Re: Post only K24a2's Stock BLock, pushed to its Limit...

Rcrew only makes one stage of cams..... and they say its like a STAGE 2 cam.

 

Re: Post only K24a2's Stock BLock, pushed to its Limit...

^ thanks i didn't know that.

 

Re: Post only K24a2's Stock BLock, pushed to its Limit...

^ good come back

Yosolo you got any more dyno's ?

 

Re: Post only K24a2's Stock BLock, pushed to its Limit...

i'm Glad too see my thread doing good!!:up:

 

off my TSX

 

how advance are u guys going with the kme on stock tsx block?

 

Stock k24a2 block with k20 head n skunk 2 stage 3 cams
http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58003

 

jeff16 any reason why you chose the k20A2 head over the k24a2 head this is assuming you had a complete k24a2 to begin with.

 

Good lord i wish I had 200WTQ
what is your VTEC set at?

 

bump this up incase anyone has done any more tinkering.

 

stock k24a2 on $300 cams LOL

http://tunerzine.com/view_article/car_feature/stage-6-all-motor-car

 

I posetd a dyno here somewhere, but I made 240whp and 193wtq with a stock K24a2 bottom and K20a2 head with skunk2 stage 2 cams. This was with a BCRH and a restrictive exhaust.

 

You guys are worrying too much. I have been running Kon's old K24 block, below, in my supercharged RSX for the last year and it makes a conservative 330hp/240tq. Just keep the rev's below 8,000, use a Type-S oil pump, and you will be fine.

 

My TSX has a K24A2.. Bump..

 

So what kind of engine life are you guys getting with the stock k24a2 bottom end spinning to 8000? I am building mine to road race and I'm considering going with forged internals, but not sure yet, might keep the bottom end stock for now.

Has anyone been running a full k24a2 long block with cams, springs, retainers etc. at 8000 rpm (type s pump) at the track long term? engine longevity is key for me. thanks

-David

 

The K24a2 bottom end is very strong. Revving it to 8k all day is no problem. The rods are "forged" (from the factory) and the crank has 8 counter weights (Same as the 06+ Civic Si). So 8k is no problem all motor.
I also have a TSX and I beat on it every weekend, and it only revs to 7600rpm.
Check out TSXclub, there are a couple boosted TSX's with stock motors.

The Best thing you can do to the stock bottom end is put in B16 crank bearings if you plan to rev higher than 8.5k. The B16 bearings are .9xx and the K24a's are .7xx wide

 

the rods are forged and have counterweights??? hmmmmm

 

The crankshaft has 8 counterweights, instead of 4.

DC2 Integra Type R crank

Acura TSX

Base model Civic 06+

Thus allowing higher revving with less vibration.

 

Thanks for the edit DaSlowestCL9, not that I am doubting you but I believe its profitable for others to know where information is coming from. Hearsay is the worst kind of knowledge. Id also like to know where you found that the rods are forged from the factory....I will be honest, Im sceptical but am happy to be proven wrong....they do say the "proof is in the pudding". The reason I ask is because I don't want myself or want others to think in their minds that their rods are forged because someone online said so.

 

Magic, I don't think that the rods are forged, they are however quite strong. The 09 crank is forged but I am not sure about earlier models. Keep this in mind....someone that "beats" on their car every weekend is not road racing.....they will not see the level of abuse a road race car will if said road race car competes often. Even if the person that "beats" on their car drag races it from every single stop light....their car is not seeing side loads or the potential for oil starvation that a road race car may see. (Not trying to offend anyone here, I appologize in advance if I have) Your best bet is to talk to tuning companies with road racing experience such as DFE or Endyne to help you. If you go to the road race/autocross section the guys will tell you every single time that seat time is the most important mod. The oil pump upgrade and baffeled oil pan is a must.....at that point...get some seat time and weigh your options carfully by talking to people with road race experience. As an example...theres a member on here who road races his RSX with the stock motor....206hp to the wheels and he competes with 400+hp vehicles.....granted his car is stripped....but drivers skill is paramount. Good Luck bro.

 

That is true. I run a baffled oil pan.

 

right on, i will be the first to admit that you are better off spending your money getting seat time and professional instruction than on mods. it know it has improved my driving tremendously.

I road raced my car with the b18c type R swap for a couple summers and had zero problems with it. That is what I would like out of the new k24a2 setup. basically a 'weekend warrior' for track events that i can drive on the streets on nice days and not need to worry about blowing up the bottom end.

should be doable on a stock k24a2 bottom end, agreed?

 

Sure.

 

cool, thanks guys

 

Godspeed07, Im not offended if you are referring to me. As for forged rods, I am pretty sure the Acura TSX 2006-2008 rods are forged. Im not sure about the 2004-2005. And Its good to know that the 2009 rods are also forged.
magicDC2, If you plan on doing a K24 swap, I suggest you swap the 06+ TSX motor. If you buy a complete swap, dont bother buying a K20 head unless you bought a 04/05 TSX motor.
As for the abuse on the car, No I dont road race it, but I have already been through one transmission. Its my daily driver and I bought my car brand new so Im not trying to blow my motor as it is the only car I have and I need to running.

 

actually i bought an 06 k24a2, so good to know. mileage is 35K so not too bad, plus it was pulled from a car with an auto trans, so it wasn't over rev'd etc. I knew they made some improvements in '06, but I didn't know the head was better. regardless of the exact specs, sounds like the 06+ engine is s a little stronger w/ a better head. thanks for the info. any other differences i should know about before I start the build?

 

Forged rods won't help if drop a valve or over rev lol..

 

Has anyone on here with a K ever drop a valve or over rev?>

 

it goes KAAAAAAAAABBBBBBBBBBBWWWWWWWWWWWWHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMM:dance:

 

Some of you are discounting that the cams and the intake/exhaust manifolds dictate the redline. Much like the B18A/B, the redline was around the 7,000 RPMs but this was the breathing characteristics that dictated the redline.

Just rev a showroom stock K24A2 past it's redline and see what you get. Isn't that something to think about?

 

I dynoed my TSX, and on the dyno plot, the HP keeps rising. If you add a RBC intake manifold to the head, youll still be making power past 8000RPM. This is all magicDC2 needs, and a 3 inch exhaust and keep the motor stock and it will run strong. On my TSX I have Injen Intake and J's Racing FX 70RR exhaust and I pull on EK hatch with Type R swaps

 

This was my k24a mild built setup red line at 9200
over 100 times drag over 20 times track circuit
Stock type r head
12.5:1 piston 87.5 bore
K1 i Beam rod
ACL bearing
S2S3 cam
RBC port match 70 MM TB
70 MM TB
hondata K-pro tuned on 91 Octane
used for 9 months and about 20k Miles

 

We've logged 30+ race hours on our stock K24A2 just this season. 8200 Redline, and I do drive it quite hard... We have taken it to 8500 for some special occasions even.

The grunt it has over a 1.8/2.0 at corner exit makes a world of difference. Especially if your entering at one of those 'awkward' transitions between 3rd > 4th, 4th > 5th, etc... you can just leave it in the high gear, stay smooth, and put it down.

Oil pump, and an oil cooler would be a good idea if that's what your thinking on.