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Discussion Starter #1
well i have a k20a2 civic eg hatch DX...It dynoed 210 hp to the wheels with a cheap short ram i made and a 2.5 inch exhaust into a EK type R muffler with a tri-header with a 2.5 inlet....last time i went to the track i didn't get good times because of my 60 foot and massive wheel hop...also had on some street tires set at 25psi..Also have a traction bar...this time i go i will be using some slicks i bought on some 14 inch steelies not sure what size haven't look at them in a while but just wondering roughly what i should run any clue anyone? Also my 60 foot from last time was like 2.8,2.7, 2.6 i knoe thats horrible..my speed was at 102mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have slicks but no lsd so scared to break it..?...just haven't had the time to go back...also what do peeps usually launch it at with slicks my 2 step is set up 5600 rpm is that high enough? kinda scared cause last time it had massive wheel hop and i was wondering is that gonna happen with the slicks?
 

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wheel hop is due to the radial street tire and the pavement of the track.

with slick you won't have wheel hope issues plus the traction bar eliminates any plausibility of having wheel hop with slicks.

set the slicks to about 10psi heat it up with a burn out that will get tires sticky and expand the air to raise the pressure to about 15psi when the tires get warm. set the 2step on k-pro to ~7000 rpm pre-load the tranny once again make sure you pre-load the tranny & no power shifting so you don't kill the second gear.

that should put you at least in the 12.8 @ 105mph range.

play with different RPM launches & different tire pressures to see what your car likes & if you have on board data logging use it since that's your best tool to get to know your car better & improve your own driving.

oh i hope you remember to preload the transmission so you don't brake axles or worst damage your transmission

good luck.
 

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wheel hop is due to the radial street tire and the pavement of the track.

with slick you won't have wheel hope issues plus the traction bar eliminates any plausibility of having wheel hop with slicks.

set the slicks to about 10psi heat it up with a burn out that will get tires sticky and expand the air to raise the pressure to about 15psi when the tires get warm. set the 2step on k-pro to ~7000 rpm pre-load the tranny once again make sure you pre-load the tranny & no power shifting so you don't kill the second gear.

that should put you at least in the 12.8 @ 105mph range.

play with different RPM launches & different tire pressures to see what your car likes & if you have on board data logging use it since that's your best tool to get to know your car better & improve your own driving.

oh i hope you remember to preload the transmission so you don't brake axles or worst damage your transmission

good luck.
might b a stupid question but wat do u mean when u say pre load the tranny
 

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wheel hop is due to the radial street tire and the pavement of the track.

with slick you won't have wheel hope issues plus the traction bar eliminates any plausibility of having wheel hop with slicks.

set the slicks to about 10psi heat it up with a burn out that will get tires sticky and expand the air to raise the pressure to about 15psi when the tires get warm. set the 2step on k-pro to ~7000 rpm pre-load the tranny once again make sure you pre-load the tranny & no power shifting so you don't kill the second gear.

that should put you at least in the 12.8 @ 105mph range.

play with different RPM launches & different tire pressures to see what your car likes & if you have on board data logging use it since that's your best tool to get to know your car better & improve your own driving.

oh i hope you remember to preload the transmission so you don't brake axles or worst damage your transmission

good luck.
x2:up::up: that exactly what I would do
 

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/\ preloading is a combination of using the e-brake while slightly engaging the clutch just enough to feel the car try to pull forward while staged. this loads up the transmission and results in alot less SHOCK once you fully engage the clutch. when it's time to go, drop the handbrake and clutch at the same time and you're off. Helps your tranny last, and helps your 60fts as well. takes some getting used to though, i still have a hard time with it sometimes :up:
 

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Well i have a bone stock K20a2 not tuned on a eg and i went 12.7 @108 60ft was 1.82 and that was on 22inch slicks @ 9 1/2psi you should be alright to hit a 12.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yea i have the same ones....but yea my friends where making fun of me and my car's time because i didnt get a good time due to traction but i'm glad i knoe that my car's got potential...also i told them my car should be doing 12s but they said i would be lucky to even hit 13s but i'm happy with your replys and inputs...i'm new to the k-series so i mean i dont know what they can do...
 

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/\ preloading is a combination of using the e-brake while slightly engaging the clutch just enough to feel the car try to pull forward while staged. this loads up the transmission and results in alot less SHOCK once you fully engage the clutch. when it's time to go, drop the handbrake and clutch at the same time and you're off. Helps your tranny last, and helps your 60fts as well. takes some getting used to though, i still have a hard time with it sometimes :up:
yeah like he said or you can do it without the use of the E-brake by just engage the clutch till the point that you fell that the car wants to move, kinda like holding the car still in a light up hill by just using the clutch, you don't have to worry about the gas, it's already 100% with the 2step at 7000 rpm so that car just wanna go and brake into the 12s :D. just practice you will get it down :up:
 

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yeah like he said or you can do it without the use of the E-brake by just engage the clutch till the point that you fell that the car wants to move, kinda like holding the car still in a light up hill by just using the clutch, you don't have to worry about the gas, it's already 100% with the 2step at 7000 rpm so that car just wanna go and brake into the 12s :D. just practice you will get it down :up:
Very useful information.:up:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
nice to know the only thing i'm worried about is breaking my cheap axles these are not hasport or anything like that there custom some how by using the rsx-s axle but where it goes into the hub i have the b-series tulip on it...also its not LSD so scared to launch it high with slicks..has anyone had any problems with non-lsd and launch on slicks on a k20a2?...just worried cause last time i ran on my street tires they felt like they where gonna break..due to massive wheel hope..even when feathering it still wheel hop? any suspension tuning? i have k-sport..
 

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if your wheel hop is that bad on street tires & the axles haven't broken then you are fine. with slick you want it to have some initial spin just a bit when you release the clutch so u don't brake the axles also so the car doesn't bug if it hooks really good. that's why i said 7000 or so rpm launch if it spings too much lower the 2step & if it bugs raise it, and by you preloading it you are taking stress from the tranny & axles but the clutch take more punishment also just don't dump the clutch even if you are pre-loading it release it smooth as possible but fast enough. that helps with the axles too.

sounds tricky/complicated but once you start practicing you will get it down.

do you have a stock clutch? if not which one!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yea its has a stock clutch...thanks for the inputs i been practing on my street tires...so i think it helps alot thanks man just scared you know...i knoe i made 210 to the wheels and i should be pretty quick..have dyno sheet if anyone wanna see it..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
heres my dyno sheet this is without my karcepts CAI that i just got and my 2.5 custom axle back i just put on since last time it was just a stock EK type R axle back....needs to be retune to see what kind of power i'm making now..



 

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oh so with the stock clutch you don't have to worry that much @ 7000 rpm it most like the clutch will spin a little so it be easier on your axles & tranny. but start saving for a new clutch kit the stock one will die in a few months launching at 7000rpm or so. it all depends on it's current condition.

i like the competition clutch stage 4 sprung kit has a good grip but the pedal is not that hard so it can be daily driven
we have that clutch in 4 different EG k-swapped cars & we love it: one with a modified k20a3 motor with type-s internals making about 200 WHP another cc stage 4 on a stock type-s making 215WHP also an a modded type-s making over 300WHP & another eg with a modded k24/k20 too.
we never tried a k-series swapped EG with a stock clutch but I've seen people that a stock clutch last them almost a year. it all depends on how often you drag race the car.

by looking at your graph try launch at 6300 see how it behaves at the track also what's your shift point somewhere around 8400rpm?
tell your tuner to spend some time on your vtec map most likely by messing a bit with the fuel map he can make it smother maybe gain 1 to 3 whp here and there like that dip around 8200 rpm
good luck & let us know how you do at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yea i do need to get my fuel maping tuned because the whole time all he was doing was tuning my ignition timming and got it up that high i was surprised he didn't touch nothing else thats why i'm confident that i can get more power out of this...im not gonna drag race it as much as i street race it also not gonna be street racing it on slicks...only wanna see what i car can hit...also this tuner in my towns not good with k-series not very many here only 2 here...so i have to travel to another place to get a real good tune...but thanks man i will update if i ever run it or even post a video....my red line is set at 9300 but i only take it up too 8500 at the most..
 
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