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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
whats up guys! i know i dont post much, but i have no k20 to talk about, yet :wink: so when i first got on this site I thought I saw a post about the mods or somebody being able to source motors for us. well in the next 1-2 months im going to hopefully have money for one. I dont wanna pay the going rate of 5500-6000 for the motor, tranny and ecu alone. on ebay, yeah i know EBAY, i found suprising deals on k20's. if you will, go to ebay and type k20a and there are under 20 results, so dont worry about extensive searching. 2 are going for under 5k shipped and one seems to be super legit as it is still in the car with gauge cluster and all to confirm mileage, big plus! on top of that the sellers have thousands of sales with high 90 positive percentile feedback. so what would you guys say about going that route instead of paying almost 6k? can anybody on here help me find one complete and LOW miles for cheaper than ebay sellers? again at this particular time i do not have the money, but will be serious shortly.
thanks
 

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k20spooner said:
anybody, nikos?
6k???? That's insane. I have a k20a3 with trans and ECU pulled from an obliterated RSX and I even got the seats, cluster I can take snaps of, the whole dash etc. Hell, I'd sell damn near everything I just named for 5.5k - before shipping. And I cover the engine for 6 months against any premature damage!! Engine has 7k on it (and I can take pics of the dash, the car, the numbers on the block and the matching numbers on the car to prove it).


Engine trans, ECU and harness with a 6mo warranty on the powertrain- I'll let it go for $4300 and if you're East of Ohio to NJ - that'll include shipping. If not, allow another $200-$300
 

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doomsday said:
6k???? That's insane. I have a k20a3 with trans and ECU pulled from an obliterated RSX and I even got the seats, cluster I can take snaps of, the whole dash etc. Hell, I'd sell damn near everything I just named for 5.5k - before shipping. And I cover the engine for 6 months against any premature damage!! Engine has 7k on it (and I can take pics of the dash, the car, the numbers on the block and the matching numbers on the car to prove it).


Engine trans, ECU and harness with a 6mo warranty on the powertrain- I'll let it go for $4300 and if you're East of Ohio to NJ - that'll include shipping. If not, allow another $200-$300
To doomsday:

Don;t take this the wrong way, but I am not sure if you realise the difference between the 4 k series motors.

The k20a that comes from Japanese Integra type R can be found for an average price $5500 shipped. I have seen it $4900 shipped and $6000 shipped for the same swap so that is why I say $5500

Then the type S k20a2 swap goes for average $3500 shipped. I have seen it for $4200 and as low as $2800..

The k20a2 type s swap and the k20a from japan have different power but that can be fixed... The major difference is the LSD tranny that cost around $2000 on its own.

Then comes the k20a3 engine from a Civic Si that has about 40 HP less and doesn;t have real VTEC like the k24a. That motor has a block that looks like the k20a block but has no oil squirters and smaller water passages. If someone is planning to do a complete block rebuilt with custom sleeves, pistons, I guess it would not matter but for building the 2.4L block is better anyway.

Then we have the k24a motor. The tranny at this time cannot be used by the k series mounts that use the k20a, k20a2 and k20a3 tranny. Because there are more than half a million cars (accord, CR-V, element) with that motor, it is really easy to find and it cheap. It doesn;t have real I vtec as well, like the k20a3 but the torque makes up for it. With hondata it makes around 160 Hp at the wheels and 160 torque. Of course it doesn;t rev as high as the a, a2, a3. The price of the k24a is around $1000-$1500 tops.

IMPORTAUTOSALVAGE.com has like 6 k24a longlbocks ofr around $1500 each. The also have k20a2 full swaps for $3800+ I believe. At this time they do not carry any k20a but they have plans to import them.

Because, I realized that it would be hard to be able on my own to guarantee the condition of engines and swaps, when I first started the site I decided not to sell any swaps on my own because as you know when you buy a lot of engines it is really hard to cheack them all... A compression check and leak down test wil not tell youy everyhting and the trannies cannot be examined on the spot.

That is why I chose not to deal with that business.. THe engines swap business is complicated.. Too many JDM importers have screwed over people.... I have read plenty of horror stories in honda-tech.

THat is why I recommend importautosalvage.com for USDM motors because most people in the honda community know about them and they have no complaints.

Therefore although I can tell you my opinion on a swap you might find, I cannot really suggest anyone for k20a JDM swaps at this time. Just make sure that you take all the necessary precautions.

:)
 

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Nikos, lol, yes, I definitely understand the difference. You post does remind me of what people used to say about the integra LS engines though, and there's still many of those making Vtec numbers easily.

As for people getting screwed with import engine sales - I couldnt' agree more. Not to mention how many engines people get that either aren't what they thought they ordered, or completely shot from abuse and/or over the mileage that the retailer said it was. Me personally, I wouldn't mess with the JDM stuff. Can't see the sense in spending that kind of money when you can put it into your USDM and make far better numbers.

But on a seperate note, remember that the post creator stated K20. didn't specify what model, so I thought I'd add some input :D
 

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I was just notified that I may be able to get ahold of a whole Type S with just REAR damage 35K miles.

WHOLE CAR for 5500.00 plus shipping from NC....

Im working on getting pics now for it.....

Let me know if interested...

Clean title.... Kid wrecked it and bought it back from insurance co...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah my bad, i typed k20a for the ebay thing, thought youd get it. sorry for the confusion. anyways, that whole rsx is tempting and awile ago when i first wanted a k20 i wanted a A2. but i like the k20r much better for the obvious reasons. i really want a car with a lsd tranny, been threw 2 b series w/o a lsd tranny. whats your thoughts of the k20a2, those members with them? there are more hassles with the usdm motors though like with the immbolizers, correct? again i appreciate the rsx stuff, but if anybod ycan get a k20r for a good price lmk. also, your thoughts on the sellers of the k20r's on ebay? yay or nay?
 

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My personal advice man - go Kfrank. K24 with type-S head. Me personally, I wouldn't go with the 6 speed because the ratios are TOO short and cause far too much torque multiplication if you plan on doing any mods. I mean the straight K20a2 with the 6 speed spins a ton as it is. Why go more torque and make it worse.

Me personally, I'd go k24 (who cares if you can't rev it to 10-billion if you already made that hp at 6000) with the 5 speed trans. Yes, 5 speed. Go Type-S head and call it a day when you blow past the guys with the JDM R's who are spending literally twice the money to make your same HP and less torque - AND have to rev higher to get it. And your compression is still a full 2+ points lower. Imagine if you upped it...
 

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Here's a basic breakdown of how the torque multiplication would work with the stock RSX-S engine/trans, vs the JDM R/trans, vs the K-frank/5/6 speed. Man, I hope I didn't do all these calculations for nothing...

04 RSX-S: 142ft/[email protected] (05+ is [email protected])

1st Gear Ratio 3.267:1 - 463.91 ft/lbs
2nd Gear Ratio 2.130:1 - 302.46 ft/lbs
3rd Gear Ratio 1.517:1 - 215.41 ft/lbs
4th Gear Ratio 1.147:1 - 162.87 ft/lbs
5th Gear Ratio 0.921:1 - 130.78 ft/lbs
6th Gear Ratio 0.738:1 - 104.80 ft/lbs

Final Drive Ratio 4.389:1 (05+ is 4.765)

*Combo above is known to spin into middle of 3rd without slicks.



Integra Type-R: 152ft/[email protected] <----damn that's a hell of a hike.

1st Gear Ratio 3.266 - 496.43 ft/lbs
2nd Gear Ratio 2.130 - 323.76 ft/lbs
3rd Gear Ratio 1.517 - 230.58 ft/lbs
4th Gear Ratio 1.212 - 184.22 ft/lbs
5th Gear Ratio 0.972 - 147.74 ft/lbs
6th Gear Ratio 0.780 - 118.56 ft/lbs

Final drive - 4.764


K-Frank (162ft/lbs @ 3600<----perfect midrange peak) with Type S trans:

1st Gear Ratio 3.267:1 - 529.25 ft/lbs (65.3 more than Type S)
2nd Gear Ratio 2.130:1 - 345.06 ft/lbs (42.6 more than Type S)
3rd Gear Ratio 1.517:1 - 245.75 ft/lbs (30.34 more than Type S)
4th Gear Ratio 1.147:1 - 185.81 ft/lbs (22.94 more than Type S)
5th Gear Ratio 0.921:1 - 149.20 ft/lbs (18.42 more than Type S)
6th Gear Ratio 0.738:1 - 119.56 (14.76 more than Type S)

Final Drive Ratio 4.389:1 (05+ is 4.765)

*Combo listed above will need slicks for the first 4 gears easily. Also produces more torque in literally every gear than a stock type-R which has higher ratios AND a higher final drive.


K-Frank 162ft/[email protected] with RSX 5-speed Trans:

1st Gear Ratio 3.267:1 - 529.25 ft/lbs (65.3 more than Type S)
2nd Gear Ratio 1.880:1 - 304.56 ft/lbs (2.1 more than Type S) <------maches RSX-S with a much taller gear + wider powerband = more MPH AND more acceleration.
3rd Gear Ratio 1.212:1 - 196.34 ft/lbs (19.07 less than Type S)
4th Gear Ratio 0.921:1 - 149.202 ft/lbs (13.67 less than Type S)
5th Gear Ratio 0.738:1 - 119.57 ft/lbs (11.226 less than Type S)


*No need for slicks after about middle of second and STILL has a wider powerband than either the RSX-S OR the ITR so you'll be going a higher MPH after every shift. Keep in mind that both the 6 speed cars are making their peak torque by revving 2400 to 3400rpm LATER than the k24 5-speed and peak HP's by revving another 2100-3100rpm higher than you for nothing. You get equal HP and greater torque much sooner than they do and don't need to wind up nearly as high as them and STILL shift less, lol. And you've still got 2 points less compression. :twisted:

Final Drive Ratio 4.389:1


Now keep in mind that shorter ratios = lower MPH/gear and most importantly, more time shifting through gears = less time accelerating. I'll also say that the 4000+RPM powerband spread (peak torque and peak HP) is absolutely phenominal. That makes it nearly impossible not to be in the powerband and you don't have to rev it sky high (unlike the RSX-S and the ITR). I've never owned a single car (even heavily modified) that could match that spread. Also, when looking at the TSX's (2.4) gears - you see that it's taller in all gears, even though the car is much heavier than the RSX and the TSX makes Type-S power with CR-V torque. Guarantee the 5 speed would get not only more traction, but also MPH higher in the quarter.


Cliff's Notes: 6-speed 2.0L engines do far more work to make identical HP and less torque than 5-speed 2.4L engines. And the 2.4 still has a full 2 points less compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
damn man thanks for all the ratios and what not, too tired aswell to study that, but i do understand your point. ill look into it tomorrow.
thanks abunch
 

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doomsday said:
lol, okay. If anyone finds the ITR ratios, post em up and I'll add em to the comparison.
Gear ratio k20a JDM:

1st - 3.266
2nd - 2.130
3rd - 1.517
4th - 1.212
5th - 0.972
6th - 0.780
Reverse R - 3.587
Final drive - 4.764
 

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nikos said:
doomsday said:
lol, okay. If anyone finds the ITR ratios, post em up and I'll add em to the comparison.
Gear ratio k20a JDM:

1st - 3.266
2nd - 2.130
3rd - 1.517
4th - 1.212
5th - 0.972
6th - 0.780
Reverse R - 3.587
Final drive - 4.764
BRB, gonna make the neccessary edits to the prior post. Marginal differences between ITR and 04 RSX-S - but differences none the less...
 

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just getting back to k20spooner..looking for a type S..
i got one. i got the whole front end. complete:
motor, tranny, ecu, shifter box, harness..
$3500 + shipping
i can provide pics if u like..its still in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yeah i will probably talk to leo soon, i do alot of business with him. if you check the ek section my car is in alot of it.
thanks and good luck with your motor :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yeah i have been boi, check my join date, just 2 months after you 8) and yeah i will win shows biatch. ill be on the track some day, buts its my DD that is why i dont want to drive it hard :wink:
 
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