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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What is the correct length to a intake pipe or piping system for the K20A, K20A2, K20Z1, K20Z3 86X86 engines, the 2.0L ?] Might sound like a general question because there are so many intakes on the market for this engine. I will start with my set up and give participation.

I have a 2002 DC5-S K20A2 PRB cams, intake manifold, 62mm TB and stock header cat and exhaust. Engine has 157,000 miles. I have two intakes. A AEM 3" CAI model. I am not using it. I am using the oem black intake hose with a custom transition piece and a K-Tuned 3.5" velocity stack filter combo. A DIY SRI. The bottom of the air box makes a great heat shield to add. Sounds amazing and similiar to a turbo spoiling. I can hear it with no exhaust.

I need to do the exhaust I know. It is just cool to play with the intake before making alot of changes. As this goes along I am going to make a few different lengths of these simple SRI's.

I came about using the oem black intake tube and trying for shits how a K-Tuned 3.5" velocity stack fit inside the tube. I didn't know it would end up so well. However a lip existed on the rubber intake hose at the 3.5" line up. So I made a custom piece which added 3" to the intake system. Getting rid of the lip and smoothing out the transition. I will have to measure the length of the intake tube.

A 3.5" X 3.18" transition was created. I must say it smoothed the low end out big time and enterance into VTC. VTEC just got better. I always felt the typical aftermarket CAI system tubing length was too long. When I had a K20a2 with stg.2 cams and a SC K24 and felt a SRI was best. I want to play around with the lengths & DIA intakes. Ram Air mechanical intakes rather.
I Have a ported RBC , Z1 cams, and a 65mmTB to test with. So this should be fun keeping up with this post.


*** the Blue marker on the fit up pic is on the velocity stack so it looks like I left out huge areas to still remove

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What is the correct length to a intake pipe or piping system for the K20A, K20A2, K20Z1, K20Z3 86X86 engines, the 2.0L ?
Depends on where you want to see changes and where your engine setup need support to perform according the application. The most easy are those like you did, the short ones. No clearance issue, intake pipe ID is not of that significance like it is with long CAI's. The disadvantage of SRI's are the cold air part. Here are housings and feeders helpfully...

...I didn't know it would end up so well. However a lip existed on the rubber intake hose at the 3.5" line up. So I made a custom piece which added 3" to the intake system. Getting rid of the lip and smoothing out the transition. I will have to measure the length of the intake tube.
Did you tune the VTC, ignition timing and fuel after the modifications?

I Have a ported RBC , Z1 cams, and a 65mmTB to test with. So this should be fun keeping up with this post.
I am looking forward to see your results, this is a bunch of power parts there you have :).
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No tuning done yet. I cant afford K-pro and tuning. So all my bolt-ons have to wait until I can do it at once. It all works out for the best. Avoiding multiple trips do a dyno is smart.

The am not a fan of aftermarket thin Aluminum intake pipes. The route sucks and they are too thin. I have a 6' piece of schedule 40 3.12" I.D. Aluminum pipe (3.5" O.D.) for intake fabrication. It is heatsoak proof. the piece I just made kept the velocity stack cool to the touch. I am excited about installing both thermal IMG's, PNP RBC and trying different Intake lengths. I would have to re-locate the battery to build the original intake design I planned. The SRI works fine with a heat shield and ram air feeder tube. Better than the typical CAI 90deg bend right right in front of the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
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I picked up a k20z1 prb-1 head. The Hondata IMG lined up terrible on intake ports and gasket. #1 worst, #2 not a bad, #3 better not by much , and #4 perfect line up with intake port. I am looking forward to checking the Hondata gasket on a 2002 PRB head. Btw the z1 prb had huge burs on intake port edges from a bad mil job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Since I got the z1 head complete knowing that number 3 piston exploded. I wanted the same cams, same towers, and cam gears, valvetrain, valves if good, rockers, valvecover that came immediately cam off the block. They are covered in clean oil, bagged up, supported well and boxed up waiting until I get Kpro.

The #3 combustion camber has damage on the flats. Not to bad. Not the bowl and valvefaces. I will check the valvefaces again. I could repair do weld build up on the flats and have it milled back down again. I need to find a weld procedure - preheat amps and all.

Isn't is best to bore a 86 to 86.5..87mm ??

I plan on using my 2002 PRB head with a complete k20z1 matching head set. Same Z1 cams, Z1 towers, Z1 rockers, Z1 valvetrain..etc. A port matched RBC. I won't weld the plenium on until I switch over the whole PRB intake assembly. With the plenium off I can see the intake port line-up. Some oem heads need a light needle round file to hit gasket, intake manifold, and intake port. Thus maybe "the factory freak engines" we have heard about have a great line up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
View attachment 100403

K-Tuned RSX 409 Steel Race Header 2.5" Exit. I am sending it off for thermal coating after I weld as much of the slip joints up. Some are big gaps for header slip-joints. Burns Stainless megaphone 2.5" x 4.5". Burns Stainless 4.5" X 4". Burns Stainless 4" x 3". Vibrant SS Flex. 3" SS to Vibrant 3" Ultra Resonator. 3" x 2.5". 2.5" to Vibrant 2.5" SS Black Muffler. Vibrant V-Bands (3). About less than $400. Burns $160. Header $320. $880 for a nice SS exhaust.

My exhaust won't be too loud. If it is then I can and another resonator.
 
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