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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, here are the pics of my TSX DC Sports header, I cutoff the collector and modified a 2.5" pipe and had it welded back up. The 2" collector it came with just looked too restictive. Here are the pics from start to finish.






 

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how much power do you guys think we are losing since we are using the tsx dc headers? Obviously the flange opening to the header piping is smaller than the type-s manifold. what exhaust piping size are you guys running?
 

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So you are negating the flex pipe? Might excessive exhaust shake leading to rattling and maybe even cracking of the downpipe. Just a thought i have seen it happen.

later bro
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Uneek4L said:
So you are negating the flex pipe? Might excessive exhaust shake leading to rattling and maybe even cracking of the downpipe. Just a thought i have seen it happen.

later bro
Its not necessary, look at all the headers that are made for the K20 swap, none of them have a flex pipe. The engine doesn't move that much because of the stiff mounts, so the exhaust doesn't flex as much.
 

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i'll post pictures tonight when i get home.... it actually works perfectly fine, no cracking or anything.... With a stock block k20a2 motor and ITB's, i am making 243 Wheel Horsepower ! so as you can see, it can still flow pretty good for the price... im sure i can get another extra 7-8 hp throughout the power band if i got a more expensive header, but then again, i am going turbo soon, so no need to buy another header !!!! will post pics up later. !
 

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Yes I agree but I was just mentioning it because overtime it could happen. Not saying right away. Looks clean though bro good sh*t.


C1V1C said:
Its not necessary, look at all the headers that are made for the K20 swap, none of them have a flex pipe. The engine doesn't move that much because of the stiff mounts, so the exhaust doesn't flex as much.
 

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Did you think about shortening the overall height, or are you using the K24 block?

I wish I knew how to weld, this is exactly what I'd do, plus take 1.5" - 2" off the height.

Has anyone thought to use 2" piping for each primary, 2.5" for the collector, and 2.5" - 3" for the "cat-back". I know this is large and power negating for 4 small displacement motors, but couldn't it be tuned using a butterfly valve, or by stacking washers (a la Supertrapps).

Hell, I think the domestic guys are using electronic controlled valves to control back pressure on their large diameter exhausts. Thoughts?
 

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My other car is a S2000
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Actually what I meant by "shortening" it was in regards to height once it's mounted onto the motor. In relation to road clearance, does the bend to the collector sit higher now?

For my DC Sports TSX header, I think I'd like to try what you've done (2.5" collector pipe), AND cut about 1.5" - 2" of height out around the primary-secondary flange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I might shorten the height like you said, have to wait till everything is installed and see how it sits first.
The mod I did was very easy, cost me about $60 CAN, O2 bung and flang was $20, welding $35, $5 for the pipe.

BTW-I'll also be running a full 2.5 exhaust
 

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i thought about cutting the flange out of mine that would make it one pice and shorten it (in hight) almost an inch. i thought of doing that same collector mod as soon as i took it out of the box.
 
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