a couple years back, alot a people were jumpin on the boosted h22 in a civic bandwagon and it seemed that didn't last long because of the amount of torque the h22 put out. i read about guys being able to spin their tires damn near anywhere on the track. people went back to the b18 which gave good horsepower but not as much torque. with a boosted k24, shouldn't that be even more torque than a h22, and wouldn't that be even more tough to control down the track?
traction issues
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Yes and yes.
How much power are you looking at making? If it's a full race car with slicks and wheelie bars its one thing, a street car is different. And it depends on what kind of boost you're talking about. Like 7-10 psi on the street would probably be fine with relatively sticky tires, but a full race motor built for 20 psi or more is a different story.
For reference, boosted street hondas with 250-350 hp often lose street races to all-motor cars with 190-230 hp because the turbo car won't hook, even on drag radials.
How much power are you looking at making? If it's a full race car with slicks and wheelie bars its one thing, a street car is different. And it depends on what kind of boost you're talking about. Like 7-10 psi on the street would probably be fine with relatively sticky tires, but a full race motor built for 20 psi or more is a different story.
For reference, boosted street hondas with 250-350 hp often lose street races to all-motor cars with 190-230 hp because the turbo car won't hook, even on drag radials.
actually i was referring to drag cars, but i guess when the h22 swap became popular using wheelie bars was on the scene yet so guys had traction problems. i even saw a h22 destroked to a 2.0L to help in the torque department. i guess the beginnig of the use of wheelie bars and the advances in suspension geometry made a huge difference. i guess i can,t see anything but all motor for a k series swap for a street car
Traction is deffinately an issue with a turbo k20a2. Right now on our car we have no traction on wot runs on the street till 4th gear. We had to learn how to modulate the throttle alot to get it to hook up well. Next on the list for our car is better suspension and drag radials.
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You seem like a man of knowledge, I have a question about traction on the street , I’m planning on putting a turbo k20a2 onto my 95 hatch but I’m not sure how much I should push the car due to traction , At first I was thinking of pushing the car around 500hp but traction is what I’ll be lacking , but I was planning on going awd in the near future which will solve somewhat of that traction problem, but for the the meantime I’m using fwd but that fwd I Will def have traction problems around that hp so I was thinking maybe pushing the car around 300 but if there’s a way to fix that traction problem around 500hp what would it be ?
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909edge was banned here around 2007. He won't reply.
Traction can be regained by your foot management 😉 or by a proper tune and traction control system and setup:
- boost by gear in the basic version
- traction control based on rotation speed sensor (originally used for ABS) which feeds the ECU traction control. The latter uses fuel and ignition timing as well as boost level to control power to the wheels with respect to slip speed.
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The thing is , i bought an already gutted 95 hatch & putting those abs sensors would be kind of a pain since I will most likely have to drill some holes & I basically can’t mess up the location or the sensors won’t work so yeah it’s kind of a 50/50 if I wanna do that just for traction control
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Without tyre speed information you have only boost by gear as option, which is only a pilot control, nothing in closed loop. Doesn't help for a boosted application when road conditions are different. I would recommend to take the challenge. Check out the original setup on e.g. a EP3 and customize your own. That's no Hulk work, just a tyre speed sensor installation.
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I have a random question, is there a difference between k20a2 & z1 or are they about the same ?
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Yeap, the K20Z1 differs in following:
- Fuel injection is RBB
- ECU
- Camshafts are from K20A (JDM)
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So would you pref
So would you prefer one than the other or would you go with either or
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K20Z1
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