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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #901 ·
I can appreciate the cars that need a real driver behind the wheelπŸ‘
With these old chassis one can learn handling a car very quick.

And this is why i stick with Front wheel drive. I don't have the skills for a good car so i need the easiest car to drive to stay on the road.
I started with a 720 kg FWD chassis hill climb races with just 60 hp on stock tires, which was way enough. I did much suspension, toe and chamber adjusting so that I finally had a FWD who was able to drift into corners to keep the front wheels on grip as long as possible. This was an amazing experience.

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This was a newer version of my 60 hp race car. This is '92 Opel Corsa A GSI with a 8V head and an EFI system, just 120 [email protected], but 700 kg gave one an beasty BMW, Audi, Porsche, and so on annoying reminder, power is not everything. Especially on serpentines, that beast was nasty fast. That car was great fun and I drove it when I was studying at around 43 mpg. A K-series under that hood would have made it a Porsche killer. It never came to an engine swap. I lost it '99 in the flood. There was a lot of sand and mud in all corners, oil system, gearbox. My family had a quarter million Euro damage on the farm. No time and money for reman, sold it to one who took it to Greece. Maybe it still drives around...

...anyway, FWD cars can be a challenge to drive. Especially if they have a K-series on board.
 

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I was once on a track day at Bilster Berg. There was a chap with a caged and stripped VW Polo and a lovely small engine on ITBs. He was running Toyo R888 semis and from the look of it had a lot of fun on this track including some FWD drifts I was able to witness. It was a quick car just like K swapped and track prepped early Civics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #903 ·
It was a quick car just like K swapped and track prepped early Civics.
Yes, this little beasts are really funny and sometimes underestimated in their race capacity. I still ask myself what would it be more on acceleration with plus 100 hp from a C20XE engine (86x86 engine, 16V head, the best 4 cylinder Opel/Vauxhall engine ever), not to mention if it would have been K-swapped. I saw some nice ones on a few 2nd hand car platforms and I am eager to buy one, just ratio is keeping me back :D. Adding 200 hp to a RWD 740 kg car feels different, as the power can be transferred better to the ground as in a FWD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #904 ·
EA113-1200 hp-Quarter Mile-project:
Made some progress, all data to define the piston specification was measured and summarized. JE Piston got a custom piston order for our pistons for this torque and power monster.

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DAMPFHAMMER project:
Made not much here. I've decided not to wait for the engine test stand as we see actually a bigger work package, which is waiting on men power, decisions and another invest. I assume this will expand the delay +1 year. We will rebuild the gearbox and the axle boot which released the grease at 140 mph, rework the harness and then I will take it to an dyno role if the engine test bench isn't finished yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #905 ·
DAMPFHAMMER project:
We pulled the tranny for an analyze and repair last Saturday

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Rear chassis demount.

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Preparing the demount of the engine-tranny-system

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1.5 h till that point, not bad for the first time. We found many untorqued bolts, I am almost happy the tranny stopped working. What may have happened loosing a wheel at 9500 rpm in 4th gear? The central nut of the left axis was just hand-tight and was already moved till 4 turns from beginning to loose windings of the threads. About different 6 people worked on the car, one of them (professional Lotus shop) forgot to refill the tranny oil.

That project went really apart, now my best buddy and I pull it back on track. I am glad to have now the right setup of guys around me to bring this to the right level of quality and quantity. Took me a long road till there. I hope any of the participants of this bet "You want to win $50" is able to excuse this huge delay through the mess I went through with this car.
  • 2015 start of construction and engine built
  • 2016 long block finished, installation of the longblock (tranny oil forget to refill)
  • 2016 to 2019 build of DAMPFHAMMER prototype parts and installation (about 6 bolts are hand-tighted only)
  • 2019 end of year tuning session
    • it began with an 650 km journey to location were the car sat to tune. I forgot my AEM infinity at home. Waited three days for it as shipping per express went cracy wrong. My failure, which hit me really hard. I utilized to prepare the car for tuning, but it was not as planned.
    • ECU arrived at around 5 minutes after I lost all hope as delivery time went off that day. A bit of learning I did that day ;).
    • ECU installed, nothing worked correctly. Sensor missing, wrong signals came in. About 25 hours of rebuild of harness, the guy accounted for this job made a mess, I had to teach me the stuff myself to get through it as I was a noob in wiring and electrical stuff
    • idle tuning took 6 h because for different reasons (damaged flange thread of TB causing leakage, tuning of the EWP with the PID function of the boost controller was tricky, leakdown rate went down slowly, ...)
    • during tuning one water leakage happened on the most far and complex position, took me 1 h to seal it
    • about 6 further harness failures came up during tuning session, most of them by broken wires. Took me about 10 h to find and repair them
    • from more then 20 h of paid tuning time only 4 were effective
    • one week for tuning,
    • stop during Christmas season
  • 2020 back for tuning, another week from home and family to get it finished. Started with high speed cam tuning, which came out really surprisingly:
    • 1st, around VTEC massive knocks, around 20/s at conservative ignition timings. I pulled iteratively 12Β° back without success. After some brainstorming and investigation of knock distribution and behavior in the loggings, I had an idea and retarded VTC by 10Β° and 20Β°. At 20Β° VTC no single knock was observable. Exhaust gases communicated from cylinder to cylinder. A short calculation showed me beyond 6000 rpm this wont be an issue again.
    • 2nd, despite 20Β° VTC the engine made 206 [email protected] rpm, which was the only operation point I was asking for the torque, as the screen was to far from my position and I was pretty busy with the tuning that innovative stuff, which had a lot of traps and non-standard situations beside the first time tuning with AEM from scratch and I had 36 customized functions on that ECU. I still have to grin from ear to ear when I remember that moment I had to setup 136 % of VE to keep lambda at 0.91 at full load. This was the highest VE I've ever seen on a NA engine. And it wasn't still the optimum.
    • 3rd, full load was a mess to tune as MAP oscillation was around 12 kPa due to the amazing efficiency of the alternation of load of that engine. I tricked around with a 2 Euro approach to dampen that signal down to +-2 kPa.
    • 4th, the axle boot on the right side opened it's safety release bore at 160 km/h. What a mess, the grease spread all around till the roof of the dyno room. I should have stopped there, but the driver said one more, I wasn't convinced...but also not clear in saying stop now.
    • 5th, again 5500 rpm at WOT, the tranny ventilation showed smoke, I stopped that engine immediately. Tranny box was sort of gleaming by heat.
The dyno adventure has stopped in a not funny way. I pulled the car back to the shop (60 km), drove home 650 km in a not good mood. Came back weeks later in a 36 h non-stop driving through traffic jams cross the country with an Lorry and pulled the car back home on this trailer. The car sits in a garage till January 2020. Plan was to built an engine test bench to finish the tune and more. Now as the project slowed down because of several reasons (s. earlier posts), I decided to go the conventional route. And here we are now :D.

Engine-gearbox-aggregate got pulled, dismounted and looked like this...

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1st till 3rd gear are blue colored, all needle cages are smoked away. We replaced the Y2M3 gear wheels with NPR3 stuff. The final drive with the 25 % Torson LSD was still fine. The wall film oil smelled burned all over. So back together...

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...ready to remount next Saturday.
 

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i am enjoying this thread is saying an understatement. thank you for sharing all of this, i am interested in every stage of this and look forward to reading this over and over again over coffee or tea. i love the Lotus btw. i need to be driving it at least once a year, well that was what the letter said that the Lotus sent me via email. hahaha your Lotus has a labtop?
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #907 ·
Thanks man for the kind words.

hahaha your Lotus has a labtop
No laptop, but a soft top ;). It is a Targa concept, open deck, but closed rear wall. So no cabriolet.
 

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when I got my gearbox back from rebuild, FD fitment and shimming, it had a tag on it with a warning big red letters:
β€žAttention: no oil filling!β€œ
I only removed it after filling it with oil. This is so easy to forget if you work on a car for longer.
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when I got my gearbox back from rebuild, FD fitment and shimming, it had a tag on it with a warning big red letters:
β€žAttention: no oil filling!β€œ
I only removed it after filling it with oil. This is so easy to forget if you work on a car for longer.
View attachment 105815
What did you do to the hardware to give it that coating I think it looks great πŸ‘
 

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I had this done by my local engine workshop. They use a series of chemical baths. Degreaser, etching cleaner and neutralization bath. The bolts were also cleaned and yellow zinc coated.
They used the same bath for the engine block before boring and honing.

I then spray painted block and gearbox with new cast alloy engine enamel paint.
 

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I had this done by my local engine workshop. They use a series of chemical baths. Degreaser, etching cleaner and neutralization bath. The bolts were also cleaned and yellow zinc coated.
They used the same bath for the engine block before boring and honing.

I then spray painted block and gearbox with new cast alloy engine enamel paint.
It was definitely a nice touch. I’m looking at diy kits right now πŸ˜†
 

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when I got my gearbox back from rebuild, FD fitment and shimming, it had a tag on it with a warning big red letters:
β€žAttention: no oil filling!β€œ
I only removed it after filling it with oil. This is so easy to forget if you work on a car for longer.
View attachment 105815
i love the oem bolts all over the place. i am doing the same.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #914 ·
Quite the story behind this project. It’s nice to see it still alive and the body of your car looks very nice. πŸ‘ I’m ready for some videos of the k20 lotus πŸ˜…
Thanks man. I will post some when it got back to street.

when I got my gearbox back from rebuild, FD fitment and shimming, it had a tag on it with a warning big red letters:
β€žAttention: no oil filling!β€œ
I just talked to the former mechanic who drained the oil of the tranny. He got fired before he could reassemble it. Seems there was no good transition made from that to his successor. At least a last quality check of that guy could have justified what they were billing me. They didn't anything, no scrip on the tranny, no message in the bill document, even no verbal warning. Nothing.

When I did tune it, the warranty was already expired. From a law and order side there is nothing to claim, from a moral side it would be fine they would apologize for that. Roughly I have to sum up 4500 Euro as follow-up costs. For me it was an expensive learning. Do It Yourself Whenever Possible (DIYWP)!

DAMPFHAMMER HD project:
Yesterday I got to a good basis in the simulation of different layouts and specs of the DAMPFHAMMER HD type engine, where HD stands for the German word "Hochdrehzahl", which means a derivate of the DAMPFHAMMER technology for a higher engine speed level. As we all know torque and power equals at 5255 rpm when ftlb and imperial hp are used. Doubling that engine speed, quasi 10,510 rpm, doubles the power at just the same torque. As an example: 150 [email protected] rpm result in 150 hp. If we double now the engine speed, we would see 150 [email protected],510 rpm result in 300 hp. From that simple coherence function we can conclude if we just need to widen the aimed torque bandwidth at the same torque level to the right in the dyno sheet, then we get more power.

That is what NA engines makes so funny, as they are limited by VE, combustion and mechanical efficiency to about 80 ftlb/Liter displacement. So we need just to gain this level at higher engine speed (= much lovelier noise) to gain more power. At the same time it makes it more expensive.
  • A peak power at 8000 rpm gives us 244 hp and can be built for around 6000 USD incl. tuning
  • A peak power at 9000 rpm gives us 274 hp and can be built for around 10000 USD incl. tuning
  • A peak power at 10000 rpm gives us 309 hp and can be built for around 20000 USD incl. tuning
A turbo engine with 600 hp can be built for 6000 USD incl. tuning. These are roughly costs, based on same durability, but not same maintenance interval's. NA tuning is beside the huge fun and more amazed experience of power pretty expensive.

The DAMPFHAMMER HD is an approach, having an 360 hp engine, idling smooth at 1000 rpm and specified for street use and with -500 rpm on redline for track use. It uses natural boosting effects to increase the specific torque and to widen it's best bandwidth. The DAMPFHAMMER technology changes the game, 98 ftlb/Liter are the peak power value. Resulting in a 2200 rpm lower engine speed one would have to use on a normal 80 ftlb/Liter engine setup. While the power is high, it still idles, because of iVTEC, still at 1000 rpm and still has a smooth transition from low to high speed cam.

I really like this concept, but it is still too expensive for me to get done at a gulp, component cost sum up to roughly 20 kUSD. From a relative standpoint, still not bad. Lowering of cost would be possible on cost of durability and by loosing some of the ponies. I am curious what would happen custom internals would be replaced by aftermarket and stock parts as far it makes sense :p.
 

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Markus you are a gift to the Honda community. the US Honda fans are stuck on the drag race mostly. i have always supported road course builds that can be used on the street for the most part (weekend leg stretching)
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #917 ·
...i have always supported road course builds that can be used on the street for the most part (weekend leg stretching)
Great you have interest on other application.

Guilty lol.
πŸ˜…

DAMPFHAMMER-project:
Engine and gearbox are married with the chassis again. During the assembly we found out the Tripod joint of the driveshaft was sort of brocken. Yes, I asked myself, what makes it possible that a Tripod don't transmit torque, outside there is a form shape for the tripod bearings, inside on the shaft there are teeths fixing both together. Here comes the answer.

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The responsible guy of the assembly before the tune had the task to solve the issue of having no link between the engine bounded axle shaft and the rim connector. The Civic drive shaft are too long and the CV joint at the axle mount is from GM (joint venture of GM and Lotus for the Opel Speedster, which shares the same chassis and some GM stuff). His task was to solve this. What he did was to shorten the axle, cutting the gearing teeth in the shaft and to put the Civic Tripod on it. Maybe he never heard from a locking ring, circlip or similar machine elements, which are typically used to keep the Tripod in place, no he weld it.

Other question why did it break. I assume it was too long and forces broke it. Where else was all the tension gone? The axle suspension 😬. I have to check this out. Working on that car is like mock out all the crazy failures of the guys, working on that car for money. I thought I exchange money for a competent work and proper result. Finally, when we went through the car and all the mock out is done, it will get fine tune and will show what it is able to put on the table. Looking back, the road ahead may looks bumpy or like a road full of nice stuff to learn. Thinking about the options, I take #2 :D.
 

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Honda conversions easily shear of the drive shafts if the groove for the lock ring has a sharp edge or the splines are machined without a transition into the "full" material.

Those tripods are also not of the enhance load type as Honda is using them but the cheaper type with those exposed needles. They don't last on track.

Enhance load tripods have tiling bearings on the tripod and flat outer surfaces running in the races of the cup.
Their mechanical losses are much lower even at larger driveshaft angles reducing CV joint temperatures.
Elise conversion suffer from large drive shaft angles.....

normal load tripods for lower loads and low driveshaft angels.




enhanced load Tripods as used by Honda Typ R K-series cars. Generally these are used in high powered cars, sports cars and you guessed it, transporters and commercial vans.

From Help with driveshaft/CV joint issue - K20 in Ariel Atom




encapsulated bearings that tilt on the tripod. There is an other Honda type where the bearing itself is spherical. Flat tracks in the joint.


and don't use any grease containing solid lubricants in tripod joints.

For the Elise what worked best so far is OKS422 for the inners and Neo HPCC #1 for the outers.
Don't tighten the small lock ring on the CV boots or fit a small breather, otherwise they pop open from the heat.

The before mentioned greases have pour points well above 200Β°C. You won't see even a single drop coming out of the small end of the CV boot despite have a "loose" end.
 

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Honda conversions easily shear of the drive shafts if the groove for the lock ring has a sharp edge or the splines are machined without a transition into the "full" material.

Those tripods are also not of the enhance load type as Honda is using them but the cheaper type with those exposed needles. They don't last on track.

Enhance load tripods have tiling bearings on the tripod and flat outer surfaces running in the races of the cup.
Their mechanical losses are much lower even at larger driveshaft angles reducing CV joint temperatures.
Elise conversion suffer from large drive shaft angles.....

normal load tripods for lower loads and low driveshaft angels.




enhanced load Tripods as used by Honda Typ R K-series cars. Generally these are used in high powered cars, sports cars and you guessed it, transporters and commercial vans.

From Help with driveshaft/CV joint issue - K20 in Ariel Atom




encapsulated bearings that tilt on the tripod. There is an other Honda type where the bearing itself is spherical. Flat tracks in the joint.


and don't use any grease containing solid lubricants in tripod joints.

For the Elise what worked best so far is OKS422 for the inners and Neo HPCC #1 for the outers.
Don't tighten the small lock ring on the CV boots or fit a small breather, otherwise they pop open from the heat.

The before mentioned greases have pour points well above 200Β°C. You won't see even a single drop coming out of the small end of the CV boot despite have a "loose" end.
nice read
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #920 ·
Thanks @Lotus for your experience on the driveshaft side. We will work out a solution like I proposed above with conventional machine elements. Of course we use approaches to reduce the notched impact effect.

This Saturday we will mount driveshaft and exhaust back, connect the harness and plug the ECU, fill up all liquides and run the engine to see how far we are from dyno ready. I've talked to an owner of a roller dyno about possible time slots to tune the DAMPFHAMMER.
 
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