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Discussion Starter #1
Soooooooo

I have an 06 type-S with 45,000 miles on it. Competition stage 4 clutch was installed in April and has worked fine up until now.

We just replaced my transmission last month with a used one that was completely mint inside.

I was driving home on Sunday and went to go into third and it didn't want to go in, so I was like WTF. It finally went in and I continued my drive home. So I park it and go in and take a nap, go to work and it does the same thing in every gear, but at random times. It makes it hard to get into gear sometimes it locks me out completly. It's like the clutch isn't engaging.

So I take it home from work and park it, start it up this morning after it sat for two days. It goes into gear perfectly when the car is off, start it up, goes into gear, take it out , won't go back in.

So I'm in my drive way and I can't get my car into any gear, so I turn it off, put it in gear and re-start the car and it works for a little for me to get out onto the road and drive.......needless to say I had to restart the car 3 times on the way to my buddies shop and put it back in first with the car off.

So we thought maybe the clutch needs re bled, so I limp it to the shop and we bleed the clutch. Still does it. The pedal has a weird feeling sort of like a hicup in it also. I have no idea wtf it is. We are guess Clutch Master cylnder. IDK the tranny is mint inside when my friend ( who knows honda transmissions like the back of his hand) tore it apart so I know it's not the tranny. So it's definitly clutch related. IDK WTF BBQ I just wanna drive my damn car.

I read about problems people were having involving CMC's and also about people needing an extra washer with the Comp stg 4 clutch. So anyone have any ideas? I've searched my ass off and can't find anything.

Please help guys.

Thanks
 

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i'm not sure dude but, you said that it has a hickup in the padal feel or a blank spot which sound like to me it might be your pressure plate acting up
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It just sucks because I JUST had the engine out lol
 

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dont feel bad! i did my swap a while back and left the stock clutch and it was bad so i had to go back in and tear it back down to put the stage 4 in it
 

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i had a problem kinda like this..it ended up being my clutch. but i was reading something similar like this in a thread on here, they just went and got a washer from home depot and put it in and it worked..i don't know really...
 

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the washer trick does work if your not getting the correct engagement or disengagement.. but i had this same problem in my si and it turned out to be a piece had broken off the clutch hub right where the the spring is ... i got lucky that it did'nt do more damage..i did have to replace everything from how bad it had beat the crap out of the flywheel and sheered the clutch disc. i have to use the washers on the pivot ball even with a stage 2 ACT clucth just so i get enough pedal since there is no adjustment on the si ...only the little bit you get from the MC, which is nowhere near enough..good luck hope it turns out better than it did for me..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sooo hmmm the problem seemed to be that a spring popped off the clutch.

WTF lol

We had this bitch finished in 8 hours lol













Luckily my buddy had an extra exedy full face clutch sitting around, so I swapped that in and put the Competition pressure plate on. Runs great now lol.
 

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So the Pressure plate is compatible with a Exedy disc? good to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I drove the car around for 5 minutes and it drives fine so I'm assuming that means it's compatible lol
 

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the spring breaking out, was the same thing that i had happen .. mine broke out of the stock exeddy on my 07 si... i did the clutch myself thinking honda wanted way to much to do a clutch, when they said i was looking at $1600 to $1800 to do the job, or $1150 to do the job with my parts.. so after finding a friend that new a guy with a lift oppted to do it myself.. when i found the broken pieces, i was pissed and strait to honda i went.. they tried to say that was due to driver error, that i must have down shiffted from 6th to 3rd.. so i explained to the dealership owner, after throwing a fit with the service manager that unless i had been standing there witth the rest of the motor in pieces, i was not buying the down shift theory.. i showed him the disc that had been removed and after explaining that an over rev that high would blow the motor , not to say screw the clutch at that point.. i now have a complete, pressure plate, disc and flywheel... all compliments of honda..they know they have problems with the 6 speed tranny and try and push blame on the drivers, never on the known problems.. i had 61000 on the clutch and assumed it was just worn from spirited driving. once opened i was able to see where problems begin..if you look at the position of the shift fork , it has a misalignment from the factory, now look where the pivot ball extends in reference to the shift fork, now take an aftermarket clutch with a heavy duty p.plate and look how it barely disengages when the pedal is fully presses to the floor... well guess what one of those super techs at honda built the tranny around the clutch of their choice not thinking that hey we may wanna use something other than oem... now sorry for the ramble but here is the point, the engage an disengage point for disc to flywheel on the stock system with a light duty p.plate is only 1.385 mil, therfore leaving hardly anything for slip factor.. now step up to a stage 2 or higher plate and the added presure has almost nothing for release which causes the disc to always have some room for a constant contact.. now you heat up and where parts faster ... this is why adding a 5 mil washer packing behind the pivot ball stud corrects poor geometry. a 5 mil pack will give the needed area to be released out of harms way..my theory that the spring broke was due to a almost permanent contact point with a stock p.plate in my case, when checking the adjustment on my master cylinder rod from the factory it was almost maxed out to the end, therfore not leaving much for pedal or for travel on the throw out bearing. if you look at the clutch disc on the FW side and see a contant wear on the spring retainer walls its not getting a full release and as they wear down they will soon let the spring break free.. in some cases we get lucky and only do clutch damage and some cases the whole trans can become garbage.. just some knowledge of these trannys you may wanna know prior to making the same mistake some of us have.. it had takin me 3 clutches and 2 flywheels to figure this out.. now running an ACT...HDSS clutch an prolite flywheel, last was an fx 400 clutch masters with prolite fw which i didn't even get through the break in before blowing the master cylinder...300 miles later disc was shot ... i had to figure it out the hard way so hope this helps those nof you in need of a clutch.. ACT has been in for 1700 miles now and no problems what so ever with the added washers to the pivot ball..sorry for the rambling..i just knew i spent alot more than i needed to before figuring out that these cars just have bad geometry...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info man, we also added a washer to the pivot ball while it was out, just to be safe.
 

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Thanks a lot for bringing this to our attention miketat594!! A heads up is always appreciated here. And I'd also like to welcome you to K20a.org. I hope you'll look into becoming a supporter (only $25). We all appreciate the information very much!! Kevin:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey now, I started the thread :cry: wheres my props lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
hahah thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ehh lol cops are cops
 
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