So a lots happened!

Couple of pics

 

Interesting choice on the Tillet seats...correct me if I'm wrong, but these are not FIAA approved correct?

 

Your correct.. They don't need to be for what I'm using the car for. If I was racing the car I'd just buy the b6F which has full FIA approval

 

Beautiful!

 

 

the car is looking sick! great progress on the build mate, are those hood vents just universal add ons,or a is this a aftermarket hood? it sure look great!

 

Cheers the bonnet vents are originally made to fit a bmw Mini Cooper but they fit strangely well on mine. They are from Italy and are quite pricey


Cheers Kirk

 

That's looking the dogs danglies....

 

My god you are realy taking this to the next level, the rear suspension setup looks awesome!

Where you at french car show?

 

Cheers

I was at fcs yes.. Not in my car though obviously

 

should've thought about it earlier, would've been nice to have a chat.

did you happen to see the old beige renault 9?

 

Did it have rust holes in the front arches by any chance?? I think i remember seeing it.. An thinking it looks cooool

 

Looking stunningly awesome buddy!

 

Lol, yes thats the one that's my driving project

 

Looked very cool


Been doing more bits and pieces on the car.. Been doing the bits that you don't really see but the jobs you tend to put off for another day

 

Well been re doing my water system as I wasn't happy with it.. There is so little space and the -16an fitting are huge! (And expensive)

After reading in the k-tuned thread I decided to get rid of the plastic thermostat housing as this is clearly not a road car so hopefully won't affect things.

After doing some reading I eventually came to this setup, hopefully mike or any of the k-tuned guys will see it and tell me everything should be ok.

Top housing
-8an hose



Bottom housing, I've used the larger port for the hose as it should flow more and is closer in size to the standard plastic part.



Thermostat mod

 

That looks very nice. That will work perfect. :up:

 

Just what I wanted to hear thanks Mike

 

Fingers crossed then

 

As this is a more track orientated car one could argue that you don't need a thermostat or the bypass pipe you've shown in the photos as their combined primary role is to speed up the warming of the engine from cold. I am pretty sure you'll be getting this baby well warmed up before taking her out anywhere. Once removed it would be one less path the water would want to take and therefore all coolant fluid would be flowing straight from the block to the rad and back, in this setup it would only take a few minutes longer to get warm if the car was static. You could remove all the insides from the thermostat housing which will again reduce resistance and blank off any other holes in it........only a suggestion..... maybe if you get over heating issues this could be an option...

Have you done a heater matrix blank as well, I would have thought you have with the setup as you have it currently, but cant see the whole engine?
Do they do heated windscreens for your car? These are ideal if you want to do a heater matrix blank and still want to see out of you windscreen on a colder day.

Other suggestions that come to mind - 1) Make sure the feed from your coolant header tank flows into the system in such a way that it flows both to the rad and into the block. 2) Having the ability to bleed off air at the top of the rad isnt a necessity but it helps to ensure all the rad is getting fluid into it, a simple tapped boss would do the trick. 3) if you're using aftermarket Gauges with their own temp sensors get the coolant temp sensor as close to the exit from the block as possible.


I don't mean to teach anyone how to suck eggs, I am only trying to impart the knowledge I gained from doing my car....if you knew all this stuff already then great, if you didn't maybe its helped......

 

Cheers Kirk, yea the car has no heater so all that's been blanked up.. I'm using a heated front windscreen to de-mist the screen.
I'm using a k-tuned upper coolant housing which has a built in rad cap so hopefully it will bleed from there.

 

Make sure you loop the heater pipe and head fitting. Do not block it up. We had overheating issue and this loop resolved it

We had exactly the same problem when we blocked our heater pipe outlet. I made a fitting and placed a 8mm breather tube from the cylinder head heater outlet to the k tuned upper coolant housing. I believe without this bleed a small air pocket is created in the head on cylinder 4. At high power levels the water boils there due to stagnant/poor flow.

I also had trouble with the k-tuned upper coolant housing. As my engine is rotated for a low centre of gravity the filler cap is only just above the head water level. On the K tuned housing there is no air below the cap for expansion, so when things get hot water was being dumped into the catch tank. When the engine cooled the cap did not suck back the lost water (I think due to air under the cap). I resolved this by replacing the k tuned cap with a welded larger and higher container with two pipes to a pressurized header tank. One pipe is a bleed at the top of both containers, The other is a 1/2" filler at the bottom. The cooling system is now perfect at all power levels and no water has needed topping up since.

 

Sounds like you've got it all under control. Best of luck getting it finished..

 

Where did you get the fitting for the swivel neck? And what size? I searched for m18 x 1.5 to -8 an and couldn't find anything.


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I got the fitting off eBay..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121320500002

 

Perfect, I snagged one. Thanks!


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Well I've decided to modify the kraftwerks bracket to add an Idler pulley into the bracket to gain more belt wrap like some of the other brackets. Hopefully this will drastically reduce belt slip.

I took the rear part of the bracket and milled a slot into it. Then made another piece with a stronger material but put a keyway into it so the steel boss doesn't fall out when I remove the pulley. Then countersunk the bracket so accommodate the idler pulley.

Some pics to explain better..









Also managed to get a nice steering wheel spacer machined up and now the driving position is just perfect!
It will be getting anodised black.



Also received the rest of my painted body parts so I'm fitting all those up now.

 

Well I've decided to modify the kraftwerks bracket to add an Idler pulley into the bracket to gain more belt wrap like some of the other brackets. Hopefully this will drastically reduce belt slip.

I took the rear part of the bracket and milled a slot into it. Then made another piece with a stronger material but put a keyway into it so the steel boss doesn't fall out when I remove the pulley. Then countersunk the bracket so accommodate the idler pulley.

Some pics to explain better..

Your car is fantastic as is the standard of your fabrication. If you need my bracket I have some available in black,red or blue at the moment. When I positioned the -91 with the idler roller I tried to ensure the belt wrap on both the crank pulley and the SC was maximum. This is important as the belt slips on the crank pulley as well at tensions under 500N. Good luck with your project. I am in for the results!

 

where did you get those fender flares?
Are those universal?

 

Yes universal

 

If I have any issues with my current bracket I'll invest in yours Jaydee but I've put too much work into it now to swap.

Hopefully I will have some more updates over the next few months.

 

 

Make sure you loop the heater pipe and head fitting. Do not block it up. We had overheating issue and this loop resolved it

 

Have you got any pictures? Which ones do you mean? Thanks for your advice

 

Absolutely love this such good work here

 

Thanks Scott


A few more pics.. Things are happening a little slower now. Need to make another order with k-tuned soon.