Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum banner
21 - 40 of 71 Posts
best to measure them all on the E-connector and compare to where they are supposed to go.
It might be a systematic error by this "tucked" company or it may be a random fault or just with just one of the workers or their documentation.
I have always build the conversion harnesses from acceptor car OEM engine looms and used the OEM Honda engine loom for the engine itself. Never had a problem.
 
Shout out to @Lotus for helping guide me! EDIT: Also I wanted to add, we are still using this harness with little problems. I ended up cutting and soldering in a factory connector to the crank sensor CKP and throttle pos sensor TPS. The connectors that come with this harness are junk and allow a break in contact intermittently because they fit loose causing insane stuttering/misfiring for the CKP and a bunch of throttle problems for the TPS. For others, this could affect other sensors, so it's up to you to figure if each connector is snug and monitor all data streams to make sure everything is functioning correctly, all the time. Keep this in mind if you do buy this harness, some do not have junkyards nearby. If you have one of those eBay / china tucked harnesses and are not getting spark and or your radiator fan turns on after cranking then you need to swap pins 7 and 20 at the C101 connector. I also recommend buying a quality solid ground lug for 16ga wire with a 5/16 hole and replacing the ring terminal on the harness. View attachment 110674
Can you text me pls 917-651-9666
 
Coils are fed with 12v from main relay through c101 pin 20. c101 9,14,20 should all be I interconnected and show 12v with ign on. Pin 7 is Fan control. ECU pulls it to ground to activate the fan. C101 pin7 should be connected to ECU B6 through the harness. Measure it with a multimeter.

 
have you read #27?
 
I didn’t have to do anything as I used an original Honda OEM engine harness for my conversion. I only build the conversion harness to connect the car to the engine/ECU/harness.

as you purchased an engine harness, you would need to check if on C101 pin 20 you see 12V with ignition on. if yes, check, that one of the pins on the ignition coils also shows 12V.
if C101 pin 20 shows 12V, but non of the ignition coil pins, than check if one of the three pins of the ignition coil connectors is connected to C101 pin 7. If yes, you would also need to swap 20 and 7.

On C101, 12V supply from the main relay is fed to C101 pin 9, 14 and 20. See pdf link.
C101 pin 7 activates the fan.

 
your car or conversion harness does that for you.
Don’t tie anything together if you don’t know what you are doing. :cool:
We first measure and figure out the issue before repinning anything.
Pin 7 on C101 will get pulled to ground by the ECU if it wants to active the fan.
If you add 12V to it, it will either blow a fuse or blow the ECU or both once it wants to activate the fan.

if the conversion harness works out correctly, you should see 12V on C101 9,14 and 20.
The issue your tucked harness likely has is on the engine harness side, not the conversion harness side.
or if you have no conversion, but a native K-series car not on the car’s harness side.

You may have to open your own thread and describe exactly what car you have, what conversion loom, what engine harness, which engine and ECU etc.
Then describe the problems you have. Best to also post pictures.

otherwise it will be very hard to help you.
I am sure we get this solved.
If nothing works, it usually has a simple reason.
 
Okay if I'm not mistaken I just used a test light to check and I don't have power on either side I think with the key and ignition of the c101 plug I do see two red wires running into seven the red and white wire two of them together and then I'll see you on 9 it's two black wires connected together and then on 20 it's one yellow wire by itself
 
21 - 40 of 71 Posts