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Hi my name is Terrance im new to this forum, but not so new to Kseries motors, but i am new to the transmissions when it comes to building them properly and reliably. I usually run a stock trans but with syncro tech syncros. I'm on my second k24 swap , spun a bearing so i just started over with a new/used jdm k24 with 57kmiles. I got Wiseco pistons and Manley rods, C.S.S block just got back from New Hampshire and many more goodies, the plan is to make 500 to 600hp, but i know the trans plays a big part in the role

what do i need to make my infamous 1st and 2nd gear not go to shit , and what can i do to make smoother transitions ect.

thank you for any advice
 

Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Hi my name is Terrance im new to this forum, but not so new to Kseries motors, but i am new to the transmissions when it comes to building them properly and reliably. I usually run a stock trans but with syncro tech syncros. I'm on my second k24 swap , spun a bearing so i just started over with a new/used jdm k24 with 57kmiles. I got Wiseco pistons and Manley rods, C.S.S block just got back from New Hampshire and many more goodies, the plan is to make 500 to 600hp, but i know the trans plays a big part in the role

what do i need to make my infamous 1st and 2nd gear not go to shit , and what can i do to make smoother transitions ect.

thank you for any advice
Hello Terrance, welcome to K20a.org!

Yes on that torque level you will see the stock transmission gear wheels will be overloaded and likely brake when shifted harder. Also the clutch will not stand the torque of more than 450 wftlb's you need for your power goal. Clutch stands about 260 ftlbs at flywheel, 4th gear began to make teeth problems above 200 ftlb at flywheel. A very nice way to solve this would be adapting a modified DQ250 from VW, which is a double clutch gearbox system. My friend is building a hard and software kit for that for the K-series and other engine bases. 7 gears and 40 ms shifting time without torque fall off. Very appealing 馃槑.

To keep things more affordable and at less time effort you can swap the clutch and the 1st to 4th gear with parts from the aftermarket. We have many threads on that here:
And of course you can find more on it on several further pages here.

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello Terrance, welcome to K20a.org!

Yes on that torque level you will see the stock transmission gear wheels will be overloaded and likely brake when shifted harder. Also the clutch will not stand the torque of more than 450 wftlb's you need for your power goal. Clutch stands about 260 ftlbs at flywheel, 4th gear began to make teeth problems above 200 ftlb at flywheel. A very nice way to solve this would be adapting a modified DQ250 from VW, which is a double clutch gearbox system. My friend is building a hard and software kit for that for the K-series and other engine bases. 7 gears and 40 ms shifting time without torque fall off. Very appealing 馃槑.

To keep things more affordable and at less time effort you can swap the clutch and the 1st to 4th gear with parts from the aftermarket. We have many threads on that here:
And of course you can find more on it on several further pages here.

Markus

wow thanks for the speedy response! i want to do it right this time so i dont see issues down the road
 

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2006 Rallye Red Element
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If you decide you want a dog box gearset make sure to take the time to know how to use it! You can totally drive it on the street, but you gotta know how. I see this pop up a lot in discussions about gears at least.
 
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