The wiring for the fan and fuel pump switch were already done previously with the Easy-Run test stand, so I just wired the power and ground to the pump and fan. Would this cause problems with the ECU for the fuel pump? I figured since it was an OUT plug, that the ECU didn't need to detect if the pump was running or not, just if there's pressure at the rail.

 

No, but the ECU controls the fuel pump relay. It primes the pump for 3 seconds or when the engine is running . E1 is an out pin to control the fuel pump relay. Same for fan. You could run switch and ECU in parallel, if you want. Switch needs to ground the control line. Or be open

 

I received the drive by cable throttle body, hooked up the TPS and the MAP, received an IAT and hooked that up too and still the engine will not start. Is there something wrong with my wiring? Are the injectors on a K24A wired differently than on the K20? Please advise!

For what it’s worth, when I press the start button the crank the engine, the Kmanager software displays the Ignition as OFF, but when I release the crank button, ignition is ON again.

 

I think I need to wire E7 to a 1k ohm resistor to 12V based on page 4 of the kswap guide using no main relay. I will try that next, unless someone has another idea.

 

The starter needs several amps of current. Are you sure your 12V supply is sufficient to drive the starter switch? Could be your "switched power" voltage drops so much while cranking that the ECU switches off. Normally this current is delivered though a dedicated starter relay with direct battery feed.
The ECU has no knowledge of the starter doing anything except of detecting the engine spins. There is no other connection that the supply voltage.

A resistor from switched 12V to E7 would simulate a main relay being present. It also provides power in the ECU for the memory storing the DTC codes.
Could be it is needed, but it would then not show "on" in the KManager.

 

I wired the starter button directly to the 12V post of the battery and to the C103 terminal. Even with this, the ignition still displays OFF when cranking. I've noticed though, that when I turn the Fan relay switch or the fuel pump relay switch on, the ignition will also display as OFF.

I played around with the CKP sensor wiring to ensure that I didn't have it wrong when matching the K24 vs K20 wiring. Ignition will be OFF if any of the wiring of the CKP is incorrect, so that was somewhat reassuring.

Do I need more power to the C101 - 9, 14, and 20 wires that I have connected to a shared fused power distribution rail (this rail also shares the fan and FP relay power)? Will the ignition still be displayed as OFF with no fuel to the injectors? I also obtained the Hybrid-Racing Universal Harness Adapter, and tried wiring a bit, but couldn't even get the ignition to say ON, so I went back to my setup. I believe I have everything I need to get this engine running, I just can't figure out the electrical. I was considering just putting the three power wires directly to 12V, but I didn't want to blow anything up.

 

12V on C101 9,14,20 are needed for operation. Fuel in the injectors only matters to fire it up. ECU status won't change. If you push the start or fan button, the 12V at ignition E9, and 9,14,20 on C101 shall not drop below 10V.

 

I wanted to check when cranking with the fuel pump deactivated there would be enough power to keep the Ignition ON. But it still displays as OFF with or without the fuel pump running.

 

do you lose connection to the ECU? Can you data log while cranking? Does show rpm?
I have done 3 swap harnesses for two car types and they all fired up first time.

 

It's very odd, when I try to click the datalogging it gives me an error (something about calibration, forgot at this moment, will capture and get back) then the timer will start. When I press the starter button to crank, the timer turns off and I get a snapshot I believe of the engine pictured here: Hondata 4.4.7. I just go to file > new > [RSX (type-S) - PRB) > TSX-04-05 stock.kal. Am I missing any steps?

 

did you put a K24 map on the ECU? AFAIR it needs a map on ECU and PC to log. The values in the picture show mostly odd values. Bat 0V?
did you connect the loom's ground strap to the valve cover?

 

I opened the TSX stock kal. Do I further need to upload this to the ECU somehow? I do have the ground strap connected, will take pic and show in a bit.

 

yes, you need to upload it to the ECU.
No map on ECU = no start.

KPro Help

"Uploading a calibration to the ECU will transfer the calibration from the laptop to the ECU. The vehicle ignition must be switched on while uploading. To upload a calibration use Online->Upload or Ctrl+U.
The first time a calibration is uploaded to the ECU it will take approximately 1 minute. Subsequent uploads are performed differentially and take from 3 seconds - 15 seconds to upload."

 

So the ECU was already mapped with the stock K20A2 calibration. The Online -> Upload feature for me is grayed out and I cannot select it. Instead, I went to the Calibration Storage, deleted it, then stored the stock TSX calibration to it. This occurred nearly instantaneously. Is there a reason why I can't use the Upload feature?

I have also attached pictures of the wiring. It just occurred to me that the wire I'm using for the main power may not be a large enough gauge to power everything. I also have the negative lead of the battery to the frame. Is there a problem using the charge harness the way I have it wired?

 

The calib folder on your PC is just a HHD folder. No connection to ECU map.

ign 12V needs to be on and ECU connected to PC through USB cable. It should show status connected.

 

I did this all when I was connected to the ECU. Unfortunately, I do not have internet at the location where the engine is, so I have to run back and forth with my laptop. On the bottom of the program when I connect it, it says status online and ignition ON.

 

No internet required. To check, you can download the map

 

There is a ground strap coming out of the injector loom, part of the engine loom, right in the middle where the injectors sit. This needs to connect to the valve cover.

 

There is no ground connector on my budget tucked ver 2 Rywire harness for the injectors. The only grounds are the one I pictured next to the ignitions coils and from engine to frame. Perhaps that's what you meant?

I have also upgraded to a thicker power wire with no avail... I also tried combining C101- 9,14,20 together on the same fuse and nothing. This is with the starter button on a dedicated 12V.

 

 

But that ground strap should be part of the OE engine loom . You got a KPro ECU?

 

The more you deviate from the OE schematic, the more knowledge you need and the less we can help you. I’d stick to the known schematics and OE looms that have worked in likely thousands of installations.

 

Should I just skip using the charge harness and wire directly? Perhaps my ground on the charge harness is preventing the proper power to get through.

 

You only Interface with the engine loom incl. alternator/starter loom that is plugged into the engine loom anyhow.

 

Ok, so I decided to start a bit more from scratch, but still using the relays in parallel. I am also using the Universal Chassis harness adapter from Hybrid Racing. Here's what I have attached, but it's not reading ignition with the ECU connected to the laptop. The ECU reads online, but again, ignition says OFF even with the power switch and ignition switches on. Weird thing is that I have wired each of these plugs separately on their own to the power fuse strip and switch (C101 -9,14,20, E9) and I was able to have the ignition read ON before. I wired the blue fuel pump relay wire on the universal harness because I thought it would help give power to where it needs.

I am also using an 04 TSX charge harness. The black and white fuse box cables are not connected to anything, so I grounded the black one and I have the white one disconnected (I will try and loop this back to the positive battery terminal) and the alternator is NOT plugged in due to the incompatibility with the Rywire harness. Does this need to be plugged in for the engine to start? Any thoughts?