fittings. They look like good size but they did say how big. Was thinking I might weld their fitting to the plate and then of course add the pump.

 

I don't think i'd go about doing it like that.... that will be waaaay too much weight hanging on the fitting. It'd be much safer to remote mount the pump on a frame member, and then run lines to and from it. You CAN weld a -16 fitting to their supplied fittings, and then run a hose that way.

The pump i have is a Meziere as well, just with a slightly different pump housing shape... same motor as that though. They are nice units (buy the universal pump though... that 'kit' they have at Jegs includes a B-series block-off plate... no sense in paying for something that you'll never need)

 

Do you have a part number for the Meziere pump that you have. Or a page that I could see a pic of.