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I’m putting a K24Z3 in my NB Miata; it’s intended sole use is 1/4 mile drag racing. I’m sure a lot of people know of KMiata, but for anyone not up to date with Miatas I’m using their E46 ZF 6-speed kit in combination with their new K24Z3 swap kit. I want to use a Precision 6266 (possibly 64/6766?) to make around 6-700hp at the tire. KMiata also sells the V8Roadsters Getrag rear kit, but I’ll be fabricating a custom 4-link solid 8.8 rear.

I’m wondering what all is really necessary to make that much power without anything breaking for at least a few racing hours; I’m pretty new to the K series engines, coming from building a Mazda BP.

I’m pretty sure I need pistons, rods, head studs at least, I’ve read stock sleeves will apparently handle that much power? Other than that I’m not really sure, I had to use a billet oil pump, ATI damper, LS ignition coils, cams, head and main studs etc. for a BP to make that much power.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also I will be using a MaxxECU Race with my own custom wiring harness, fueling will be through a twin pump surge tank setup, W/A intercooling, etc. 8.5 second NHRA/IHRA 10-point chromoly cage, E46 trans, Ford 8.8 rear. With that much power I figure it can definitely run low 9s possibly high 8s, since it is roughly 2,000lbs with how much weight I’ve removed.

This is more of question strictly adhering to the engine and what it needs to hold that power
 

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i‘d sleeve it. This give you the extra headroom in strength. Won‘t be too long before you give it a few more PSI to scratch the 800-900HP range. So do it right from the beginning.
 

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i‘d sleeve it. This give you the extra headroom in strength. Won‘t be too long before you give it a few more PSI to scratch the 800-900HP range. So do it right from the beginning.
I'll have to get a quote from the machine shop on how much sleeve installation would be. I paid about $800 in labor for my BP but it's a closed deck block so I wasn't worried about the block strength. How much power could I safely make with the stock sleeves (assuming the pistons, rods, etc are up to par)?

Edit: Also, what is the difference between sleeving and CSS?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So far this is what I'm thinking the engine will need:

CSS or sleeves (leaning towards CSS)
Race bearings
Springs and titanium retainers? (not sure how much boost/RPM the stock springs can handle)
Rods
Pistons? (also not sure how much the stock pistons can handle, I will be using E85/E98 only)
New rings
Ported oil pump

Again I want to use a 6266, rev to maybe 8,500rpm at however much boost it takes to make around 700hp.

The main point of me using a K24 instead of the built BP I have is so I have less money invested in the engine while still making the same/more power. That way if something does break, it'll be cheaper to replace it, contrary to my $5,000 built Mazda engine.
 

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...How much power could I safely make with the stock sleeves (assuming the pistons, rods, etc are up to par)?
It's not power, it's boost, which will cause issues with the stock Alu/Steel liners. Main primary issue is elastic blow up during working cycle, as well as the bigger piston side forces, which will bring the liner into to an oscillation. The later can be reduced a bit by the deck-liner-block-support. Assuming the drivetrain losses are around 18 % you need about 800 hp at the flywheel, which is almost 26 [email protected] rpm
boost, which is too much for my feeling for stock liners, even it is only a simple drag engine of low milage and durability. Wrong step during tuning, especially knock can easily pump up the stock liner and increase blowby which heats the piston...seizure and melted areas are the consequence. Keep it safe and sleeve it
 

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If you put in liners it would probably be prudent to use some sort of deck support (CSS as it seems to be referred to here). Darton does some liners for example they market as "MID" or Modular Integrated Deck. The stock honda block uses floating liners which at high power levels can be pushed around causing fretting and eventually failure of the head gasket. High revs or high boost would benefit from a top deck that supports the location of the top of the liners.

Centrifugally cast iron liners will have a bit lower heat transfer but much higher hoop strength than thin wall factory liners to resist deforming from the pressures in the cylinder under boosted conditions.
 

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Wrong step during tuning, especially knock can easily pump up the stock liner and increase blowby which heats the piston...seizure and melted areas are the consequence. Keep it safe and sleeve it
The conversion factor for gasoline from pounds per hour to cc per min is 10.5
 
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