I'm still confused on the water system front. Conflicting opinions make it hard to work out what way I need to go. One thing is for sure is that I CAN NOT install the plastic honda housing due to space.

 

Cheers Jaydee,

So..... If I make up a fitting that goes into the heater outlet into a -6an or something then tapped a fitting Into the rear of the k-tuned upper housing then all should be good?

 

So I could use a -6an fitting out of the back of the head then plumb it back into the k-tuned top water housing?

Cheers Kirk I'm happy with things in general.

 

The duct work on the hood is fabulous. Id love to see an under hood shot for some more detail.

You definitely shoe horned the swap in there. Every millimeter is purposefully accounted for. Nothing but love and admiration for your work here!

I cant imagine an air bubble staying trapped in high RPM forced coolant. Maybe a steam pocket? Maybe its an issue with the sensors location? Has anyone tried using water wetter (a coolant additive)? There has been debate in the past about the best location for the coolant sensor...

@Dan : You said you couldnt use the stock plastic housing... is the outlet clocked the wrong way? You might can use the outlet from another Honda K series model as some are clocked differently?

 

Cheers for the positive comments.

Yes, if I used the plastic water housing it directs the outlet straight into my charger inlet pipe, I did manage to get the fittings to just clear it but because the -16an hose is so big it just kinks very easily.

 

 

Appreciate the additional pics!

:up:

 

 

Wow! That looks monstrous mate!

Are you going to open up the splitter to gain more airflow through the rad and intercooler?

 

Are you going to open up the airdam to gain more airflow through the rad and intercooler?

Fixed.

 

Lol, thanks!

 

No it's not really necessary to remove any of the air dam, I want to keep it one piece to keep it's efficiency. I'll fit some naca ducts for brake cooling ducts if i HAVE to.. These would be mounts on the air Dam. Still a lot of work to do but I'm on the home straight.

 

I cant wait to see some video of this in action. :up:

 

Got a little more done..

Wrapped my air dam so it looks more in keeping with the car and the wrap should take more abuse from stoned etc




Lexan windows
Still fronts to fit btw

 

Awesome work Dan- I'm in love with your car, honestly!

Perhaps we can get together sometime when we've both got our swaps on the road.

 

Cheers

Yea it would be cool to do that although my car isn't really designed for the road it will still be road legal.

 

I look forward to it.

Do you still see Dan and Mathew Page often? How are those boys keeping?

 

Yea I speak to dan and Matt often. Good lads they are all good as far as I'm aware.

 

Car is looking great mate, i seriously worship it!

Although i'm a Renault addict myself this still ticks my balls!

 

Cheers mate ^^^


One for the rotrex guys...
I'm sure most of you have read through Jaydee's thread on rotrex engines..he mentions the importance of using a manual override system for the belt tension... Now I don't have ANY space in that area at all so that got me thinking.. I'm going to try and modify my k-tuned billet idler pulley so it can house a manual adjuster to put extra tension on the belt..
If I get a boss machined up that sits inside the k-tuned idler bracket then run a bolt through the top of it to push/pull the machined boss up and down.. Potentially a very simple fix that is nicely packaged.

 

Sounds like a good solution. Try and rubber mount one end if possible to give you a visual idea of the tension without getting out the tension gauge. It also softens some of the shock loadings during transients.
see post #3.
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=163201

I love your car almost as much as mine! Cheers Dan

 

I'll see if I can incorporate it into the setup. I have a good idea that should work.
It's the only realistic way I can install a manual override with the space I've got.

I've got another potential problem, because of the lack of space I have to use the oem TPS... But the engine is pretty much solid..so I'm not expecting it to last very long.. I've got an idea where I will cut off the flange off the excessive plenum and rotate it then weld it back on.. Then I can use a k-tuned Hall effect.

Fingers crossed I'll have a loom to fit to the car soon, then hopefully startup not long after

 

Hey Dan

My friend has developed a kit that utilises the b series TPS for our k series motors. After having numerous oem and an aftermarket TPS die on the rotrex eg, this kit has done well to last so far.

 

Hmmm... It uses a slim adaptor plate. I'll try to find out how much space it takes.

 

Any progress mate?

 

Yes, I should have some decent pics the weekend but my wiring loom is very nearly complete!! The quality is stunning!

The whole loom has been made with Rachem 44/55 wire with Rachem heat shrink and proper boots, it's all labelled too etc.. I've already had the chassis loom and it's in the car.. I will soon be ready for it's first start

Got a lot of little jobs to do then it will be off for mapping.

 

Arty picture... Hopefully have some worthwhile updates Monday

 

Fantastic... :thud:

 

I've got a few friends with k20 swap cars and they have all had problems so I'll sort it because I don't want it to ever be an issue. I don't want to be at the 'ring and parts fail on me. Plus the mounts I'm using are HARD... I can't even move the engine by rocking it with my hands.. It moves the car/suspension haha

 

Furry Muff

(= fair enough, for those not from the UK)