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GoThanh - EK K24A3 time attack machine

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45K views 108 replies 26 participants last post by  davinadze  
G
#1 · (Edited)
Hi Guys,

Since that my k20 blew up I am building up my k24a3 as a replacement. So started a new thread for it.

I chose the K24A3 because that's the only k24 we can get in europe. I am located in the Netherlands.

Some pics of the car when it used to run.
Image


Image


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I decided to keep the internals of the k24a3 stock except for the head. But I won't rip the head of the bottom end. And I am also curious how the k24a3 will perform like CHILD does with his setup. I know putting a k20 head will perform a lot better but I don't have one due to my old one is unusable and ripping a fresh k24a3 apart also didn't make sense to me.

Pic of the engine:
Image


Gearbox:
-EP3 with 5.1 final drive (currently i have)
-Mfactory Helical LSD
-Carbon synchros

I know that the 5.1 final drive might be too short but I am going to try it out on the track (road race), it went well with the k20 so who knows xD

Suspension:
-Tein monoflex
-EK9 swaybars
-Energy suspension all round
-D2 camber arms
-Adjustable toe arms
-SPC front camber/caster arm
-5 Lug
-6 point roll cage
-Ultra racing 3 point brace

Wheels & Tires:
-225/45R16 AD08R in the front and 205 in the rear (might go wider in the further)
-Volk racing TE37, 16 inch 7.5J front and 7J rear

Brakes:
-Spoon 4 pot caliper
-EK9 rear caliper
-Front 282mm stoptech brake discs
-Rear 262mm
-Goodridge brake lines

And a lot more...

For video material you can search on youtube for GoThanh
 
S
#4 ·
Very nice build!

If you are racing on tight, stop/go style tracks, the 5.1 final drive will work very nicely with the K24A3. We run an EG with the same set up over here with great results.

Best of luck with it all
 
G
#6 ·
5.1 final drive together with the K24? If i look your thread you run a DC5 K20.

I did my last time attack with the 5.1 final drive but with the k20 engine and it ran great, but I wonder if the huge torque gain from the k24 doesn't overkill it a bit xD.

Im planning to try it anyways and then go wider tires if I still can't utilize the power.

And thanks guys! When Im back in the Netherlands ill start the build again. Now Im in Cleveland for work (project). Anyone near Cleveland?
 
G
#8 · (Edited)
Thx Peter!

Hopefully are the cams and valvetrain upgrades worth it xD

Got some more stuff :)

RDX injectors:
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CRV bracket:
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Checking springs:
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Degree wheel:
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I will use the checking springs and install the cams and measure the clearance at each degree before TDC on the intake side. The weak spring allows me to push the valve to the piston and with a dial indicator I can measure the clearance.

Still got some tools and parts waiting to get delivered (piston stop) and supertech seals and keepers to make it all fresh again.
 
G
#9 · (Edited)
Got some more goodies for the build. Sorry for the cellphone pictures... I need to buy a good camera :p

More valve train stuff:
Image


And finally my cams :D:D:D

Came with nice shirt and beanie
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Drag Cartel
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Big lumps :p
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So my setup will be a cammed k24a3 with stock compression, I know some aftermarket pistons would do better combined with lighter rods, but I will try to let this baby breath as good as possible with good bolt ons.
 
G
#12 ·
My old k20a2 had 243 HP on dyno dynamics dyno but that was even with a small exhaust. I am going to do it the right time this time.

Hoping to score somewhere around 280Hp ~260whp and 265+Nm torque. I will probably test and tune it to 8200 or little higher but for road racing I will rev max 8000 for reliability. But for on the streets I can jam it to the rev limit :p
 
G
#13 ·
Well I have been working a few days on the car trying to put a higher pace into it to finish the car for time attack.

How the car stands right now:



Stripped the engine:



Engine code :>>:


Naked!


Bald head!



RBB-3 head:


RAA bottom end:



Beefy Crank bridge and RBB rods:


Porting out the RBC intake for the K-tuned 80mm throttle body



bye bye IACV!



Upcoming days I will measure the clearances to see how much VTC I can run. And I will put the supertech goodies in the head and the drag cartel cams :D

Now I am waiting for some parts..
 
G
#16 ·
Not sure, on my last k20 I just bend the tube abit to prevent it hitting the bonnet. But I am not sure where to mount the K24. Lower or heigher mount on EKK2? Anyone know the info?

@BrakaT: I am going to install checking springs (weak springs) and then put a degree wheel on and measure on each degree before TDC the clearance by mounting a dial indicator towards the retainers. When the crank is positioned I press the valve in by hand (possible due to weak springs) and look at the dial for clearance.

Since that everything in the combustion chamber is stock I know that the only clearance issue might be P2V due to aftermarket cams.

I will take some pics when I will start doing the measurements
 
G
#17 ·
Yesterday I worked a bit on the car again. Still porting out the RBC intake for the K-tuned 80mm TB which is a lot of work because I have to remove soooo much material :p I will take some pictures when it's done.

And I also cleaned the engine and painted it







Hopefully I can start with the head today :)
 
G
#21 · (Edited)
Here are the results of porting out the RBC intake:











Was a tough job porting that all out but it looks good now. The IACV port looks like a rough transition but the IACV port goes behind the 1st runner so most of the air there will be sucked up.

Some pics during measurements:











Used a piston stop to determine the TDC





 
#24 ·
GoThanh said:
Ok guys I measured it again after doing a correct valve lash adjustments... With 30 degree VTC pin locked into the VTC gear my clearance on the intake side with DC 3.2 cams was 1.75mm which is 0.06889 inches.

What clearance should be sufficient for piston 2 valves? I've read 0.07 inches and 0.08 inches...

Wonder if it is still worth it to run the RBC gear for those extra 5 degrees....

So weird that Jeremy said it was possible to run 40 degree...

Anyone who can have any inputs in here?

My guess is that usually most of the cam angles are used in the lower rev range to gain more torque/power and in the higher rev range less angle.. like 29 or something to 6000 rpm and above like 14 or less..
Click to expand...
I was thinking that 30 was highest you can run but I'm not sure I think if its possibly to run the 30 then keep the rbc gear IMO
 
G
#26 · (Edited)
Latest update:

The head is finished but I am waiting for my oil pump kit to finish the bottom end.

Then I need to check my tranny again because it's whining a little bit since my last miss shift so I am going to check the bearings and the diff gap.

And I need to fnish my exhaust line, waiting for my header and need to fabricate a 3inch exhaust. Thinking about going with Kteller piping kit with Vibrant ultra quiet resonator and muffler. Hope that's enough to keep the noise down...

I am also going for an external oil cooler with a thermostat to keep the oil temperature down. With the k20 the oil temp went nuts...

And for extra monitoring I will also install an A/F ratio meter.

Some pic's



Supertech spring seats and valve seals:



Old vs new springs:


















Stay tuned!
 
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