[polyglot]

Dumb questions time...

Hondata sells their flashpro for the K24Z3 but they really don't say much about what you can do with it. I mean, sure, basic adjustments to the fuel and timing maps, but how far? I see they also sell a "4 bar MAP sensor", which has... implications that they don't quite come out and confirm on their website.

There seems to be no KPro for the K24Z3. Is that because it's not necessary given the capabilities of the flashpro? Or because Hondata just doesn't support that level of tuning on the Z3?

Is a flashpro sufficient* for putting a turbocharger on a K24Z3? If not, what else do I need in terms of ECU changes? (I would like to avoid the cost of buying a whole-ass Haltech Elite).



* not including supporting gear like injectors, fuel rail, regulator, etc. Question pertains to ECU needs only.

 

[LotusElise]

Hondata sells their flashpro for the K24Z3 but they really...

All Z-type engines are DBW TB engines, have a different ECU chip layout (flashable) and need FPro. FPro has at least the same capability as KPro, but some features in addition, which is based on the different capability of the basis Honda ECU.

Sure you can run a boosted engine with KPro and FPro. The 4 bar MAP sensor is a part they sell for this purpose as the stock MAP sensor is limited to around 9 psi of boost as it's limit is 1.7 bar absolut pressure. I am not the guy recommending the Hondata stuff, it comes with allot of cons compared to a race engine demand. For an DD car and most engine operators it is ok. Just in case you drove an well tuned race car you would know what you really want. If you never did it, you wont miss it.

not including supporting gear like injectors, fuel rail, regulator, etc. Question pertains to ECU needs only.

It supports boost by gear, different fuel pressures, different injectors, level'd redline approaches, launch setups and all that stuff, but it is no VE model, it is just a simple injector duration fuel calc. model, means if you change your injector, you might need to change your fuel maps too. But finally you can do a lot of turbo stuff.

 

[polyglot]

Excellent; thankyou.

Noting you're not in here recommending Hondata stuff - what (ECU stuff) would you hypothetically recommend for something that is a weekend windy-roads weapon and very-occasional track car? Not for serious competition because frankly I'm not that good a driver.

 

[LotusElise]

Noting you're not in here recommending Hondata stuff - what (ECU stuff) would you hypothetically recommend for something that is a weekend windy-roads weapon and very-occasional track car? Not for serious competition because frankly I'm not that good a driver.

The meaning of "I am not the guy recommending..." is, I've tuned on Emulators like Hondata, Doctronic and standalone like AEM Infinity, AEM Series 2, MoTec M1, Haltech Elite, MaxxECU, ECUMaster and some other stuff. I experienced their pros and cons and capabilities for different applications from a DD engine over 1/4 mile up to an circuit race car. Compared to e.g. an AEM Infinity the Hondata FPro is like comparing Lenovo Legion 7 Laptop with an IBM ThinkPad 345C. Both can do exact same job, e.g. solving complex equation C-code, or keeping the analogy calculate the fuel demand per stroke, but the differences are in the details: anti-knock strategy, transient fuel approach, protection modules and so on.

FPro is as good as the OEM ECU is, it just alters and extend some stuff for it. The stock Honda ECU is limited on many things, the software of FPro, like KPro too, still have a few buggs (e.g. IAT related fuel control) and not well programmed features (e.g. the autotune function), but it runs 100's or even 1000's of Honda engines without any major issue. So, even I am not the guy recommending it, it will work for your application and demand.

 

[polyglot]

thanks! I'm pretty sure it will suit my purposes then. While the Haltech Elite are really popular here in AU, it makes registration so very much easier if I can just point and say "factory ECU".

 

[LotusElise]

...it makes registration so very much easier if I can just point and say "factory ECU".

That's biggest plus point of Doctronic and Hondata, they appear as a stock ECU. If tuned correctly they do it also emission-wise.

 

[polyglot]

Another dumb question - given that I have a plastic R40 manifold, do I need to replace that (e.g. with an RBB) for forced induction? I had kind of assumed so, but google tells me that the RBB doesn't quite line up in terms of a couple of water ports and the size of the air ports, which probably means that the Skunk2 and its clones will probably have similar problems.

Has anyone adapted an RBB or a similar/compatible cast Al manifold to the K24Z3, or has anyone run a turbo on a Z3 with the R40 plastic manifold?


PS w00t my donor car arrived today. Statutory write-off from hail damage, low km, amazing condition, drives perfectly. It's really too good to part out but I'm pretty sure it can never be registered again.

 

[LotusElise]

given that I have a plastic R40 manifold, do I need to replace that (e.g. with an RBB) for forced induction

In another thread a member here reported that plastic IM was able to take up to 20 psi without any issues. Please search it and contact that member for confirmation.

PS w00t my donor car arrived today

Pictures

 

[polyglot]

Well that's good news. I did a bit of a search here but couldn't find anything about turbos on plastic or R40 manifolds. I guess I can try using it and if it blows out or melts then I'll replace it at that point. I'm aiming for about 300kW, which should be achievable with no more than 15psi. IATs gotta be lowish (massive intercooler) to prevent detonation with those 11:1 pistons, unless I go buy a thicker head gasket or something.

Different injector diameter though so that might be interesting buying bigger new ones, and I'm not sure yet about compatibility with aftermarket fuel rails for the FPR and recirc.

Here's the donor. It's a statutory writeoff (can not be legally registered again) due to - get this - hail damage. I do not f**king understand NSW Dept of Transport but it did result in me buying this perfect-condition (except for a few pin-dents on the top) 2012 CU2 Luxury Manual with 107,000km for AUD3250 plus transport costs. The engine, transmission, steering and probably cluster, uprights, brakes and wheels will be going into a variant of the http://www.midlana.com/ locost clubman that I'm about to start building; the rest will be parted out and sold.

A couple hours on the battery charger, top up of the oil and it starts+drives perfectly so it's been driven into the shed and is now awaiting its fate.