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Hello.

Exactly. Take the male plug from the JDM engine harness. Then cut off the female harness from the JDM Charge harness. And lastly Install (via soldering) the male plug onto the JDM charge harness, yes all the wires should match. Don’t move any around

Result - JDM charge harness (now male) will plug into the RSX type S harness (female)
Thanks for the info! I'll knock this out tomorrow
 

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96 civic HX K24a
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really good bro thanks. Everything’s in, power steering works, ac works, no check engine lights, no leaks, no smoking. It’s a marvel I’m so happy. i drove her around for about 200 miles and she’s doing great. She’s down right now due to the seat being reupholstered but that’ll be fine soon !

Let me post some pics .
That’s great to hear man , a type r motor with ac and ps sounds like a great street car 👍
 

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Did you run into any issues with the heater hoses? Ktuned has been frustrating with this lol, they don't realize the euro r is more like a k24 than k20 so they sent a bunch of wrong parts.

Mounts were wrong, had to get the egk4 trans and rear brackets.

I recall seeing somewhere hasport said the egk4 mounts more the engine a bit more forward compared to the egk2 mounts. I'm wondering if this is the cause of the short heater hoses. They're about 2 inches too short currently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Did you run into any issues with the heater hoses? Ktuned has been frustrating with this lol, they don't realize the euro r is more like a k24 than k20 so they sent a bunch of wrong parts.

Mounts were wrong, had to get the egk4 trans and rear brackets.

I recall seeing somewhere hasport said the egk4 mounts more the engine a bit more forward compared to the egk2 mounts. I'm wondering if this is the cause of the short heater hoses. They're about 2 inches too short currently.
Haha. Yea, those k tuned heater hoses are 1 inch too short. I bought and ran into some issues myself. I complained to the company but they wouldn’t accept a refund and actually blamed it on me. Just use custom hoses from autozone until you find a solution. If you do find a clean aftermarket company please let me know!

yeah the egk4 are the ones you need. I posted my part list in the first post in the thread, i wish you saw it before, could of saved you a lot of time

that’s a good theory but how can it be true, if the passenger mount from the egk2 and egk4 is the same ? That mount certainly didn’t move.....
 

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Haha. Yea, those k tuned heater hoses are 1 inch too short. I bought and ran into some issues myself. I complained to the company but they wouldn’t accept a refund and actually blamed it on me. Just use custom hoses from autozone until you find a solution. If you do find a clean aftermarket company please let me know!

yeah the egk4 are the ones you need. I posted my part list in the first post in the thread, i wish you saw it before, could of saved you a lot of time

that’s a good theory but how can it be true, if the passenger mount from the egk2 and egk4 is the same ? That mount certainly didn’t move.....
Yeah I just finished sorting that problem out actually.. turns out when you select the cl7 engine and trans on the ktuned swap package page it only allows you to select the egk2 kit. Since the cl7 came from an accord it's got k24 mounting points even though it's a k20. Ktuned had hasport send replacement parts which ended up just being the rear engine bracket and trans mount bracket from The egk4 kit designed for accord/tsx trans. The passenger side bracket is identical and the mount bushings are all the same regardless, just different brackets. The motor is now mounted perfectly thankfully lol

Regarding the engine placement I'll have to dig up the thread I found that info on.. someone from hasport actually mentioned the slight difference in where the engine sits with the newer kits. I'm not sure either how they would pull that off with the same passenger bracket.

EDIT: I found where I read the position differences, but I misread and that is for the EKK1 > EKK2 mounts.. EKK2 moves the engine back a couple of inches, so disregard what I was saying there lol, I read it wrong. That negates my theory on the heater hoses being correct at one point then mounts causing them to be too short. May still be the case, but I can't confirm that yet.
 

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One other question, I didn't see you mention anywhere if you used a VSS converter or not. What did you do for that? I'm under the impression the speedometer won't work as is with this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
One other question, I didn't see you mention anywhere if you used a VSS converter or not. What did you do for that? I'm under the impression the speedometer won't work as is with this setup.
sorry bro i was taking a social media break. (I know this isn’t social media lol)

Correct. Your rpm will work fine.

for the speedometer - i used a dakota digital speed converter. Cause the 05 transmission uses a high frequency signal. It’s nice cause you can tune it with Bluetooth once it’s all hooked up. It’s about $100 bucks. Don’t forget - you have to do something to plug. I can help you look it up , just let me know. Just look up the k tuned instructions and you’ll know what i mean

k tuned also sells one , but i don’t think it’s programmable.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Very nice. Are you going to lower it or is it already scratching the street with the oil pan?
How did the Wine taste at Rosenthal's (very German name :))? Is this in CAL in one of the Wine plant areas?

haha. I’m waiting to put some miles on it. Then I’m going to change the oil and install the ktuned oil pan. Then i can lower it more.

this was taken in Malibu, California
 

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Thanks for this thread SpaceSI - it has been really helpful as I am doing this same swap in my EK. Where did you mount the Dakota Digital speedo converter? Somewhere closer to the VSS or inside the cabin? I would think it would be easiest to splice it in by the transmission where the plug has to be converted.
 

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Thanks for this thread SpaceSI - it has been really helpful as I am doing this same swap in my EK. Where did you mount the Dakota Digital speedo converter? Somewhere closer to the VSS or inside the cabin? I would think it would be easiest to splice it in by the transmission where the plug has to be converted.
I used the ktuned one and mounted it in the cabin under the glove box. Not sure on the dakota one but the ktuned needed wired at the speed signal junction where it splits off to 2 wires. That's about a foot up the harness from the ecu connector so it made sense to keep it inside
 

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In these instructions from an old Hybrid Racing VSS converter, they suggest splicing in close to the connection at the transmission. But in the K-Tuned instructions it explicitly states "The K-Tuned VSS converter was designed to be installed on the interior of the car where the ecu plugs into the engine harness. Do not install this unit in the engine bay." I wonder if it has something to do with them being designed differently for signal processing reasons or if it is due to tolerance for heat/moisture/humidity etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Hi Everyone, I just want to add some more instructions for those of you who are using a digital speed converter. I originally ran the dakota digital between the VSS signal (a18 engine side) and the VSS wire AND BOTH VSS input wire. What do i mean? I ran the dakota digital for ECU and Dash inputs. I ran the dakota digital before the A18 splits way up behind the blower. But I kept getting a check engine light for VSS. The dakota digital was too slow for the ECU input.

Related parts - cl7 transmission (tsx accord), 05+ VSS sensor, k tuned or dakota digital speed converter, hondata pro, 02-04 rsx type S harness

Pre install - This solution assumes you are running a 05+ VSS sensor, and an 02-04 rsx harness. You should have already shaved both sides of the clip off your 05 VSS sensor. Removed the plastic insulator and clip inside the VSS plug (harness side). And from the 02-04 harness plug itself, switch BLK/GRD to from location 1 to 3. BLK/YEL power from 2 to 1. and WHT/GRN signal from 3 to 2. 1 2 3 refers to the 3 wires in the 02-04 VSS harness plug, if you were looking at the open side of the plug, with the plastic tab facing up.

Solution - Just run the digital converter for the dash. Find where the A18 split and find the wire that runs to the dash/cluster, leave some space so you can work on the wire, and cut it. You will run your dakota digital here, so it only affects the dash/tachometer. I used output 4 on the Dakota digital converter. The remaining wire should run down on to A18 on your ECU. Now on your Kpro settings, under MISC, under speed sensor, select Counter driven speed sensor (2005-2006 RSX TSX S2000). Again, no digital converter for your ECU VSS input.
 
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