[anjapower]

I have an EP3. I have the following mods: AEM CAI, Comptech Race Header, Comptech Exhaust, Hondata Reflash, Hondata IM Gasket. With these mods I put down 165 whp and 135 wtq. I am almost set on swapping in either the A2 or the A and bolt on all of my current mods.

It seems that the k20a2 can be had for around 3k, and the k20a for around 5k. I know the differences in between the two motors, but just wondering what you guys recommend. I am not really sure what I will do as far as mods after the motor swap, but I'm leaning towards either N/A or SC. Right now I'm just tossing up the idea of either building up the K20a2 with the 2 grand that I'd save, or just go for the K20a.

What do you guys think is the wiser decision? I'm a recent college grad so money will be an issue, but if it is much wiser for me to get a k20a right off the bat, then I'd rather save up for that.

Thanks.

 

[R-Spec]

well i'd get a k20a ova a k20a2 b/c of the lil differences but mainly for the tranny...

 

[nikos]

Here's another option as well.

$1000 for a k24a off an american accord, element or cr-v.

Put that in the civic and mate it with the 5 sp tranny.

Sell the k20a3 longblock on ebay for $1500 obo and with that money buy a k20a2 head. Slap it on the k24a and torque owns you....

At this point you can keep all the internals stock and turbo it getting around 300whp with the stock k24a crank or go the n/a route.

Tell me your thoughts about this,

nikos

 

[anjapower]

I've contemplated the K24 route, but I've read that the deck height increases by ~20mm. This will cause clearance issues with the exhaust manifold and the swaybar. My comptech race header barely clears my RSX-S front sway, maybe 2mm of clearance at most. I don't know how I'd resolve the clearance issue short of scrapping my 1000 dollar header

Besides, I'm sorta apprehensive about boost, and the fact that the K24 really can't rev that high safely w/o destroking. I sorta wanna keep tabs on how much I end up spending on this car. Although powerwise the K24 block is key, the other issue that is pretty important to me is reliability. The fact that I will end up revving the K24 way past its factory redline isn't too comforting for me.

I think if I end up going with a swap instead of boosting the A3, I'll most likely stay N/A to keep total $ invested low.

 

[TypeRWanter]

Heh. A full N/A buildup on the old B18C series would run the same, or MORE than a turbo buildup.

 

[drhonda]

I picked an A2 mostly because of price, but LSD would be real nice, but i can always add it later... :lol:

 

[anjapower]

Heh. A full N/A buildup on the old B18C series would run the same, or MORE than a turbo buildup.

what are you talking about? What is this relevant to?

 

[TypeRWanter]

Heh. A full N/A buildup on the old B18C series would run the same, or MORE than a turbo buildup.

what are you talking about? What is this relevant to?

He said he wanted to go N/A because it would be cheaper.


A good N/A buildup is NOT cheaper.

 

[speedbreed]

what does FD mean
and whats A2 and A3?