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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDIT: 09/28/2011

Big changes here guys and I don't even know why I am putting it down... Well here goes.

Suspension 2.0

AMR Engineering Coilovers 550fr/650rr (Received on September 15th 2011)
King Motorsports Rear Camber Kit (Bought Used for $75.00...What!)
'Special' Front Camber Kit (Coming Soon)
New Hardened Rubber Bushings (Looking at Mugen for the LCA's and Compensator Bushings... Found no real reason to change from stock)
Full-Race Prostreet Traction Bar (Coming Soon)
15x8 949Racing 6ul's (Further Away)

Right now I am simply sitting on some Konig Heliums 15x6.5 w/ Kumho Ecsta AST Tires (My tires on my 13's were showing metal so decided to pick up some used rims and tires)

I have decided not to look into any anti-sway bars yet I now understand my 'skills' as a driver are not up there so I've decided to get pieces which can help in the tunability of the suspension and be better suited to grow as I grow in skill level.

As I better understand and get better accustomed to the differences of Understeer-Neutral-Oversteer, I will than explore the options of PROPER Sway Bar Sizes for front and rear. Most likely to be ASR Rear and Front SI. But only time will tell.

My engine is still the gas sipping 70hp vehicle so not much to say for power but it will just be a learning experience.

My hope is to be able to gather most of the parts before the end of november this year.

Of Course I will be having Darin and Chris Nishimura Handling the well... Handling portion of it all over at their shop West End Alignment. They will be Installing all the parts aligning and corner balancing the car... Best believe the corner balanced 70hp eg civic will be creeping up... very slowly...but surely.

For those who dont know about West End Alignment here is an article from honda-tuning magazine 1990 Honda Civic Si - Function Is Back
 

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i would not get 195-50-15 tires. i have some nitto's now and you wont get traction. i also have 205-50-15's and they are better. even 215-50-15's would be good.195's are too small.
 

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I have to agree ^^^^
With such a nice set-up it would compliment your build with a wider footprint. Very nice! :up::up:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i would not get 195-50-15 tires. i have some nitto's now and you wont get traction. i also have 205-50-15's and they are better. even 215-50-15's would be good.195's are too small.
I have to agree ^^^^
With such a nice set-up it would compliment your build with a wider footprint. Very nice! :up::up:
In regards to the tires they had came highly recommended by "Nsxtasy" on HT. He explained to me that the difference between 205 and 195 was negligible. His knowledge on the subject was pretty well explained. I would shoot him a question if you believe him wrong.

Oh and remember this is still a daily driver so I want tires that last and the Yokohama S. Drives have long life in em.
 

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I would say Not lower than 1.5" from factory & wider tires specially up front. Try to find a tire you like but go with lowest profile 45 or 40.

Integra rack & pinion.
 

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im going to tell you right now, flat out, that nsxtacy is a 55-60 year old self-proclaimed "know it all", in addition to being an asshole, whom i dont think even owns an FF honda anyway. he uses honda-tech to pontificate his OPINION as FACT and often deletes the posts of knowledgable members who disagree, which is why you no longer see anyone knowledgable in the tire section of honda-tech. did you notice how its all questions, and the only answers have "nsxtacy" next to them?

now that we have that out of the way, hankook makes a 225-45-15 RS3. it has the same roll out and tire height as a 205-50-15 and obviously a full 20mm more rubber.

its a bad ass tire and will go on anything from 6.5-8 inches wide. feast your eyes on this.





if you want to know what is written on the inside of your door jamb for tire selection, ask nsxtacy. if you want to know what will keep your car from shooting into the ditch, ask someone with a K series FF civic.
 

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I would say Not lower than 1.5" from factory & wider tires specially up front. Try to find a tire you like but go with lowest profile 45 or 40.

Integra rack & pinion.
if the car is serious, then spring rate is what will determine ride height. you can remove the top of the fender liner and leave the 2 rear clips, plus the front piece and youll keep the dirt out of your jambs and headlights.

that 225 on a +38 to +40 minimum offset rim at 2.0 degrees of camber will clear a civic fender, without rolling (just fold up the fenderliner tab up top) with no problem.

also, i would reccomend hard rubber in the LCAs unless you dont mind the noise of sphericals. they are a little loud.
 

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dam them tires are nice, and i just got a new set of neo gens.:mad:
 

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good to know the 225/45 will fit easy, i always have rubbage problems.
 

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if the car is serious, then spring rate is what will determine ride height. you can remove the top of the fender liner and leave the 2 rear clips, plus the front piece and youll keep the dirt out of your jambs and headlights.

that 225 on a +38 to +40 minimum offset rim at 2.0 degrees of camber will clear a civic fender, without rolling (just fold up the fenderliner tab up top) with no problem.

also, i would reccomend hard rubber in the LCAs unless you dont mind the noise of sphericals. they are a little loud.
In my case I'm running R888 225/45/15 all around on 6ULs 15X8 +36mm camber-2.3 front -1.5 rear. just rolled fenders. they clear but I think I'm gonna need to cut the fenders cause going 6ul 15x9 + ±3mm spacer up front due to big brakes. I wished b18c5 was still doing the wide oem look fiberglass fenders :( or I'm gonna need to learn FG.

I don't know how experienced Somalie187 is but, I wouldn't like him to end up with a setup that is a handful for his skill level. IDK if he has experience with a Fwd that is easy to rotate vs the oem settings that understeers. Canyon sounds scarry if the set up overwelms the driving skills.

Don't over look your brakes a k20aX is more powerful than your current 70whp so the brakes will genarate more heat & could lock up & lead to bad things.
 

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how much toe-in do you run out back? any in the front? im going to break out the strings this weekend and im trying to bounce my set ups off what other people are doing. my car rotates but not until after it plows right on turn in. i get a split second of over steer right at turn in, then it comes flying around like a top. i just want to get rid of the initial plow.
 

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I think my toe is at factory settings to minimize tire wear cause last year I was doing lots of daily driving when I was on the dunlop star spec. I'll look for the aligment sheet to confirm.
 

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Yeah I'm pretty sure that toe is factory. Cause I told the guy to use the oem settings for toe & caster we just pulled the front LCA a bit but still was under spec from what I remember. but -2.3f & -1.5r camber.
 

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What bushes are you guys using, and on what components?
Hardrace hard rubber complete integra bushing kit, oem DC2 LCA but rear camber & toe spherical
Amr custom coilovers 550lbs Front 650lbs rear
Rear Asr subframe with 21mm itr swaybar & cheap ebay rear strut bar
Front LS swaybar & tower: Benen tripod
Ktuned traction bar for little caster but under oem specs.
Front Junk2 camberkit :( but with the hardrace hard rubber bushings.
Camber -2.3front -1.5 rear
Kaaz lsd 1.5 way
Tires R888 225/45/15 on all 4 corners on 8" wide wheels.

I think that's it for me.

Oh most important: beat up EG6 chassis :)
 

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Progresive installs.
So far I'm happy with everything on the road but upgrading the engine's power by ~200whp from the last time I tracked it so let's see if I'm going to have do changes. So far 1st initial change will be 9" wide wheels up front & looking at downforce but, it's going to be a slow process car gonna be down for a while. Work owns me lately :(

Kaaz this one is not too aggressive compared to the one I had on the B-series with the upgraded clutch package so I like it.

I went auto-xing back to back oem k20a3 tranny vs the tsx gears with the kaaz & noticed the kaaz is harder to initiate the turn but quicker on the way out since it helped put the power down So I had to change my driving style entering a bit but @ 240whp 187wtq it was doing it's job fine. let's see how it reacts past 380whp & 270wtq.

@ the end of the year I had 274whp 202wtq but tracks were closed so couldn't test. & took the setup apart.
 
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