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kommon_sense said:
I can't honestly say that I would bother with a damper unless you plan to see high rpms for extended periods such as on a road-course.
Wait what exactly does this do? When I let off throttle at high RPM (say about to enter a corner) the engine RPM fluctuates (RPM goes up and down as it slowly slows down from initial throttle release).

Would this damper help get rid of that? Are those the vibrations being discussed in this thread?
 
blackdc5 said:
Wait what exactly does this do? When I let off throttle at high RPM (say about to enter a corner) the engine RPM fluctuates (RPM goes up and down as it slowly slows down from initial throttle release).

Would this damper help get rid of that? Are those the vibrations being discussed in this thread?
No, it sounds like you have a tuning issue.

There is a certain amount of vibration that is in *any* drivetrain. This vibration leads to wear and will cause wear on the bearings. Honda/acura try to combat this with the stock balancer. The stock balancer has a rubber ring in it and it is tuned to a deal with this vibration in a certain rpm range.

This is where fluidampr/ati come into the picture with their dampers. Their dampers/balancers have an inert fluid/gel in them that is tuned to allow them to handle the vibrations through most of the rpm range and especially at higher rpms beyond the stock redline.

So on a road course where you are at high rpms for extended periods of time, a damper/balancer is a great addition for reliability.
 
Helps with the head also, there is a substantial amount of vibration from the crank transmitted to the cams via the timing chain. These dampers have been known to help reduce cam deflection in V8 OHV configurations, the gains should be even more in a DOHC setup where the chain distance from the crank to the cams is even longer.
 
kommon_sense said:
No, it sounds like you have a tuning issue.
Tuning issue?

My friend's B series motor does the same thing, and my old stock K20A3 motor did the same thing when you let off at high RPMs--RPMs would not smoothly decrease but decreases jerkingly. I thought it was normal as it only does it at high RPM.

Can you point me towards what I need to look at on my tune to make sure?
Cam angle maybe? Or a particular setting in parameters?
 
this is interesting. maybe try to do a datalog when your road racing/auto x'ing. I havn't driven my car near its limits in a while so I can't really comment on that but I think the stock crank pulley and crank are pretty well engineered/ balanced well from the factory where if I were auto x a couple laps here and there I would just add that extra 6th quart of royal purple (or whatever oil you prefer) to help out.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
qtmac_mien said:
would you need a shop to hone the damper or can you do it yourself to make it fit? im thinking about gettin one for my build
The center hub section is hardened steel, it needs to be power honed to fit at a machine shop. You will hardly break the surface with a hand drill and a cylinder hone.

I drove to my machine shop, jacked the car up, removed the pass wheel and then the crank pulley. My machinist then came out and measured the crank snout in about a dozen places and then honed the ATI to fit. Then useing a install tool we put it on the crank. My machinist only recommends the ATI balancer as the Fluiddamper is not a press fit and can not absorb much more than a OAM damper can.

It will be a bitch to remove with the motor in the car.

I FELT a difference as soon as she started up, a noticable lack of a almost imperceptible buzz/tingle. I never noticed the buzz/tingle before, but I did notice the lack of it! It felt more refined.
 
I bought myself one of these ATI super dampers for K20A2 straight from ATI after my flywheel came loose once.. Was about to get it honed but then I just took the damper and test-fitted it on a spare block I have lying around. The damper fit right in there with just a little tapping with my hand, and even came right back off without any puller with slight jiggling. I wonder has ATI changed the design so that the k20 dampers don't need honing anymore :confused: If the damper would be much smaller and require honing I doubt I could have installed and removed it that easily.. I guess I'll have to contact ATI on this.
 
before this thread i didnt really know much about dampers at all. i had seen it on others cars but never really cared to learn about them... after reading this whole thread i wonder if this pully could have helped all those people that have been having problems with there skunk2 cams and breaking chain tentioners?? sorry to kinda kill the thread i was just wondering if it could have helped?
 
before this thread i didnt really know much about dampers at all. i had seen it on others cars but never really cared to learn about them... after reading this whole thread i wonder if this pully could have helped all those people that have been having problems with there skunk2 cams and breaking chain tentioners?? sorry to kinda kill the thread i was just wondering if it could have helped?
thats what was going thru my head as i read this thread, although i doubt it would of saved the tensioners, it was a Cam problem.
 
back from the dead FYI - Fluidampr has a (street) K-series damper available with a 5-7/8" (5.88") diameter. I do not belive they need to be honed. I will let you know when I get around to installing mine. its part # 570601 :up:

I do not think they offer the old larger damper fyi
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
UPDATE

I decided to use the ATI on the K20 and ordered up a custom one for the K24 engine(but in a 7" dia.).

Here is the ATI SuperDamper compared to a stock A2 crank pulley.

Image




the ATI part#
Image


and installed
Image



I have to say there is a very noticable reduction in vibrations, much smoother at idle, and with the A/C on the only indication is a slight change in engine tone!
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
It isnt cheap, over 300 if I remember correctly. But I have steered my EP3 towards in the direction of civility with a nasty bite! LOL
 
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