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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short I believe I drove the car with low oil to no oil after I shoveled snow off it about a month ago.

Car shut off on the way to work and had to be towed after i couldnt diagnose it. I had no money or help and I don't know much about cars. But I do know that it needs oil, my sensor was bad and i never checked oil manually. I assumed the bearings were toast.

I ran seafoam in the crankcase and gas tank about 3 weeks ago. It was still smoking today after I started it and idled. I've started it about 3 times since the seafoam and tried to drive twice. All times including today it will shut off after a driving in my apartment complex. Usually dies when i slow down to 0rpm. But the car feels weak and wants to die when driving. The idle was also terrible and lumpy all 3 times since the initial breakdown.

Today i found out the Spark plugs were trashed and one of the 4 had oil/gas on it. I just changed them out today with ngk iridium's and the car idled like when i bought it. A high idle but stable. Much better than the idle before I changed the plugs. It usually jumps idle when I'm late to change the oil, but still a higher than normal idle

Things I do know are a different problem. My vtec solenoid is oiled up and most likely had a gasket clogged.

My Airbox hose to the valve cover is broken off. So I guessing my whole intake is gunky

The fuel pump priming can be heard when I turn the key. Im just stunned after changing the plugs and how it purrs at idle and then when i take off it cuts out.

Any ideas what's the culprit

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Welcome to K20a.org Nawky!

Any ideas what's the culprit
According to your spark plugs, they didn't see much combustion, and that rest of combustion wasn't pretty successfully. They are dry but full of oil ash which is not burned. My suggestion is, try to catch a friend with an leakdown tester and test each cylinder. I wouldn't run the engine until the leakdown test confirmed the combustion chamber seals good. Otherwise my guessing it get more worth and maybe more expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you I will look into it.

I'm looking at a bare long block k24a1 replacement engine.

To do the swap into an ep3 all I need is a crv post mount?

I'm wondering if every single accessory I need for the engine will bolt to the k24a1 from the accessories already on my k20a3
 

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97 civic HX K24a
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Thank you I will look into it.

I'm looking at a bare long block k24a1 replacement engine.

To do the swap into an ep3 all I need is a crv post mount?

I'm wondering if every single accessory I need for the engine will bolt to the k24a1 from the accessories already on my k20a3
It’s basically the same engine. With the crv post mount it should be a plug and play affair, are you going to use the crv ecu? The 2.4 will require a good bit more fuel than the k20.
 

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How many miles? You may want to check engine timing. Chain could have stretched or bad tensioner causing the engine to jump time. I had an EP3 at one time with 150k miles. Tensioner gave out, jumped time and bent eight valves.
 

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It has 300k miles. I was trying and and everything because as another honda group told me my engine still rotates maybe I just got unlucky with the rod bearings?

I was hoping it was another problem. My cabin always smells like gas so I was thinking it's an air fuel problem probably

To the other guy I'm in the process of getting a leakdown test kit. Been broker than a joker last 2 weeks so I'm kinda slow on fixing this. That will change next 2 weeks tho
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...To the other guy I'm in the process of getting a leakdown test kit. Been broker than a joker last 2 weeks so I'm kinda slow on fixing this. That will change next 2 weeks tho
Very good.

I was trying and and everything because as another honda group told me my engine still rotates maybe I just got unlucky with the rod bearings?
That is guessing, we all just can guess. But we need facts to conclude any recognitions. First fact source is a leak down test. It doesn't need hard rotation of the engine like with an compression test. Once you rotate by hand you will get a feeling if a bearing got spun. And you will get to know if combustion chamber would be the source or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm buying a compression kit in the next 2 days. It took long but this car is turning into a possible project if I dont fix it my self or find cheap labor for a 500$ drop in engine.

Probably gonna get a new car car with my income tax and sale this if I dont keep interest. Thinking about a wrx or 04 05 ep3 or RSX type S or possibly 8th gen sedan si for cheap high miles
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Still interested in fixing this tho I'm gaining experience and it's fun.

I read a while ago that one spark plug that's bad can cause missfire in all cylinders possibly.

So I'm guessing it's the same with a coil? I just read today that a torn/ripped coil pack can cause p0300 missfire in all cylinders..?

Can anybody verify?

The coil bottom rubber gromet piece broke off. I didnt think nothing of it, but come to think of it the other 3 were not ripped off, I just put the coil on top or the piece and bolted it down.

Pic for reference but I'm asking is it possible that one bad ripped coil can cause my car to run crappy and stall? I was thinking of using my mom's k24 crv coil as a test
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. Her car is parked till Saturday when she gets her alternator fixed
 
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