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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What fuel pressure is normal??? Regulator won't adjust. And other problems

I got all my fuel lines hooked up now. My set up is Aeromotive regulator and filter and walbro fuel pump.

What fuel pressure should I set it at?
What should the fuel pressure read when car is idling (if different)?

Right now when I turn the ignition on the fuel pressure jumps to over 80psi when priming, then drops back down to 20 psi. Is that normal???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
But it is normal for it to prime at over 80 psi though right? And it should start up with just 20 psi before start up?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. Will start it up in the next day or two. Just doing some inspections making sure everything is ok. And finishing brake line tuck so i can put the heater back in to connect the coolant lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Which way do I turn the adjusting screw on the Aeromotive regulator to lower the pressure. I tried both ways and the pressure is bouncing on 100 psi!!!
 

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Which way do I turn the adjusting screw on the Aeromotive regulator to lower the pressure. I tried both ways and the pressure is bouncing on 100 psi!!!
How do you have it hooked up?
Is you fuel pressure regulator installed before or after the rail?
Take a pic if you can.
 

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yea, use the allen wrench, loosen that baby up! shes looks like theres no threads showing almost! :0
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i loosened it all the way and its still near 80-90 psi... I don't have a catback system on it. could the ecu be sending more fuel because of that? I am using the tuned stock k20 calibration from kpro. Maybe its because of that? And my IAT is unplugged, no intake. Im also running an aftermarket walbro fuel pump if it means anything...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It idles ok even though my fuel gauge is reading at around 90 psi. Is there anyways to see fuel pressure on kpro? I'm also getting an error code p0340 CMP sensor no signal. My A/F ratio is 14.69:1.

I have summit racing liquid filled gauges. Maybe there's something wrong with my gauge. Because of the angle it's sitting at, the liquid only fills halfway. Seems like the needle likes to stay in the area where the liquid is. Can someone varify this? Should I mount my regulator somewhere else?
 

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Try a different gauge. My buddy bought a brand new russel on and said 40psi and either way we turned it never changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll try another gauge tomorrow... Anyone know anything about the p0340code?

Using hybrid PNP harness, Kpro, untouched engine harness (every wire is stock).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Would I do this by testing the voltage at the battery and comparing it to the voltage I get at the sensor?

update on the fuel pressure: I swapped another pressure gauge in and it reads the same pressure. Around 90 psi. Adjusting the screw does nothing...

As you can see from the picture, I didn't connect the vacuum on the FPR, I read on another post that said if your car was tuned with FPR connected with vacuum, you need the vacuum line. I am using the stock k20a2 basemap off hondata. Could that vacuum be the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ran through the diagnostic for the P0340 code. Found out I was getting voltage in all the right places so wiring is good. I took the sensor out and saw that one of the pin was bent!!! straightened it out and no more code! After this was fixed though, I got a P0134 code - A/F sensor No Activity? Didn't have this code until after the other code was fixed. It doesn't come on until the car have idled for about 3-5 min. or so. Again I don't have piping after the header yet. Could that be the cause?

The fuel pressure is still bouncing at 90 psi though... Neither turning the adjusting screw clockwise or counter-clockwise does anything. It doesn't raise the pressure or lower the pressure... I'm going to try to swap the fuel pump tomorrow. If not that then I think the spring in my FPR is bad?

Also I uploaded the stock k20a2 map... Doesn't fix anything.
 

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1 - You don't want to mount the fpr directly on the rail like that. Its heavy and engine vibrations are likely to damage the connection on the rail, or regulator. Best case, you are left stranded, worse case, you have a fire.

2 - Shorten that brake booster vacuum line from the IM to booster. run it back directly over the motor to the booster.

As for the fuel pressure. I seriously doubt its the fuel pump since you are seeing very high pressure. I would check for an obstruction somewhere like the return line on the bottom of the regulator, or possibly something gummed up on the 1/8th npt port for the gauge.

What size fuel lines are you using?

If you crank the car, can you hear all of your injectors clicking/firing? Put the tip of a screwdriver on the injector and put the handle to your ear to listen like a stethoscope (sp?).

The A/F sensor code sounds like it is either bad, or wired incorrectly.
 
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