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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took out my k24a2 ek tonight for the first time on the road. The motor I have has 0-9 miles on it, so is there a recommended break in period before i get on it at all? I didn't really put it down to see what it could do at all for that reason, as well as im throwing a primary o2 cel (i have one with a blue sleeve and i bought it from someone who i thought was a fairly reputable person on here...anyone know if this actually is the semi wideband?)

Last question...i am also getting a code on the kpro for IAT. What is this? where is it? How do i fix it? Thanks!
 

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goldywang said:
I took out my k24a2 ek tonight for the first time on the road. The motor I have has 0-9 miles on it, so is there a recommended break in period before i get on it at all? I didn't really put it down to see what it could do at all for that reason, as well as im throwing a primary o2 cel (i have one with a blue sleeve and i bought it from someone who i thought was a fairly reputable person on here...anyone know if this actually is the semi wideband?)

Last question...i am also getting a code on the kpro for IAT. What is this? where is it? How do i fix it? Thanks!
IAT= Intake Air Temperture. Sensor should be on the intake pipe right before the throttle body.

Tim
 

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well there is always the suggested break in tim for newly built/new cars of 2,000 miles...i would suggest this break in period b/c i feel better to be safe then sorry, but some ppl say 500 miles, its what ever you prefer i have heard some ppl with problems that happend that could have been cause of not allowing their car to break in but meh just my 2 cents bro
 

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congrats bro....now how about a list of all parts purchased for the swap for other ek owners doing the exact swap..like myself..n when I say every I mean every part bought.....thanks in advance...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
xcell said:
IAT= Intake Air Temperture. Sensor should be on the intake pipe right before the throttle body.

Tim
so with an aftermarket intake...am i supposed to mount this sensor on the intake pipe then? where do i get the sensor? do i need a k series or can i use a d/b series, and if so, how do i wire it. sorry for all the questions...i just need clarification on this and i was never aware of this aspect of the swap.

lifendet-i will see if i can get a list together today at work, if i can still remember everything.
 

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from hondata

don't agree with that. Do a search for the 'motoman' method of break in. I run my engines at high load / lowish rpm to break them in, and get a perfect ring seal very quickly (0.25 % leakdown is typical).

If you idle the engine a lot from new, then never put it under load, the bores will lose their roughness before the rings lap in. Once that has heppened the rings will never bed in. Then the engine will not make power and will burn oil. The Honda dealers both in the US and the UK have had to replace engines under warranty for burning oil because the engines were broken in too gently. In some cases (mainly in the UK) people lost VTEC due to lack of oil before the first service. The upside is that my source of engines is oil burning warranty replacement short blocks from Acura in the US. The engines are all perfect except the bores are glazed and the piston is clogged with carbon from the oil. A quick hone and they are good as new.
 

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This is how you do it

Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process
 

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For the sensor... all you need is this part, new from acura

37880-PLC-004 $25-$35 I believe

You engine harness should have a plug for it. Mine does... MY tsx motor came with that back plasticn air filter pipe that had one on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so then do i mount it on the intake tube somehow?

btw thanks for the instructions for breakin
 

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Nikos,

What happens when you have a new motor that needs to break in, BUT you also need to break in your new clutch.

Your method posted above wouldn't be the best for a clutch.

What should I do?
 

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u have two option for the sensor....you could either drill a hole big enough to wedge the sensor in the intake or simply wrap the wire somewhere on ur chassis or motor and let it dangle...u be the judge of what looks more professional
 

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After only 50 miles on my brand spankin' new 00' ITR, I dogged the shit out of it. I was young and thought I was dumb because of everyone telling me that I needed to break the engine in slowly. However, 3 years later, surviving 2 thefts and 80,000 miles, the car still ran 14.7's when I sold it. After 10,000 more miles on the car w/ the new owner, the car was completely high-jacked and never to be found. I'm sure that engine is still running strong in one of those thieves' hatches...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
zjigg1k said:
u have two option for the sensor....you could either drill a hole big enough to wedge the sensor in the intake or simply wrap the wire somewhere on ur chassis or motor and let it dangle...u be the judge of what looks more professional
it it just dangles it will just be reading the air temp around my motor then, it will get rid of the cel but is it important for that sensor to actually be reading the intake air temp? chamelon on here said his vtc didnt work because he didnt have that sensor hooked up. If it doesnt matter then im not going to wedge it in my intake because that will look like shit...i would rather just hide it somewhere dangling.
 

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well honestly...I have mine dangling at the moment because I recently changed my intake and my intake does not not have a hole unlike my previous one and I have not seen or experienced a difference with the sensor dangling but I prefer to spend that extra time to make a whole and place the sensor there to be on the safe side...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Karcepts said:
After only 50 miles on my brand spankin' new 00' ITR, I dogged the shit out of it. I was young and thought I was dumb because of everyone telling me that I needed to break the engine in slowly. However, 3 years later, surviving 2 thefts and 80,000 miles, the car still ran 14.7's when I sold it. After 10,000 more miles on the car w/ the new owner, the car was completely high-jacked and never to be found. I'm sure that engine is still running strong in one of those thieves' hatches...
well, maybe i will beat it a bit tonight after i get more than the 13 miles i put on it last night.
 

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I want a vid...
 

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without that sensor you having that cel your cal will run with VTC "OFF"
that means its gonna feel like a bseries. when you clear the cel full VTC is working and then you will feel the pooowwaa! btw you want it to read intake temps so the ecu can make calculations and shit, but if you have to you can leave it dangling around your intake or wherever. the primary o2 code might just give you a limp mode as well, i wouldnt suggest you turn it off because you def need to know first where your a/f figures are unless ur motor is close to one of the calibrations then u can get on it but def get that o2 fixed asap.

btw u can disable o2 in kpro parameters.
 
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