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The block was originally a 2.0L (82.5 bore x 92.8 stroke), I modified a diesel crankshaft to work (95.5 stroke) and intended to overbore +0.5mm to 83 (2066cc), but the first machine shop trashed the block, machining into the main bearings, and the second machined the bores at an angle, so in the end I had to bore the second block twice to 83.5mm (2091cc). Thinner walls than I'd have liked, but it is what it is. At the time the early large port 20v head was the best option, older 16v VW heads are garbage, and 16v Oettinger heads are just too rare and a bit undersized. I had planned to use the stock cams to try to put peak power between 6000-6500 rpm.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter #822
The block was originally a 2.0L (82.5 bore x 92.8 stroke), I modified a diesel crankshaft to work (95.5 stroke) and intended to overbore +0.5mm to 83 (2066cc), but the first machine shop trashed the block, machining into the main bearings, and the second machined the bores at an angle, so in the end I had to bore the second block twice to 83.5mm (2091cc).
Sorry to read about your machine shop mess. That's not the way one want to start a built. Anyway 83.5 mm is even far more Lehmann (the one who was building the Audi S1 rally engine and many other official VW race engines) went with the 2.0 Liter DTM engines. Means a wall thickness of 2.25 mm in an iron casted block. That's challenging stuff. I hope it's cavity-free!

...At the time the early large port 20v head was the best option, older 16v VW heads are garbage, and 16v Oettinger heads are just too rare and a bit undersized. I had planned to use the stock cams to try to put peak power between 6000-6500 rpm.
I thought about the TFSI head (flap-less modified). Is that no option for you?

Last week we started to build the flow bench. I finished the frame, consisting out of Bosch Alu-60x60-profiles. This week the 4 x 1.5 kW vacuum cleaner engines-turbine-combinations will come, supporting up to 400-450 [email protected]" water column. I am really looking forward to flow my first K20 head.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter #823
DAMPFHAMMER preparation:
I've bought a new OEM oil pump for an Joe's concept improvement as I like to have the Bypass-opening later.

ÖldruckÜberDrehzahl.png


Actually the oil bypass opens at around 2200 rpm and 48 psi, relatively to atmosphere. This is still above the minimum Honda want's to see: 70 [email protected] and 300 [email protected] rpm or 10 [email protected] and 43.5 [email protected] rpm. I want to increase the opening level to feed the bigger bearing clearances not to force them to cavitate at higher engine speed. This can be an issue if oil is of lower weight and the bearing clearances are relatively big.
 

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Discussion Starter #824
What Joe wrote about it:

JoeMcCarthy said:
K20 oil pump spring

Keeping secrets only gives someone a competitive advantage if the competition isn’t as smart as they are. I’m pretty non-competitive so I don’t much care, that’s the reason I generally share things I learn. It has greater value that way since more people learn and benefit from it.
In my first experiment with the K20A oil pump I tried adding preload tension to the existing spring using a .200″ thick shim I machined, and that didn’t work too well but it gave me valuable information. At an 1,800 rpm idle the pump was showing 164 psi on the oil pressure readout. That lasted about 3 seconds, just enough time to turn the key off. What it told me was two things, the pump has plenty of capacity, and the shim approach wasn’t the best way to go. So then I started searching through my spring catalogs to find one that was just about the same length and diameter but wound from slightly thicker wire. The actual movement of the relief plunger in the pump housing is very small, so what I needed was a slightly stiffer spring. No luck in the spring catalogs, so I went to the McMaster-Carr catalog on the slim chance they’d have what I was looking for. It’s part number 9657K116 and they only sell them by the dozen so you can give the rest to your friends. At just $5 a dozen this definitely qualifies as one of the cheapest fixes known to man. The one modification I make is in grinding the ends flat since I couldn’t find one that came that way.
Now I suppose I could have people send me oil pumps and pay me $50 to install the “magic” spring, but I figure this is the better approach. I’ve got more important things to do with my life than fiddle around with oil pumps all day. One word of caution, be really careful when reinstalling the spring that you don’t cross-thread the cap. Honda uses some REALLY fine pitch threads on this thing and since you’re going to be leaning on it pretty hard just to get it started it’s very easy to cross-thread them if you’re not careful.
Take care,
Joe
I checked out McMaster Carr, they won't ship to Europe, there business dependence wants to have 90 Euro for one single spring, while in the US 12 of them cost only 7 USD. I've asked the spring specification at McMaster Carr and do my research here in Europe finding one similar.
 

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I thought about the TFSI head (flap-less modified). Is that no option for you?
FSI motors were fairly new in the US when I started the build and the DI systems weren't well supported in the aftermarket either, so it wasn't much of an option at the time unfortunately.
 

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What Joe wrote about it:

I checked out McMaster Carr, they won't ship to Europe, there business dependence wants to have 90 Euro for one single spring, while in the US 12 of them cost only 7 USD. I've asked the spring specification at McMaster Carr and do my research here in Europe finding one similar.
Had to do a bit of digging on this one, it sounds like it's a cavitation in the oil pump issue with the K-series?
This is what I found: K-Series Oil System Upgrades - Under Pressure - Honda Tuning Magazine

Are you going to modify the pump clearances or do any porting to smooth the oil flow paths?
 

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Discussion Starter #827
FSI motors were fairly new in the US when I started the build and the DI systems weren't well supported in the aftermarket either, so it wasn't much of an option at the time unfortunately.
Understood. The VAG thing isn't that worth as a Honda K20 thing. Isn't that the better route to investigate?
 

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It's really the route I want to take with the Exocet, light weight, simplicity and more power. It would definitely be easier and cheaper to use a turbocharger on the miata engine, but the aerodynamics are already non-existent which makes cooling a challenge, and the added complexity and weight aren't what I want.
 

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Discussion Starter #829
Had to do a bit of digging on this one, it sounds like it's a cavitation in the oil pump issue with the K-series?
This is what I found: K-Series Oil System Upgrades - Under Pressure - Honda Tuning Magazine
I also read that years ago, asking me is there really cavitation at the inlet of the K20A2 oil pump happening? I know some crazy builds, running heavy oil weights, engine speeds over 9000 rpm regularly on the track and none of them died from a oil starvation issue. May someone consider the K20 users as huge shapeable customer community by feeding them with rumors about oil cavitation to sell their solutions. I am not sure about that. But I know I never saw any evidence about this issue on a K20 oil pump, nor on a dismantled engine and nor any measurement curve of a K20A2 oil pump which showed clearly the oil flow breaks down at somewhere around 9000 rpm. Many make business, as many don't know and want to be on the safe side with their expensive built engines.

Are you going to modify the pump clearances or do any porting to smooth the oil flow paths?
I am going to increase the bypass opening force to lift the threshold where the oil-pressure-engine speed curve goes flat and I will improve the flow efficiency of the outlet. That's all for that little side project.
 

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Discussion Starter #830
It's really the route I want to take with the Exocet, light weight, simplicity and more power. It would definitely be easier and cheaper to use a turbocharger on the miata engine, but the aerodynamics are already non-existent which makes cooling a challenge, and the added complexity and weight aren't what I want.
That means you keep your K-series engine for the Exocet natural aspirated. That sounds great to me. Nothing is more challenging and more fun to build as an simple looking but well performing NA engine. I have huge respect for the guys in the 60'ies to the 90'ies, which made huge effort in their cars to be able to compete in their race class. They were not gifted with an B- or K-series engine, but made their way to success on levels even the K-series has challenges to reach. E.g. Lehmann and Spiess racing made around or little more then 300 hp out of the 20V head VAG engine or the C20XE engine. If you look at the intake ports alone, you get really scared how they manage to get this at around 8500 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #831
Too much other projects at the moment. Engine dyno is around 70 %, the room itself is finished, outside coolers and piping has to be done incl. control panel. Flow bench is nicely working. We are going to implement now the measurement and control part next, around 80 % finished. Started a new drag race project (1200 hp, VAG basis) for an AUDI Quattro (2 %, concept phase, LOL :D). Thought about a testing a water-methanol-injection for the DAMPFHAMMER to test it for other projects, especially the highly boosted ones. I think I will give it a trial (s. Water Methanol Injection in NA K20/K24).
 

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Here is a short update:
  • the DAMPFHAMMER engine sits well and untouched in the car which sleeps in the garage, other projects, which are dedicated for the progress of it, slowed the repair and tuning down.
  • engine dyno room progress is at around 75 %. Electricity is fabricated as far as we could do it. Next week the Electrician come and will finish it. Engine dynos are seated well into the room. Installation of the media (water, electricity and electronics) comes next.
  • flow bench is almost finished, my colleague said to me last Friday, "...stop reading the manual...", the one for the flow bench controller, "...no I show you the workshop Master style...". I asked him to wait, because I still didn't read it fully and had no glue what we have to do, but it was his hardware, so I was asked to plug the 230 V for the 12 V Transformator source in. I've done it the next what I heard was "STOOOOOOOPPPPP!". The little card made some respectful smoke. We looked each other, I winked with the manual and followed my previous task and read. During the next to lines I read loudly, "...when running an external voltage supply make sure the Jumper J1 is pulled off!" Just two line further reading...🤣. I had some funny 10 minutes next, my colleague wasn't that happy...tststs. Sometimes theory need to inhaled before doing the practical stuff 😉. Next card will be hear next week. I was asked to read the manual carefully...
  • Main side project cost me 40 h of SW and setup issues handling and running simulations, but know we have an serious turbo specification for our 1200 hp engine project. Calculating the boosted engine stuff takes a lot of more effort because of integration of the compressor and turbo mapping and the stabilization of the equations system residual when Wastegate duty cycle, turbo shaft speed are free variables of the boost level in addition with different working points on the compressor and turbine wheel maps. It need about 3 h for 4 engine speed points. So changing the engine setup is only possible 4-5 times a day. Digitalization of those wheel maps took me around 4 h each turbo. A NA engine is much more handy. We will use one of the AirWerks turbos. Housing geometry and series are...🤫
 

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Discussion Starter #834
Hurry up & get it on the dyno :)
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Will still take some time. Engine dynos are placed on their objected place in the dyno room. Re-cooler for coolant came yesterday. Need a fresh up before installation...

102732


A VAG DTM-head (German Masters Championship) on our flow bench. Actually I program the closed loop control of the under-pressure.

The design of our 1/4 mile engine is roughly finished at simulation level. The 1200 hp at 2000 ccm goal can be met according it.

102733


A customer RSP IM we finished lately. I've tuned some engines also lately. All those slows the progress of the DAMPFHAMMER, but it is still a progress M111 :)
 

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Discussion Starter #836
Looks like you have a nice toy shop to play in (y)
Not mine, it's a corporation to synthesise the practical experience, knowhow and capability of my friend and my theoretical experience, capability and knowhow in one force. Aim is to develop high end race engines, especially with German focus, but also international. Engines from all well known brand are our basis, we bring it there where our customer need it and a bit better then our competitors does it. It's a longer way to get there if you work only at the weekend and evenings on it. Nothing cheap, nothing easy, only at highest quality for best performance. We go for records, nothing less.
 

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Discussion Starter #837
102859


First head on the flow bench. It's a quick measurement of a 300 flwhp DTM (German Touring Car Masters) head (5-valve type) without valves. I need to calibrate all the sensors and the power unit need to supply the 5 kW as the 28 "H2O wasn't reached on the non-valve head.

For further measurements I need to order a valve timing degree kit for the K-series. Any suggestions which kit does the job right? It should contain an degree card on crank side, low pressure springs, micro meter and it's bracket to fix it aligned with the valve axis. As well as some helpful tools: degree card bracket bolt, valve spring release kit, and so on. All the tools I need on the engine jack stand to degree my cams or just to fixture the valve lift on the flow bench. Suggestions to that would be appreciated and welcome :).
 

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View attachment 102859

First head on the flow bench. It's a quick measurement of a 300 flwhp DTM (German Touring Car Masters) head (5-valve type) without valves. I need to calibrate all the sensors and the power unit need to supply the 5 kW as the 28 "H2O wasn't reached on the non-valve head.

For further measurements I need to order a valve timing degree kit for the K-series. Any suggestions which kit does the job right? It should contain an degree card on crank side, low pressure springs, micro meter and it's bracket to fix it aligned with the valve axis. As well as some helpful tools: degree card bracket bolt, valve spring release kit, and so on. All the tools I need on the engine jack stand to degree my cams or just to fixture the valve lift on the flow bench. Suggestions to that would be appreciated and welcome :).


Not sure if this has everything you’re looking for.?
 

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Discussion Starter #839
Not sure if this has everything you’re looking for.?
Partly yes KBuilt, thanks. I knew the Mike Belben Kit. What I am also searching is a valve spring release tool to dis- and assemble the valve springs properly. There is a tool available at hptautosport.com, maybe there is a tool available which is already in Europe produced. I am looking for input on that too :).
 

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Discussion Starter #840
Meanwhile in the south, the TFX pressure indication system arrived on Monday. Yeah. It contains four 5000 psi capable pressure transducers in the custom spark plugs, a data collector and a data management box incl. the cabeling from the spark plugs till the USB at the Laptop.

102885


I am looking forward to analyse the combustion of the DAMPFHAMMER to see if my calculations are gone well and to learn and improve a lot more with other projects. Where is the bench?!
 
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