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Discussion Starter #1
Like the title says, I'm tired of seeing all the "what do I need for this" etc. posts and I really just hate saying "Search, you'll find answers." While the answers ARE out there they aren't 100% easy to find. I found them on the site, but I've also looked for a while.

This is what you want, THE K20/24 SWAP PARTS LIST. Items are also loosely categorized and are meant to be the cheapest possible way to complete the swap. Please keep in mind this may not be 100% accurate to what you want to accomplish but it's damn close! Here it is!

ENGINE/TRANNY (All gaskets/seals are considered "known to be needed" items)
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K-series engine(K24/K20)
K-series tranny(Type-R/RSX-S/RSX Base)
K-series engine harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series charging harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series Alternator(For Engine of Choice)
K-series Starter(For Engine of Choice)
K-series ECU(RSX PRB 02-04) Plus Hondata K-Pro(Or JDM K-series ECU)
CRV Passenger side engine mount(needed for non-CRV K24 swaps)
Header(R-crew/DC/SSR)
Clutch/Flywheel(RSX-S)
RSX Type-S Oxygen Sensor(Primary)
RSX Type-S Knock Sensor(Only if not using RSX-S engine, Or repin stock Knock sensor)
RSX Type-S Clutch Slave Cylinder
RSX Type-S Halfshaft
RSX BASE Axles(For EG only, Swap inner joints) Or...
RSX-S Axles w/ B-series Outers(For EG again, Also rec. swapping inner joints)
RSX Type-S Throttle Body(Or Accord throttle body, depending on engine/intake)
RSX-S Intake Manifold(Or RBC/TSX/Accord)
Karcepts Throttle Body Adapter(only if using RBC)
Engine Mounts(Hybrid/Avid/Hasport)
Harness Conversion(Hybrid/Hasport/Sparkks)
Clutch Line(Hybrid Racing)

RADIATOR/COOLING (This is for using stock radiator)
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Hasport Billet Hose Adapter(For Stock B/D series Fan switch/coolant temp sensor)
Perma-Cool PRM-19120 11"x10" Fan
TOP Rad Hose - RSX Type-S Top Hose(for EK/EG)
BOTTOM Rad Hose - 99-00 Civic Si Top Hose(for EK/EG)

SHIFTER PARTS
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Karcepts Shifter mounting kit
RSX Type-S Shifter Box
RSX-S 02-04 Shifter Cables
Shift Parts to Connect Cables (OEM, easy)

EXHAUST PARTS (Must be custom welded, Can substitute for 2.5")
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Kteller 3" Stainless Piping
3" in/out Muffler
Catalytic Converter if you choose to use one.

FUEL SYSTEM PARTS (Using stock fuel rail, minimum costs)
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(www.summitracing.com)
EAR-991945ERL - Converts OEM fuel filter to -6 AN fitting
EAR-165056ERL - Converts OEM fuel rail to -6 AN fitting
RUS-610020 x 4 - Straight -6 AN Hose couplers
SUM-220166N x 3 - Straight cut -6 AN to -6 An hose, Ports on FPR.
RUS-610160 - 90 Degree -6 AN Coupler from fuel filter to FPR.
RUS-632070 - 10 feet -6 AN Hose
AEI-13109 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Walbro 190/255lph Fuel Pump(It's cheap, and worth it - www.hybrid-performance.com)

IF REMOVING POWER STEERING(with no A/C)
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EP3 Idler pulley/bracket
Manual Steering rack, Or Loop P/S rack
K24 = 52" Serpentine Belt(works perfectly on mine)
K20 = 50.5" Serpentine Belt

IF KEEPING POWER STEERING (No A/C - With a current P/S rack)
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K20 PS Pump
Jackson Racing Pulley - P/N: 052-154 (This will clear an EG hood with K20 swap, no hole...only cutting.)
52" Serpentine Belt(only for K20 - K24 = Unknown?)
02-04 RSX High pressure hose
3/8" I.D. hose
Oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries P/N:1007 (for P/S fluid return line)

Fluid NEEDS:
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POWER STEERING FLUID - 2 Bottles
DOT3 Brake fluid - 2 Bottles
Coolant 50/50 Mix - 2 Bottles(3 to be safe/cover leaking or spillage)
MTF - 3 Bottles
OIL - 6 Quarts

RANDOM HOSES (Not totaly acurate for ALL swap configurations, keep in mind O.D. and I.D. measurements)
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10' 3/16" I.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
10' 1/4" I.D. Hose
10' 3/8" I.D. Hose
5' 3/4" O.D. Hose
5' 1" O.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)

MISC BOLTS/Parts (This is mainly used if you buy Engine/Trans apart from one another)
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90034-P10-A01 X 6 clutch bolts
90011-PNA-B00 x 8 flywheel bolts
22103-PNA-003 pilot bearing
95701-12060-08 x4 tranny bolts
95701-12085-08 x 2 starter bolts
90027-PND-A00 starter bolt long
90025-PNA-000 bolt
95701-08055-08 x 2
90008-PNA-000 x 2 alternator bolts
90008-PPA-000 bolt
21351-PNB-000 cover for tranny to connect k24a with k20a2 type s tranny(only K24)
95701-06012-08 x 3 bolts


MAIN SITES TO USE:
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/
http://www.thehondapartsstore.com/
http://www.acuraparts247.com/
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp
http://www.summitracing.com
http://www.jhpusa.com
http://www.hasport.com
http://www.hybrid-racing.com/
http://www.karcepts.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/ (cheap hard to find OEM parts)
http://www.rcrewracing.com
http://www.sixsigmaracing.com/home.htm
http://www.motors.ebay.com/ (you can save a lot if you look for deals)

This should be absoloutley EVERYTHING you need to complete a K20/24 swap, Minor variances will be there as this list is meant for an EG only because It's what I own :silly: However it should be 95% of what you need for EK/DC2 aswell.

That should be it, Correct me if you see something wrong. Hopefully this stops all the "Zomg what do I needz" posts...
 

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STICKY ICKY ICKY Very well put my friend. but what do I need for a k20/24 swap on a EP? JK!! We need more people like you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
More people like me? I'm scared now... :silly:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not a problem! Glad I could help :)
 

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Sweeeeeet, you saved my life with listing those bolts for the trans and starter!!

Excellent work putting that list together, I am sure it will help a lot of people.

- Dan
 

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crv mount for k 24
 

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Discussion Starter #12
seek167 said:
crv mount for k 24
Ah, see...I'm using a CRV engine so I forgot others would need that. Added, Thanks.

chameleon said:
about time! good job froth! make sure you update the thread with info as it comes in. and always remember you have to list everything dummy proof..

ps .. sticky'd!
Yeah, Dummy proofing is always good:silly:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If your transmission comes with one you dont, if it doesn't come with one then there's no way to activate the clutch. It's something you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I wasn't listing them all, just the most popular ones people use for swaps. Thank you for the suggestion though, I'm glad people are being scrutinous with this as it helps make sure it's as close to perfect as possible :)
 

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Froth said:
IF REMOVING POWER STEERING(with no A/C)
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EP3 Idler pulley/bracket
Manual Steering rack, Or Loop P/S rack
K24 = 52" Serpentine Belt(works perfectly on mine)
K20 = 50.5" Serpentine Belt
I'm a little confused about this. Can you explain?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Basically, you're taking your current power steering lines and looping them together so they run back into the rack. This keeps debris and crap from getting in the rack, keeps it lubed and basically turns it into a Manual rack. You can also simply remove all the lines and plug the holes, I know a few people who have just removed the lines leaving the holes open and had zero issues for 2+ years with the rack. All depends on how you feel/your tastes.
 

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Awesome, thank you. And for the fuel set you listed, the lines, fittings, regulator, etc., I priced it all together at Summit as you had listed and it came out to around $250 without the Walbro pump. Just a figure for a complete fuel setup if anyone wanted to know. Bout the cheapest way out :up:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The Walbro pump is not an absoloute need, but I'm doing it as a precaution and would reccomend it to everyone else.
 
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