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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=253855&page=2 the problme is on page 2

im through modding after this crap.


just when i thought we finally had a perfect install. we learn we are 180 degrees out of whack

i didnt know the motor hits tdc twice per rev.

anyone else ever have this happen to them
 

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Problems like these are expected when you are starting to work on your car etc..

A while back, derek from hondata posted this over here.. Read it and tell me if that would have helped you

He wrote:"
If you align the special links with the marks on the cams, then turn the engine over, the marks will not align every time cylinder #1 is at TDC. You need to keep turning the engine until the bottom link is on the mark on the crank sprocket, which you can't see unless you remove the front cover.

Here's what to do when changing cams if you to be 100% sure you have the cam timing correct:

1. Turn the engine over by hand until the special links are aligned to the marks on the cams. This takes anywhere from 1 to 100 engine revolutions. After a while you can see a pattern of the links moving, which I think was every 6 or 8 engine revolutions. Take out the spark plugs to make it easier. Put the engine to TDC using a rod on cylinder #1, and check that the marks on the cam sprockets all line up. Take a photo with a digital camera for reference.
2. Remove the steel cover over the tensioner.
3. Put some pressure on the chain guide so that the little cam on the tensioner moves so that the holes line up, then put a pin in the tensioner to lock it. I use a filed down allen as a pin.
4. Lock wire the front of the timing chain making sure that you can still remove the cam sprocket. I use safety wire wrapped around the chain and chain guide.
5. Use something to tension the back of the timing chain and remove the tensioner (I use welding wire). The goal is not to let the chain slip on the crank sprocket.
6. Lock wire the chain so that it cannot slip down, while allowing the chain guide to pivot to give some slack in the chain over the cam sprokets. This is the most critical part. Use multiple pieces of wire.
7. Remove the cam caps and remove the cams. You will need to manipulate one cam at a time a lot, but they will come up.
8. Swap cams or whatever you're going to do. Don't forget to put the correct sensor wheel on the correct cam (they are marked IN or EX).
9. Put the cams back in, install the cam caps, put the chain over the cam sprockets so that the special link matches the marks. Take care not to turn the engine over nor move the chain.
10. Take up tension on the chain with the rear guide and install the tensioner. Remove the pin to release the tensioner.
11. Check that the marks on the cam sprockets line up horizonally. Refer to photo if necessary.
12. Remember to set valve lash (between the valve and rocker, not the roller and cam!).
13. Check everything looks OK, and you're done.

I know the whole process of keeping the chain on the crank sprocket is a pain, but if you do it this way then you can be almost 100% sure you have the correct cam timing.

If the chain does come off the crank sprocket, then all is not lost. Keep going and install the cams so that the horizontal marks line up. Once done give the engine a couple of turns, find TDC using a rod on the piston, and then check the marks on the cam sprockets look good. Use a ruler across them if there is any doubt.
 

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Thats ok, don't let that bother you, sure you gotta do it all over again, but at least you learned from it.

About a month ago i had to rebuild my fzr 600r. I sent the head out to get the valves recut because the intake valves were leaking and it needed new rings anyway. Well...When i got it all back together, you have to re-adjust the valves, ITs Dohc and inorder to adjust them you have to put shims in it.

To make a long story short, i had to put those cams in and out aligning them everytime about 6 times. ITs a pain in the ass. After the first 3 or 4 times you start to get the hang of it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well after talkin with a guy who worked at the honda asembly plant he said that if it was 180 out the car wouldnt run when we reinstalled the cams we followed it by the helms to a T

we took the timing chain cover off. the tensioner out and the chain off.

we set the motor to tdc lined the bottom colored link on its mark and the top colored links on thier marks. i then held the guide arms in place while the other guy installed the tensioner. after that we checked tdc about 15 times.

we brougt another guy in checked it. hand cranked it about 100 revs. before putting the timing chain cover back on ( cuz the cover is a bitch) put everything back on started it and let it idle. it was quiet so we let it set for about 6 min we took it out drove slow and normal nothing over 3500 got on it one time to 8500 it immedialty stalled at the stop sign and threw the p0341 code

our first code earlier in the day was p0011 timing was off. so we took it to a shop and it was about a tooth or 2 off so that is when we pulled the cams out to re install them from scratch and this leads me to where we are at now.

i cleared the code and started the car this morning it sat idle for about 3 min and the cel came on again.

as far as the post that niko's made. im kinda lost with it im lost with everything. we have the motor at tdc and all the links are matched up i really dont wanna spend 800 bux at a shop even my guys who have done this 100 times over are lost 1 is blaming engine management cuz i got 2 bent pins on the ecu when it came back from hondata

i keep reading the hondata instructions with the cams and it loses me
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it did run fine yesterday mornign i wa gonna go to get it dynoed when i threw a cel so i checked the cel and i got p0011 which meant timing was off. so i called the guys that did it and we pulled everything to check tdc again. it was off by 2 teeth. so we said screw it we are gonna do it the right way the last time cuz we got sick of trying to bungie the chain up to keep tension on it

so we took the timing chain cover off. the tensioner out and the chain off.

we set the motor to tdc lined the bottom colored link on its mark and the top colored links on thier marks. i then held the guide arms in place while the other guy installed the tensioner. after that we checked tdc about 15 times.

we brougt another guy in checked it. hand cranked it about 100 revs. before putting the timing chain cover back on ( cuz the cover is a bitch) put everything back on started it and let it idle. it was quiet so we let it set for about 6 min we took it out drove slow and normal nothing over 3500 got on it one time to 8500 it immedialty stalled at the stop sign and threw the p0341 code

this leads me to where we are at now.

i cleared the code and started the car this morning it sat idle for about 3 min and the cel came on again. p0341 so im lost
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
fearless_dsm said:
What pins on which plugs at the ecu are(were) bent?

If the cams are only a tooth off,the engine should still run decent.

Maybe the tensioner is bad?

on the first plug if you are looking at the ecu from left to right there are 3 ports . on the first port far left on the bottom row there were 2 pins next to each other at the end were bent down woard that i had to carefully straighten back up. no none of them cracked or broke cuz i checked again
 

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The tdc/cam position sensor pins are 25 and 26 on the "A" plug(far left slot)..on the bottom row, but theyre in the center.Maybe check to make sure those pins are completely straight..if one is bent or touching the other,the ecu could get mixed signals and think its 180 off.
Thats all I can really think of.Hope it helps.
 
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